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I've not tried what you're suggesting but I'm intrigued by the idea. I've yet to find a dual coil pickup that genuinely has the same clear, crisp and open tone of a single coil but would be very interested to hear what the Jess Loureiro sounds like when you get it hooked up with the switching. A short demo would be great if you can.

Pre CBS decals were applied on top of the lacquer. Not sure of the exact year they started varnishing over the decal but if your replicating a 50s Fender then the decal was on top of the finish.

Ampeg casters are available from Fliptops in the US here - https://www.fliptops.net/catalog/cat-100025/feet-wheels Apparently they're 3" casters so other replacements of that size should work (although the mounting holes may not be the same).

I used Virtuoso cleaner/polish on an old Hofner nitro finish with very good results - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Virtuoso-Premium-Instrument-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0088Q50BM

Sounds like you did the right thing to whip it off rather than trying a spot repair. Good luck!

I'm sure you've googled it already but couple of links below for info. The fix really depends on what caused the fingerboard to lift in the first place - eg. glue starvation at that end of the fingerboard when it was built, excessive lifting force at that point due to the truss rod, bond weakened over time due to oils in wood etc. Spot repairs are possible but removal, re-prepping and re-bonding would be a more complete fix. I should point out that I have no experience of doing either myself! https://crimsonguitars.com/forum/guitar-repair-and-customisation/fretboard-separating-from-neck/

Excellent, well done!!

The wire and winding specs of a Jazz pickup changed in the 70s. This description of the Nordstrand NJ4 and optional 70s wind gives a bit more detail - https://nordstrandaudio.com/collections/4-string-jazz-bass-pickups/products/nj4-vintage-single-coil. Curious that your 75 reissue sounds so mellow and warm, a 70s Jazz is usually a bit more aggressive due to the different pickup wind and bridge pup position. Have you tried raising the pickups a bit? If you've got some leeway to do that (without introducing magnetic pull/warbling) it should add a bit more bite and grunt. Particularly the bridge pup, but raising the neck pup will also tighten up the sound.

The bridge looks right for a Patriot as does the truss cover and triangular string tree. Good buy!

Fairly common practice I think, my ACG has a thin black veneer between the body and top wood.

This thread suggests it's 4mm -

The wiring diagram below should help.

I can't find any off the shelf but you could easily get one made. Tim at Scratch-It - http://www.originalscratchplates.com/ made a custom pickguard for me, very reasonably priced and I was very pleased with the result. I provided Tim with the pickguard material that I wanted to use along with a pattern and a few days later voila! You can buy single-ply vintage white pickguard material from ebay here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Vanson-315mm-x-240mm-Scratchplate-Pickguard-Material-for-Electric-Guitars/111817601979?var=410802222888&epid=1466518721&hash=item1a08d933bb:g:JPoAAOSw5VFWO7Gi. Just use your existing black pickguard as a pattern.

A Rob Allen Mouse is a fabulous little bass (30" scale) if an acoustic/upright like tone is what you're after. I love mine, it's a cheeky little thing, the sort of bass that makes you smile when you pick it up! There are two for sale on BC at the moment which is a very rare occurrence:

The Fender neck finish is most likely to be poly rather than nitro. Looks like a very light tinted poly over sealed wood, but getting an exact match may be tricky.

Um, no single answer to what you're asking I don't think. Part of it is to do with how you're bass is set up and part is down to the construction of the strings. Also how you play. For example, having a higher break angle over the bridge (or nut - via a string tree or more windings on tuning post to push string down) will make strings feel a little stiffer (ie. less compliant). If you play with a light touch you may get away with a very low action and using medium (or even light) tension strings. Some general construction factors affecting string tension/stiffness include: - Strings with a hex core will generally feel stiffer than a round core (they may be the same tension but will feel stiffer) - Pressure wound strings will generally be higher tension than regular round wounds of the same gauge - Flat wound strings will generally be higher tension than regular round wounds of the same gauge These are just basic guidelines, the best thing is to try out a few different strings and see what works for you. From what Ped says, the Elixirs sound to be slightly higher tension than some other strings so they may be worth a try. As for where Ernie Ball 45-105s sit in the 'tension spectrum', I'd say pretty much in the middle.

Ernie Ball don't provide string tension measurements but this D'Addario string tension guide may be of some help - http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf See P10 for Nickel Roundwound Bass strings. The tensions for the equivalent gauges to yours would be: 45 - 42.8lbs, 65 - 51.3lbs, 85 - 48.4lbs, 105 - 40.3 lbs = total 182.8lbs. Ernie Ball string construction (core/windings etc) may be slightly different to D'Addario so won't have exactly the same tension as this but should be pretty close. 45-105 is what Fender use as a factory fitted string gauge so it's a sort of de facto 'standard' as far as string gauge/tension goes. As a rough guide, 40-100s would be considered 'light', 50-110s would be considered 'heavy'. Of course the exact gauges/tensions and combinations used do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.