ikay

[quote name='gypsyjazzer' timestamp='1450612326' post='2934251'] The reason for the question was I thought just over 4mm was a bit excessive. [/quote] Neck relief on a DB (fingerboard camber in DB terminology) varies depending on string type, playing style and personal preference but somewhere around 2.5mm would be a pretty typical amount of 'relief'. Your neck doesn't sound warped, it just has quite a lot of camber which might make some notes in the low/mid range harder to stop. I've recently spent a bit of time carefully planing some camber out of my fingerboard and it's now much easier to play. Disclaimer: My DB is a cheap old thing and fair game for a bit of 'home improvement'. DIY camber adjustments obviously not advisable on anything of value!

Hmm, try this one (and scroll down to the thread) - [url="http://www.fenderforum.com/forum.html?db=&topic_number=713534"]http://www.fenderfor...c_number=713534[/url]

This thread suggests the size you need is '2BA small' (see third post down) http://www.fenderfor...c_number=713534

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1450355716' post='2931943']I thought a maple board would be nice alternative ...[/quote] WoT, like seemingly everyone on BC I'm contemplating buying one of these. I'm curious that the maple board makes such a big difference. Is it just the maple board or the whole neck profile on this one that you don't like? I'm flipping between maple and rosewood so any light you can shed on the difference in sound/playability between maple and rw on the Maruszczyk would be helpful. Cheers, Ian

Detailed dimensions for the Schaller 3D can be found here (click on the 'Technical drawing' tab): - [url="http://guitar-parts.biz/hp135061/Bassbridge-3D-4.htm?ITServ=C24f0418cX151a5f8746fX1d2d"]http://guitar-parts.biz/hp135061/Bassbridge-3D-4.htm?ITServ=C24f0418cX151a5f8746fX1d2d[/url]

This thread has some useful information and suggests the size you need is '2BA small' (see third post down) [url="http://www.fenderforum.com/forum.html?db=&topic_number=713534"]http://www.fenderforum.com/forum.html?db=&topic_number=713534[/url] You can get 2BA small' washers here: [url="http://www.stainlessautomotivefastenings.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4878&cPath=140_142"]http://www.stainlessautomotivefastenings.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4878&cPath=140_142[/url]

Bit of history here - [url="http://www.odysseyguitars.ca/history.php"]http://www.odysseyguitars.ca/history.php[/url]

Some say yes, some say no. With the J turned compleely down though there's still an extra 250k vol pot in the circuit. This sits in parallel with the 250k P vol pot which changes the load on the P pickup which in turn will affect the tone to some degree (it will sound a little less bright). You could insert a mini switch to isolate the J vol pot when not using the J pup which would leave the P au naturel.

Hmm, getting cheaper by the day! Provenance is ebay so best avoided I guess. The neck and body serials match and look authentic to me but clearly something not right. Maybe the neck is shot

I have a 30" Prosebass headless with removable neck that I cart all over the place, abroad on holiday etc. Always have it to hand at home as well for working stuff out on. It's probably the bass I play most often! For travelling in the UK it's perfect, fits in a small headless gig bag and just chuck it in the car or whatever. When flying I break it down and put it in my suitcase which to be honest is a bit of a pain. It's 90cm long which is just too big to squeeze in my case. At 5.5lbs it also eats up the weight allowance (the chunky bridge tuner unit weighs well over a pound by itself). Overall though a short scale headless of some sort is a great solution. If I was to build another one I'd use lightweight monorail bridge/tuners and just have a lipstick rather than a humbucker. Or better still piezo bridge pieces instead of a mag pup. Anything to keep the weight down. I'd also consider going down to 28" scale but depends what you want to do with it (I don't gig with mine). I've also tried a ukelele but the neck was just too miniature for me. I like the look of the Sinsonido but the 34" scale neck/body unit was a bit too long for what I was after. [url="http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/iankay/media/Stuff/IMG_3014.jpg.html"][/url]

Needs a bit of work but the essential bits (body and neck) appear to be present and correct. [url="https://www.gumtree.com/p/guitar-instrument/vintage-late-70-s-fender-precision-bass-sunburst-maple-neck/1144818225"]https://www.gumtree.com/p/guitar-instrument/vintage-late-70-s-fender-precision-bass-sunburst-maple-neck/1144818225[/url]

- [url="http://www.scott-whitley.com/swb-1-standard/"]http://www.scott-whitley.com/swb-1-standard/[/url]

I use an East MPM-01 buffer ([url="http://www.east-uk.com/index.php/bass/piezo-magnetic-mixer/mpm-01.html"]http://www.east-uk.c...xer/mpm-01.html[/url]) to combine the mag and piezo in my ACG. The MPM-01 has two channels, piezo goes in one side and mag in the other. There are trim pots to balance the piezo/mag levels. Two separate buffered outputs then go to a blend knob and then into an East SPM-02 3-band preamp. The blend sweeping between piezo and mag works particularly well. Wide open and airy at the piezo end to focused and punchy at the mag end with all points in between. I've only got a single mag pup but I'm sure this setup could be adapted to work with dual mags.

Jack's Instrument Services in Manchester make custom pickguards and should be able to replicate your original guard - [url="http://www.jacksinstrumentservices.com/custom-scratchplate-cutting.html"]http://www.jacksinst...te-cutting.html[/url]

I think the shrinkwrap is mainly there to prevent any rattling between the two rods