ikay

Here's a link (seller is in Greece) - [url="https://www.facebook.com/groups/689090051102626/permalink/1642153479129607/?sale_post_id=1642153479129607"]https://www.facebook.com/groups/689090051102626/permalink/1642153479129607/?sale_post_id=1642153479129607[/url]

Sounds as it should do to me. Your P may have a .100 cap which sounds darker when rolled off than the standard .047 cap in a J.

I thought the old deluxe bridges were top load or string through as standard? If it's like the bridge below the saddle screws should all be the same length so looks like one may have been changed. You can get replacements from Allparts - [url="https://www.allparts.uk.com/products/bridge-saddle-height-screws-for-bass-hex-head-us-1-2-inch"]https://www.allparts...ead-us-1-2-inch[/url]

"The Fender Bass – An Illustrated History" - [url="http://101basses.com/the-fender-bass-an-illustrated-history/"]http://101basses.com/the-fender-bass-an-illustrated-history/[/url] This covers from 1951 to 2001. It doesn't have the comprehensive level of detail that you're after but covers the main models and significant changes over those years. This site is also a really useful reference for vintage Fender - [url="http://www.guitarhq.com/fender.html"]http://www.guitarhq.com/fender.html[/url]

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1504088856' post='3362557'] ... for £114 you can get a Squier Mustang, which is probably a better bet! [/quote] I didn't realise that Squier still did a Mustang, where can I get one of these for £114? I did a quick google but closest I could find was a Bronco for £167.

If you have a multimeter you can check the pot by measuring resistance between the centre lug and the end that isn't grounded (sweep the pot and the resistance should go from zero to the full pot value). Are you sure it's wired correctly? Post a pic if you can.

I'm surprised to have been of help Excellent, glad it worked!

I don't have one but the Schaller tech diagram shows the screw marked in pic below as the one for intonation. It looks like the saddle bit just slides forward and this screw locks it in place. What do you reckon?!

If you want the science behind pickup positions and response here it is - [url="http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponse/"]http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponse/[/url] And you can test various positions with this rather cool little app - [url="http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponseDemo/index.html"]http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponseDemo/index.html[/url] Be warned, playing with pickup combinations and positions and trying to decide what sounds best can drive you MAD!

Just measured my Yamaha TRB5 which is 19mm at the bridge with a 47mm nut. Actual string spacing at nut is 38mm B to G (string centre to string centre) which is more J than P so not as wide that end as you're looking for. Some figures for reference anyway.

OK cheers and enjoy the next outing with it!

Thanks for reply police squad - do the La Bella's have an even tone across the strings and is there any 'life' to the thud?! My issue with the Hofner flats is that the E has a different feel to the rest of the strings - it has a sort of lifeless thud with very little note definition. The G, D and A strings have better definition and a more musical/singing quality.

I've just acquired an HCT Club bass which is strung with Hofner flats (I believe made by Pyramid). Fairly new set, about 3 months old so have been played in. Love the sound except for the E which is significantly duller and thuddier than the others. I know this is the 'Hofner sound' and exactly as it should be, but I'd like a set of flats with just a little more life in the lower range. I'm thinking of LaBella 760FHB2 (Hofner set) but have heard that they sound a bit too bright/harsh. Does anyone have any experience of these on a Hofner? I'm also thinking of the Thomastik JF324H (Hofner set). I really like Thomastiks but the description says "They do NOT fit the Asian made Icon & Contemporary series. This is due to the tuning machines used on those models; the holes are too small for the strings.". I've also heard that the Thomastik Hofner set is a bit too long from ball end to start of silk which results in about 1cm or so of the main string being wound round the tuning post on the E and G. Does anyone know if this is true and if they will fit an HCT? Thanks for any input on the above or other suggestions.

My '57 P and '72 J and P get fairy regular outings. Very few people take any notice in my gigging experience! I do keep a close eye on them though.

Aha! Thanks for the link

Does the HCT Violin bass have an unbound or bound fingerboard? I've seen pictures with both (see below). The unbound pic is taken from BassDirect, other websites show the HCT with binding. Are the older HCTs unbound and later ones bound (or vice versa)?

Could it be your Phil Jones combo rather than the bass? Have you tried a different bass with your rig? I found this post which mentions a distorting double 4 - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/289284-intermittant-distortion-from-my-phil-jones-double-four/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/289284-intermittant-distortion-from-my-phil-jones-double-four/[/url]

Re low output, it depends which piezo you're using. Hipshot/Graphtech piezo bridges have more output than your average humbucker!

To mix the piezo and mag signals together you'll need something like the East MPM-01 buffer circuit. I'd suggest giving John a call and explaining what you need, he'll be able to sort you out.