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The higher frequencies are attenuated so 'less present' in the signal rather than lost altogether. Active eq will be able to compensate for this to some extent but the basic signal from the pickup will be darker so the eq will have less headroom for adding extra sparkle.

Generally speaking the higher the pot value/resistance the brighter the tone. A dual 500k pot would be darker than the original single 500k vol plus 3-way switch configuration (2 x 500k in parallel = 250k). A dual 250k pot would be darker still (2 x 250k in parallel = 125k). In passive mode I'm sure you would hear a darkening of the tone. In active mode probably less so or not at all (and you can boost the EQ anyway if needed).

I tried to replace the bridge on my CV with a standard Fender 5 screw bridge and the two outer holes were too far out to work without filling and redrilling. The CV bridge is annoyingly non-standard in that respect! I left the bridge as it was in the end. It's a fairly hefty bridge anyway so I doubt that a Badass would add much in the way of tone. The only reason I wanted to change it was because I prefer standard 19mm string spacing to the CV 20mm.

With open strings, and plucking directly over a pickup in the P position, the dominant harmonics are a 1st octave, perfect 5th and 2nd octave. But the harmonic content of a note changes depending on the LH fretting position. It crossed my mind that it might be some sort of neck/body resonance causing the G/D string issue, but that would only affect certain notes/frequencies, it wouldn't be a general effect up and down the fingerboard. I had something similar on my Hofner Club bass where the D string (Hofner flats) had a sort of hollow ringing sound around the 6th fret. Eventually traced it to the tailpiece which had a sympathetic vibration at that frequency. A small block of rubber carefully positioned under the tailpiece to damp the resonance fixed that.

What strings are you using? If the strings are new they should mellow out with a bit more playing and the octave harmonic will be less noticeable. The octave is a natural harmonic anyway so it sounds like the G and D strings are just a little more lively than the A and E. Rolling back the tone a bit may help.

Looks a bit odd but refreshing to see something different and I love how it sounds, particularly the fretless - [url="http://www.gillettguitars.co.uk/video"]http://www.gillettguitars.co.uk/video[/url]

I think your best bet is going be to file some standard brass saddles down to size to get the string spacing you need.

I think you're right and it's the standard bridge that's making it look different. Have to admit I wish they'd just reissued it as a regular Mustang. Had a play on one recently and the soloed P was the sound I kept going back to. The added J didn't do anything for me. Cool little bass though, I do like it.

Does anyone know if the new Mustang PJ body shape is exactly the same as a regular Mustang? To my eyes it looks a little slimmer or elongated but that could be an optical illusion.

With a pot that turns too freely I sometimes fit a bit of foam under the knob to stiffen up the action. A little donut of soft foam about 1/4" thick usually does the trick. Take knob off, put foam donut over shaft/bushing, reattach knob, done. If on the other hand I've completely misunderstood what you're after please treat this suggestion with the contempt it deserves!

Whether I use my P or J depends more on how I'm feeling than what I'm playing! I use them both in a variety of settings ranging from jazz/swing to funk/disco and they both do the job. The J does deliver a bit more snap and growl but, on the rare occasions that I get any good comments on my bass sound it's usually the P. There's something sublimely 'right' about a good P bass.

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1507553943' post='3386280'] If 2fo is 60hz then the corner does look to be at about 40hz. [/quote] Yes, 2fo is an octave up from the cut off frequency.

Looking at the blue high pass line on the Linkwitz-Riley freq chart below, if the cutoff freq ('fo') is 30hz then I'd estimate the corner freq to be around 40hz. So this should give you what you're after.

An OLP MM style body may be your best bet, here's a link showing a few currently for sale - [url="http://www.for-sale.co.uk/olp-bass"]http://www.for-sale.co.uk/olp-bass[/url]

My P bass setup below for comparison (all measurements taken the same way as yours). Probably not a lot of use in scientific terms as all basses are unique and there are many factors that affect tone and playability. The setup below is the result of several years of playing and fine tuning this particular bass and works well for my playing style (mainly finger style jazz/funk/pop). Bass: 1973 P with original pickup Fingerboard: Rosewood Relief: just a smidge (I like a fairly straight neck) Strings: DR Sunbeams 40 / 60 / 80 / 100 String action at 17th fret (mm): G 3.7 / D 4.0 / A 4.0 / E 4.5 Height above pickup poles (mm): G 5.5 / D 6.0 / A 8.0 / E 6.0 This setup gives an even output across the strings (no weak G) and the tone is quite open and responsive to touch. One thing worth mentioning is that raising a pickup to compensate for a weak string isn't always the best thing. I find that lowering pickups and having a bit more air between the string and polepieces often results in a more even, open and fuller sound along with a wider range of playing dynamics.

What you've done is exactly as outlined in this FAQ on pole piece grounding (well done!) - [url="http://audereengineering.com/FAQ_PUMag_Gnd.htm"]http://audereengineering.com/FAQ_PUMag_Gnd.htm[/url]

It sounds like what you're hearing here is a stronger fundamental on the A string than the other strings. Generally speaking the dominant sound of a bass guitar string is the first harmonic which is an octave above the fundamental. Not sure why this would be though. Can you provide a link to an audio clip?

A 34" neck capoed on the second fret will give a scale length of about 30.3". Intonation should be fine, it's no different to just tuning down a tone but only playing from the second fret upwards. There's a handy online fret/scale calculator here - [url="http://www.buildyourguitar.com/resources/fretcalc/jscrptclc.htm"]http://www.buildyourguitar.com/resources/fretcalc/jscrptclc.htm[/url]