ikay

The bridge in the pic with brass saddles is the same as mine and clearly wider than the BBOT. I can only assume you succeeded in screwing the BBOT into the same holes as the basswood is so soft! It didn't work for me, but I wasn't happy with the 2.5mm displacement each end so didn't try and force it. It clearly is possible as you've done it! Here are a couple of pics showing the outer hole measurements - 75mm for the Squier bridge and 70mm for the standard 19mm spacing Wilkinson. [attachment=214820:022.jpg][attachment=214821:024.jpg]

Hmm, that's interesting. The hi mass bridge with brass saddles on my Squier Matt Freeman (which I thought was the same as a CV 60) definitely isn't interchangeable with a BBOT. I know because I tried! The centres of the two outer holes are 75mm apart compared with 70mm for a BBOT. You could just about squeeze screws into the inner two holes which are about 1mm out but the outers would definitely need drilling. Maybe the CV 60 has a different bridge with 19mm spacing instead of 20mm?

Thomann are selling them for £146.70 plus postage - http://www.thomann.de/gb/pirastro_evah_pirazzi_kontrabass_weich.htm. The description doesn't actually say Weich but the packaging in the second pic does. Is this the best price or can anyone suggest anywhere else to buy these from? Or if anyone has a used set please pm me (fat chance haha!)

[quote name='bakerster135' timestamp='1458123202' post='3004826'] ...I've been slanting it slightly towards the fretboard (so front to back, not top to bottom) so it follows the line of the strings [/quote] I know what you mean but to be honest I don't think it makes a lot of difference either way. I have mine set up parallel to the body which I guess means there's a slight bias towards the neck coil, more so as you fret up the fingerboard. The SR pickup is pretty aggressive anyway so that set up works for me. There is no right or wrong though, do whatever sounds right to you.

The CV 60s hi mass bridge has 20mm string spacing and different mounting holes to a standard BBOT. The screws holes are slightly wider apart and would need to be filled and redrilled. It's very annoying, I don't know why they did this.

[url="http://www.simscustom.com/html/00pickguards.htm"]http://www.simscustom.com/html/00pickguards.htm[/url] [url="http://www.jacksinstrumentservices.com/custom-scratchplate-cutting.html"]http://www.jacksinstrumentservices.com/custom-scratchplate-cutting.html[/url] [url="http://www.originalscratchplates.com/"]http://www.originalscratchplates.com/[/url] - laser cut (not cnc), can only supply straight edge plates (not bevelled)

Ah ok thanks. I know there was an MIJ 'Squier Series' Strat made in the 90s with a similar black Fender logo (pic below) but don't know whether there were similar Js and Ps in that period.

Out of interest Paul, what's wrong with it?

Any of these? - [url="http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/bass_trussnuts.htm"]http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/bass_trussnuts.htm[/url] Thread specs (diameter and pitch will be the critical thing. Isn't there a Nightingale/Goodfellow connection? Might be worth giving Bernie a call

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1456268809' post='2987360'] I believe Sting has the SCPB1 in his '57 P. [/quote] I think Sting uses a stacked single coil like this - http://customshop.seymourduncan.com/51-p-bass-stack/ (interview here - http://www.sting.com/news/article/4194)

Don't have one myself but the review in SOS says "The pedal also works with the higher notes of an electric bass guitar, though not quite so well below the instrument’s D-string" [url="http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/oct14/articles/ehx_b9.htm"]http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/oct14/articles/ehx_b9.htm[/url]

I found these contact details for Guy Lewis on an old ebay listing. Not sure if he's still in business but may be worth dropping him an email. Email:[email protected] ebay seller name: pablovibe

If it's the single pickup passive model there's not a lot that can go wrong. If the pickup is generating output and sounds awesome then it sounds like it's working as it should. If the output seems a bit low have you tried raising the pickup height? Low output isn't necessarily a sign of a problem anyway as all pickups vary. Just give it a bit more gain at the amp input stage.

This may be of interest - [url="http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/870115-Bass-Thumb-Rests-Forums"]http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/870115-Bass-Thumb-Rests-Forums[/url]

Plug it in and have a play ! Do they produce good output? Do have any reason to think that they're not working properly?

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1455672101' post='2981416'] ... it will be supplied with the slots not cut deep enough. [/quote] This is correct. I bought a replacement SR neck from Strings & Things a few years ago and it comes from the factory with guide nut slots that still need a final bit of filing. A replacement SR nut will no doubt be the same.

The ALN35 markings correspond with what's in the parts list below and look to be correct for an American Deluxe Jazz (JB-4N indicates the neck pickup) - [url="http://support.fender.com/service_diagrams/jazz_bass/019-4690B_SISD.pdf"]http://support.fende...-4690B_SISD.pdf[/url] Maybe the N3 marking on the cover has just worn off (or the covers have been changed)?

I'd have a chat with the chaps down at Strings & Things in Shoreham, they should be able to get you a replacement Stingray nut from Ernie Ball. I've always found them very helpful down there. [url="http://www.stringsandthings.co.uk/"]http://www.stringsandthings.co.uk/[/url]

Re effective RH technique, yes I'm using finger movement more than arm weight so that's definitely something for me to work on. Too many years playing BG, old habits die hard. DB really does demand a very different technique, as I'm steadily discovering on a daily basis! Effective use of weight in both left and right hand being a really big one which I'm finding quite hard to master. Skilled players make it all look so effortless, which I can only assume is the result of selling ones soul to the devil.

JoeEvans - I mainly use the index finger pointing down technique, coming to rest on the string below. Occasionally swapping to alternating fingers. After more experimenting it's clear that my right hand technique is causing the problem. It's difficult not to hit the string below but I'm trying different ways to minimise it. Will give your method a try as well, thanks for that. Jaywalker - The piezo sound is full and strong, no impedance matching issues. The thin sound was only when cutting eq at both ends a bit too enthusiatically. The amp was down by my ankles so agree I wasn't hearing the projected sound. I'll experiment with standing away from the amp to get a better idea of how it really sounds.

Under saddle piezo strips generally go hand in hand with an acoustic type saddle which comes into direct contact with it. I'm not sure how well a piezo strip would work under a regular bridge plate. The piezo channel and bottom of the saddle need to be perfectly flat to ensure good contact and even string pressure/volume. I've used Fishman and D-Tar under saddles, both in hollow body basses designed specifically for that purpose. Piezo saddles are a good option for a solid body. I have a Hipshot piezo bridge with an East piezo buffer in my fretless ACG (in combination with a mag pickup and East SPM-01 3-band eq). This configuration works extremely well, particularly for fretless.