ikay

You can change only one or both, up to you. In standard config, two 250k pots present a combined load of 125k to the pickups. By swapping in one 500k pot the load will increase to 166k. By swapping both pots to 500k the load changes to 250k. The higher the load the brighter the tone. Experiment and see what you prefer. I've tried all combinations including a no-load pot (too bright for me). In the end I went back to 250k pots as I found I preferred the more vintage vibe. It's all down to personal preference and what works for you in a playing context.

Thanks, good call, just nabbed the last set

If it's a Peavey Grind then the spec here says originally 2 x vol and 2 x tone - [url="http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Grind5Nat"]http://www.sweetwate...etail/Grind5Nat[/url] Tone control anomoly just sounds like a bit of dodgy wiring which should be easy to fix. Ric VVTT wiring diagram here if that helps - [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/wiring-diagrams?meta_params=bass-options,2-pickups,neck-srb,bridge-srb,2-volume,2-tone"]http://www.seymourdu...2-volume,2-tone[/url] As for preamp options, take your pick! If the battery fits in the cavity I'd put it there to start with and only rout a separate box if it becomes annoying.

Chris Squire gives a demo of the Electra on this vid about 21.30 mins in - [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cprcYnffK_o"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cprcYnffK_o[/url] Not my cup of tea soundwise I have to admit but it's an interesting and unusual bass

This may help, see schematic part way down the page - [url="https://www.talkbass.com/threads/fender-jazz-deluxe-push-pull-preamp-bypass.217603/"]https://www.talkbass.com/threads/fender-jazz-deluxe-push-pull-preamp-bypass.217603/[/url]

A replacement bridge with 4 saddles is worth thinking about - [url="https://www.talkbass.com/threads/squier-bronco-bridge-replacement.854324/"]https://www.talkbass.com/threads/squier-bronco-bridge-replacement.854324/[/url]

[url="https://www.amazon.co.uk/FENDER-JAZZ-BASS%C2%AE-PICKUP-COVER/dp/B002HF483G"]https://www.amazon.co.uk/FENDER-JAZZ-BASS%C2%AE-PICKUP-COVER/dp/B002HF483G[/url] Under the 'Customer Questions & Answers' section (scroll down a bit) it says this one has 110mm hole spacing

[quote name='Mr Bassman' timestamp='1474904220' post='3141406'] Looks like Dave's has an extended adjustable end pin [/quote] Wow, that is a big extension compared with the standard end pin, how tall is Dave Swift?! Pic of mine below (admittedly I am only 5' 9") [attachment=228679:IMG_3775.jpg]

Thanks and yes the Dingwall forum might be the best route. I thought I'd ask on BC first though as the reason for the questions is that I'm interested in adapting the idea for non-Dingwall bass gear which Sheldon might consider a bit cheeky!

Gentle nudge up in case there's anyone out there who knows?

Here are measurements from mine: - Length of body from top of scroll to endpin collar is 140cm - Length of uninstalled endpin is 62cm With 12cm of endpin inserted (50cm protruding) the height of the nut in playing position is 167-8cm (my eyebrow level). I'd say the max height (nut level) with the standard endpin is around 170cm.

I know this is heresy to the vintage purist, but I use nickel rounds on my '57 P single coil which make it purr like a contented pussycat. A warm piano like quality with a little more definition than flats. Very much a personal thing strings!

What exactly is it?! I know it boosts the output of the B string and can be fitted as an add-on to existing pickups but how does it do this? Is it an additional magnet of some sort that fits under the B-string pole piece to boost the magnetic flux? I'm intrigued by the idea and interested in whether the same technique (whatever it is) could be used to say boost the D and A strings of a jazz pickup to give a more even output across the strings (particularly on small radius vintage necks where the D and A strings are noticeably further from the pickup). Any insights on how the B-booster works would be appreciated. Cheers

Yes you can swap in any passive J pickup

You could squeeze it in but it would be way closer to the bridge than on a regular Stingray (so don't expect it to sound like a Stingray). Depends what you're trying to achieve really. Just adding beefier pickups won't necessarily give you a better core sound or a more usable range of tones. With two-pickup basses the sound is heavily influenced by the positioning and distance between the pickups which determines how they interact (frequency cancellation etc). If you want to be really radical you could make a universal swimming pool rout and really play around. Take a look at this sliding pickup bass - [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS02YaLw1uM"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS02YaLw1uM[/url]. Fabulous sound, I want one!

Ah OK thanks!

Mmm, thanks for that Dood. To my mind that's really a 3 piece neck as far as any meaningful contribution to stiffness and minimizing dead spots etc is concerned (as the Dingwall blurb says). I'm not disputing the quality of the necks, but they make a point about the significance of a 5 laminate construction which is perhaps a little misleading. I still want one though!

In the Dingwall specs it says necks are made of a 5 piece maple laminate. In all the pics I've seen there only appear to be 3 visible laminates (see pic of ABZ below). Where do the other 2 laminates come in? Just curious.