ikay

Thanks and yes the Dingwall forum might be the best route. I thought I'd ask on BC first though as the reason for the questions is that I'm interested in adapting the idea for non-Dingwall bass gear which Sheldon might consider a bit cheeky!

Gentle nudge up in case there's anyone out there who knows?

Here are measurements from mine: - Length of body from top of scroll to endpin collar is 140cm - Length of uninstalled endpin is 62cm With 12cm of endpin inserted (50cm protruding) the height of the nut in playing position is 167-8cm (my eyebrow level). I'd say the max height (nut level) with the standard endpin is around 170cm.

I know this is heresy to the vintage purist, but I use nickel rounds on my '57 P single coil which make it purr like a contented pussycat. A warm piano like quality with a little more definition than flats. Very much a personal thing strings!

What exactly is it?! I know it boosts the output of the B string and can be fitted as an add-on to existing pickups but how does it do this? Is it an additional magnet of some sort that fits under the B-string pole piece to boost the magnetic flux? I'm intrigued by the idea and interested in whether the same technique (whatever it is) could be used to say boost the D and A strings of a jazz pickup to give a more even output across the strings (particularly on small radius vintage necks where the D and A strings are noticeably further from the pickup). Any insights on how the B-booster works would be appreciated. Cheers

Yes you can swap in any passive J pickup

You could squeeze it in but it would be way closer to the bridge than on a regular Stingray (so don't expect it to sound like a Stingray). Depends what you're trying to achieve really. Just adding beefier pickups won't necessarily give you a better core sound or a more usable range of tones. With two-pickup basses the sound is heavily influenced by the positioning and distance between the pickups which determines how they interact (frequency cancellation etc). If you want to be really radical you could make a universal swimming pool rout and really play around. Take a look at this sliding pickup bass - [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS02YaLw1uM"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS02YaLw1uM[/url]. Fabulous sound, I want one!

Ah OK thanks!

Mmm, thanks for that Dood. To my mind that's really a 3 piece neck as far as any meaningful contribution to stiffness and minimizing dead spots etc is concerned (as the Dingwall blurb says). I'm not disputing the quality of the necks, but they make a point about the significance of a 5 laminate construction which is perhaps a little misleading. I still want one though!

In the Dingwall specs it says necks are made of a 5 piece maple laminate. In all the pics I've seen there only appear to be 3 visible laminates (see pic of ABZ below). Where do the other 2 laminates come in? Just curious.

Sounds like a duff piezo element on the A saddle to me. The Spectorcore uses a Fishman Powerbridge. I think all the piezo elements feed into a circuit board on the underside of the bridge which combines the signal into a single output (coax cable). No adjustment for individual saddle outputs as far as I can see but that would be the first thing to check. Changing a single element would require connections on the board to be desoldered and resoldered which may be tricky. Back to a Spectorcore dealer or a tech for repair is probably the best bet. If you feel like tackling it yourself then try contacting Fishman to see if they can supply a new piezo element ([url="http://www.fishman.com/support/contactsupport.php"]http://www.fishman.com/support/contactsupport.php[/url]).

Which one in the pic is the defective blend pot? They all have flying leads so should be pretty straightforward to remove and replace.

Haha, there are those who would disagree! Good luck and hope it works!

Yes you can incorporate the switch as well if you like. See if you can make sense of the modified schematic below!

Yes that can be done. Just replace the existing vol/tone/selector switch wiring harness with a standard passive P/J harness like this one - [url="http://members.ziggo.nl/s.k.wiersma/images_bass_building/Wiring%20diagram%20-%20std_p_j_bass.jpg"]http://members.ziggo...td_p_j_bass.jpg[/url] Wire the hot and ground wires coming from the tone pot to your eq on/off switch instead of the output jack (see pic below). You can use a concentric vol pot instead of two separate vols. You may want to use 500k pots instead of 250k as shown in the diagram. Bear in mind that this new wiring adds a third pot which will change the load on the pickups and may subtly change the sound (to be a little darker).

Here you go

How about a vintage style Fender bridge with threaded saddles? Only a simple BBOT but the threaded saddles provide some flexibility for string spacing. [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/products/vintage-bass-bridge-assembly-w-threaded-rod-saddles-fixing-screws"]http://www.allparts....s-fixing-screws[/url] Alternatively,Hipshot A and style bridges come in a variety of string spacing options.

In the blurb for the MF Boost on the Moog website it says that the Level control 'does not go completely off' which sounds like part of the problem. I'd contact Moog tech support and see if they can suggest anything - [email="[email protected]"][email protected][/email]

Just sold my BB1100s to Allan. Very straightforward transaction, good comms, prompt payment, a pleasure to deal with. Many thanks Allan and enjoy the bass!