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ikay

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Everything posted by ikay

  1. I don't think that replacing the existing resistors with different values would make much difference. Can you try an experiment and test to see if the active/passive switch still pops with both pickups in the 'off' position? Then test again with both pups in the parallel and series positions - is the pop louder in the series position?
  2. According to this diagram the EQ ON/OFF switch already has a 470k resistor across the input and a 47k resistor across the output which should prevent popping ...
  3. Adding a 1Mohm resistor between signal and ground on the switch seems to be a common fix. Can you post a pic (or wiring diagram) of your active/passive switch?
  4. Hi B.Flat, I'm afraid this is a bit beyond my tech abilities. I had a similar problem with a BB1100 which made an annoying pop when switching from passive to active. A common issue with that particular bass and apparently something to do with how the battery is wired and/or floating output signals or what have you! As a work around I just turned down the volume on the bass before switching which did the job but I never fixed the issue itself. There's a short thread about it below. I don't understand why adding your PUP switches would have any affect on the active/passive switch though, that is a bit wierd. Hopefully someone will be along soon who knows more than me (not too hard lol)!
  5. Thanks, and that is very light for a five. The back of the neck looks much darker than maple in the pics, I wondered if it was rosewood?
  6. Wow. Can you please provide a bit more info: - what are the neck and fingerboard woods? - what's the scale length? - is it silver or white? (sorry, it's my eyes) - what's the exact weight? Thanks
  7. Ah OK, then yes, your ON/OFF/ON DPDT switches will do the job exactly as you say with the middle position being off. Make sure you check the pin connections before wiring as not all DPDT switches are the same.
  8. Series/parallel usually only requires a single ON/ON DPDT. One position leaves the pickups in standard parallel configuration, the other position switches them to run in series. Is this what you're trying to achieve or are you trying to do something else? I'm not sure why you need a switch for each pickup. Might be an idea to post the wiring diagram that you're using so others can take a look.
  9. I think the answer is no. They made an MIJ in black/rosewood but not with a maple board as far as I can see.
  10. Total price from Mouser shipped to UK is £19.85 using the link above. The small print on the checkout page says that this includes duty and customs fees which is pretty good I think.
  11. Here's a link to the Hartke 5000 manual - http://www.samsontech.com/site_media/legacy_docs/5000_7000_manual.pdf On page 9 under 'Setting Up' (para 2) it says: "If you are only using a single bass cabinet or multiple cabinets with the same diameter speakers, place the switch in the “Mono” position and connect the cabinet(s) to any of the four 1/4” unbalanced Speaker output connectors on the rear panel." As long as the cab is rated at 4 ohms or higher it looks like one cab will be fine.
  12. Retrovibe sell an SR5 look-alike bridge but it's not clear from the description whether it's a drop in replacement or not: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Classic-MusicMan-style-5-string-High-Mass-Bass-Guitar-Bridge-in-Black-UK-Stock/1693125050?iid=272722239047&chn=ps Would be worth contacting EBMM and asking if they can supply a genuine replacement.
  13. I had something similar before and it turned out to be a loose tuner. Pluck the strings and then touch each tuner in turn to see if the buzzing stops.
  14. Hmm, it's an odd one but sounds more to do with the venue than anything systemically wrong with the bass.
  15. I put the serial number into this Gibson date decoder and it says 1976 - https://www.guitarinsite.nl/serienummers-gibson_eng.php Fabulous looking bass!
  16. First thing I'd do is check it again at home or in the rehearsal room to see if the buzz is still there.
  17. How refreshing to see something different for a change! What's the scale length please, it looks to be a bit shorter than the Mustang? Any sound demos?
  18. A piezo would usually be more suitable for bronze strings I think. I'm pretty sure the Lace is suitable for regular steel core strings. Here are some more details: Designed especially for bass guitar this new passive Lace Sensor bass pickup has an "Ultra Slim" profile that is only 5/16th tall in height. The height allows almost endless adaptations for either acoustic bass or solid body bass. Single design size allows for 4 or 5 string bass guitars. The USAB Sensor can be surface mounted either with wood screws or a mar resistant 3M adhesive tape that is provided with the pickup. Simply slide the pickup under the strings for installation. No routing or cutting is required. The USAB comes with a high quality cable and female end pin jack. The pickup jack can be permanently mounted if so desired. The pickup is humbucking in design and features no noise operation. The pickup consists of 2 Lace Sensor Micro Matrix Comb bobbins, and triple ceramic 8 magnets as part of this new design. It is passive in design, but can be used without any problems with an active pre amp. Available: Black Matte Only. Position: Bridge, Neck Resistance: 15.5k Peak Frequency: 1800
  19. Lace Ultra Slim? - https://www.thomann.de/gb/lace_pickups_ultra_slim_bass_pickup_usab.htm Or a Shadow NanoMag - https://shadowelectronics.com/products/shadow-nanomag-pickup The Epiphone Zenith bass has a NanoMag fitted at the end of the fingerboard - http://www.epiphone.com/Products/Bass/Zenith.aspx
  20. I think the only preamp that will give you everything you need is the John EAst UNI-PRE: http://www.east-uk.com/pdf/uni-pre-features.pdf This gives you active/passive switching (the active path has an active blend and passive path has a passive blend) and the bass, mid and treble controls all have adjustable frequency centres so you can tweak to your taste.
  21. See pic below. On earlier (pre Flea) Stingrays (one on the right), the strings pulled noticeably to the left after the saddles to the holes in the tailpiece. On the 'Flea' bridge, the grooves in the saddles are shifted to the left and the whole bridge assembly has been moved a few mm to the right so that the string pull over the saddles is now straight. This results in the mutes no longer aligning with the strings.
  22. What don't you like about the stock preamp in the VM4? Knowing that might help with suggestions for a replacement.
  23. Here's one with £1.75 postage - https://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=225_226_293&products_id=3109
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