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ikay

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Everything posted by ikay

  1. Sounds like a duff piezo element on the A saddle to me. The Spectorcore uses a Fishman Powerbridge. I think all the piezo elements feed into a circuit board on the underside of the bridge which combines the signal into a single output (coax cable). No adjustment for individual saddle outputs as far as I can see but that would be the first thing to check. Changing a single element would require connections on the board to be desoldered and resoldered which may be tricky. Back to a Spectorcore dealer or a tech for repair is probably the best bet. If you feel like tackling it yourself then try contacting Fishman to see if they can supply a new piezo element ([url="http://www.fishman.com/support/contactsupport.php"]http://www.fishman.com/support/contactsupport.php[/url]).
  2. Which one in the pic is the defective blend pot? They all have flying leads so should be pretty straightforward to remove and replace.
  3. Haha, there are those who would disagree! Good luck and hope it works!
  4. Yes you can incorporate the switch as well if you like. See if you can make sense of the modified schematic below!
  5. Yes that can be done. Just replace the existing vol/tone/selector switch wiring harness with a standard passive P/J harness like this one - [url="http://members.ziggo.nl/s.k.wiersma/images_bass_building/Wiring%20diagram%20-%20std_p_j_bass.jpg"]http://members.ziggo...td_p_j_bass.jpg[/url] Wire the hot and ground wires coming from the tone pot to your eq on/off switch instead of the output jack (see pic below). You can use a concentric vol pot instead of two separate vols. You may want to use 500k pots instead of 250k as shown in the diagram. Bear in mind that this new wiring adds a third pot which will change the load on the pickups and may subtly change the sound (to be a little darker).
  6. How about a vintage style Fender bridge with threaded saddles? Only a simple BBOT but the threaded saddles provide some flexibility for string spacing. [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/products/vintage-bass-bridge-assembly-w-threaded-rod-saddles-fixing-screws"]http://www.allparts....s-fixing-screws[/url] Alternatively,Hipshot A and style bridges come in a variety of string spacing options.
  7. Sorry to be the one to ask, but what is the exact weight please?
  8. In the blurb for the MF Boost on the Moog website it says that the Level control 'does not go completely off' which sounds like part of the problem. I'd contact Moog tech support and see if they can suggest anything - [email="[email protected]"][email protected][/email]
  9. Just sold my BB1100s to Allan. Very straightforward transaction, good comms, prompt payment, a pleasure to deal with. Many thanks Allan and enjoy the bass!
  10. What is the overall external length measurement please (Mono specs only give internal dimensions). Thanks
  11. That's pretty impressive, lighter than I expected with the steel backplate and larger cog. Thanks
  12. I just emailed David Holmes with a link to this discussion and suggested he join Basschat and explain a bit. So he may be along in a bit
  13. Thanks for all the interest and now sold.
  14. I contacted Allparts who sorted me out. Details below in case anyone else is interested. Fender American hex nut: Thread 10-32 Length 24mm Diameter 9.5mm Essentially the same spec as the cross head nut but 2mm longer so may protrude a bit..
  15. I emailed them re battery life and got this reply: [i]The battery life is around 18hrs of continuous play.[/i] [i]The low battery indicator will give you a 2hr of battery life warning.[/i] [i]The signal will not degrade as the battery life dies.[/i] [i]Yes the unit will switch off once battery is flat.[/i] [i]We are also working on a LightLead that doesn’t use batteries.[/i] Wonder how the battery-less version works?
  16. Not really haha but thanks anyway! I've just googled and a standard Schaller BM weighs 98gm so with the aluminium post I guess these will come in somewhere around 75-80gm. There, I've answered my own question!
  17. Hmm, you may well right but this page here says 1/8" - [url="http://intl.fender.com/en-GB/guitar-bass-parts/string-guides-nuts/truss-rod-nut-18-american-series-guitars/"]http://intl.fender.com/en-GB/guitar-bass-parts/string-guides-nuts/truss-rod-nut-18-american-series-guitars/[/url] It wouldn't be the first time Fender got it wrong! The critical specs for me though are the length, diameter and thread size.
  18. Does anyone know if a Fender American hex trussrod nut (like this - [url="http://www.cdguitars.co.uk/fender-truss-rod-nut---american-series-with-allen-head-009-4943-000----0994943000-379-p.asp"]http://www.cdguitars...43000-379-p.asp[/url]) can be used as a direct replacement for a vintage Fender cross-head nut? The cross-head nut is 7/8" long, 3/8 diameter and has a 10-32 thread but I can't find equivalent specs for the Fender USA hex nut (only that it uses a 1/8" hex wrench). Thanks for any input!
  19. Very nice indeed! I had a BB2000 for a while and really like the reverse P on these models.
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