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Whether I use my P or J depends more on how I'm feeling than what I'm playing! I use them both in a variety of settings ranging from jazz/swing to funk/disco and they both do the job. The J does deliver a bit more snap and growl but, on the rare occasions that I get any good comments on my bass sound it's usually the P. There's something sublimely 'right' about a good P bass.

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1507553943' post='3386280'] If 2fo is 60hz then the corner does look to be at about 40hz. [/quote] Yes, 2fo is an octave up from the cut off frequency.

Looking at the blue high pass line on the Linkwitz-Riley freq chart below, if the cutoff freq ('fo') is 30hz then I'd estimate the corner freq to be around 40hz. So this should give you what you're after.

An OLP MM style body may be your best bet, here's a link showing a few currently for sale - [url="http://www.for-sale.co.uk/olp-bass"]http://www.for-sale.co.uk/olp-bass[/url]

My P bass setup below for comparison (all measurements taken the same way as yours). Probably not a lot of use in scientific terms as all basses are unique and there are many factors that affect tone and playability. The setup below is the result of several years of playing and fine tuning this particular bass and works well for my playing style (mainly finger style jazz/funk/pop). Bass: 1973 P with original pickup Fingerboard: Rosewood Relief: just a smidge (I like a fairly straight neck) Strings: DR Sunbeams 40 / 60 / 80 / 100 String action at 17th fret (mm): G 3.7 / D 4.0 / A 4.0 / E 4.5 Height above pickup poles (mm): G 5.5 / D 6.0 / A 8.0 / E 6.0 This setup gives an even output across the strings (no weak G) and the tone is quite open and responsive to touch. One thing worth mentioning is that raising a pickup to compensate for a weak string isn't always the best thing. I find that lowering pickups and having a bit more air between the string and polepieces often results in a more even, open and fuller sound along with a wider range of playing dynamics.

What you've done is exactly as outlined in this FAQ on pole piece grounding (well done!) - [url="http://audereengineering.com/FAQ_PUMag_Gnd.htm"]http://audereengineering.com/FAQ_PUMag_Gnd.htm[/url]

It sounds like what you're hearing here is a stronger fundamental on the A string than the other strings. Generally speaking the dominant sound of a bass guitar string is the first harmonic which is an octave above the fundamental. Not sure why this would be though. Can you provide a link to an audio clip?

A 34" neck capoed on the second fret will give a scale length of about 30.3". Intonation should be fine, it's no different to just tuning down a tone but only playing from the second fret upwards. There's a handy online fret/scale calculator here - [url="http://www.buildyourguitar.com/resources/fretcalc/jscrptclc.htm"]http://www.buildyourguitar.com/resources/fretcalc/jscrptclc.htm[/url]

Yes, two J pickups could be wired as a humbucker and used with an SR pre as you suggest. The two pickups in a standard Jazz bass are wired as a parallel humbucker so it's no different to that. You could add a switch to select parallel/series/single coil if desired. If the J pups are placed in the same position as an SR then they should sound somewhat similar to an MM pup but they won't sound the same as they are wound differently and have very different magnets. Only way to find out is try it and see what it sounds like!

Thanks NJE, good to hear the lines aren't plastic, I'm quite tempted to give one a try but a little wary of the weight which often seems to be on the heavy side. Great value bass though ...

That's a beautiful looking fretless. Raslee, what are the lines made from on the HB fretless board - are they wood strips or plastic strips?

Hi markdavid, thanks for replying and useful to hear of your string experience. I did already go with the Labella's which I'm very happy with. Been on about a month now and bedding in nicely. I know what you mean about the thin core wire at the tuner end, a bit delicate and also very sharp, I stabbed myself a few times during installation! Sound is exactly what I was after, response is even across the strings and they deliver definition and thump. A good choice. Cheers

Generally for a J type configuration you'd use 3 x 250k pots. Some purists say to use audio for vol and linear for tone but most Js these days just use 3 x 250k audio. All mine do and the audio tone works fine. Yes, 500k pots would sound brighter but not necessarily better (can sound harsh/brittle). To get that classic J sound use 250k pots and a .047uF tone cap.

Here's a link (seller is in Greece) - [url="https://www.facebook.com/groups/689090051102626/permalink/1642153479129607/?sale_post_id=1642153479129607"]https://www.facebook.com/groups/689090051102626/permalink/1642153479129607/?sale_post_id=1642153479129607[/url]

Sounds as it should do to me. Your P may have a .100 cap which sounds darker when rolled off than the standard .047 cap in a J.

I thought the old deluxe bridges were top load or string through as standard? If it's like the bridge below the saddle screws should all be the same length so looks like one may have been changed. You can get replacements from Allparts - [url="https://www.allparts.uk.com/products/bridge-saddle-height-screws-for-bass-hex-head-us-1-2-inch"]https://www.allparts...ead-us-1-2-inch[/url]

"The Fender Bass – An Illustrated History" - [url="http://101basses.com/the-fender-bass-an-illustrated-history/"]http://101basses.com/the-fender-bass-an-illustrated-history/[/url] This covers from 1951 to 2001. It doesn't have the comprehensive level of detail that you're after but covers the main models and significant changes over those years. This site is also a really useful reference for vintage Fender - [url="http://www.guitarhq.com/fender.html"]http://www.guitarhq.com/fender.html[/url]

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1504088856' post='3362557'] ... for £114 you can get a Squier Mustang, which is probably a better bet! [/quote] I didn't realise that Squier still did a Mustang, where can I get one of these for £114? I did a quick google but closest I could find was a Bronco for £167.

If you have a multimeter you can check the pot by measuring resistance between the centre lug and the end that isn't grounded (sweep the pot and the resistance should go from zero to the full pot value). Are you sure it's wired correctly? Post a pic if you can.