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ikay

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by ikay

  1. I've had 'disappointing' experiences with guitar techs in the past and am now very wary about letting anyone touch my basses. However, one of my basses now needs a fret level and dress so I've got to bite the bullet. Can anyone recommend someone who does good fret work in Surrey or Sussex? Someone who will spend the time to get it right and not just push it through a production line. Joe White is mentioned in the recommended luthiers thread but I can't find feedback from anyone who's actually used him! Eternal Guitars in Chichester is another, does anyone have any experience with them? Thanks
  2. It may be a slightly high or low fret that's choking that particular note. As a test, try raising the action on the D string. If that alleviates it then you may need a bit of fret levelling in that area.
  3. Thanks jmlbasses, it's a lovely piece of work
  4. That's unusual and interesting! A couple of questions: - is the construction fully hollow with just a bridge block or semi-hollow with a full length centre block and hollow wings? - what is the pickup /configuration under the cover (split-p, single coil(s), humbucker, active or passive)? - is there provision for an undersaddle piezo/transducer? - your ad on ebay mentions some yellow blemishes on the body and headstock? (can't see them on the pics) Thanks
  5. Dimensions of the 5 would be useful to have as well JapanAxe, cheers
  6. I'm looking for overall dimensions for an MDF humbucker (4-string, as in pic below) so I can estimate the rout needed for a project bass. If someone with an MFD equipped G&L could do a quick measure that would be much appreciated. Thanks
  7. Some G&L passive tone controls have a 6.8k resistor following the tone cap before it goes to ground (see link below). Can anyone tell me what effect this resistor has on the tone compared with a standard tone control (without the resistor). Thanks [url="http://www.glguitars.com/schematics/SB-1_schematic_blockdiagram.pdf"]http://www.glguitars.com/schematics/SB-1_schematic_blockdiagram.pdf[/url]
  8. The 1024/5 tuners have a three screw mounting plate (like the old BBs). The BT10 says it will fit BBs but is a four screw mounting. I've already been in contact with Hipshot and they don't do anything that fits the three screw mounting.
  9. Hmm that's interesting to know. Hipshot don't make a D-tuner for the BB (I'm interested in a 4) so this opens the way for an ultralite option without drilling holes. Any chance of a pic?
  10. The pups on the BBNE1 look similar to those on my TRB5 (single coil with dummy coil). Each pickup on the TRB has three wires - red & white (hot/cold) and an earth wire. See pic below. The wires on yours may be similar and should be easy to spot if a wire is missing (a bit unlikely as the brown and grey cables in your pic look intact).
  11. Hi Charla, if you can post a pic of your wiring harness showing the relevant bits I'm sure someone here will be able to help. A missing wire from a pickup should be pretty easy to spot, how do the wires coming from the bridge pup compare with the neck pickup?
  12. I don't know if this TB link is of any help - [url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/repairing-preamp-for-yamaha-bbeast.862708/"]http://www.talkbass.com/threads/repairing-preamp-for-yamaha-bbeast.862708/[/url] As well as the pics there's a very basic schematic at the bottom of the thread
  13. Thanks 3below. That's very close to a P (about 6mm closer to the bridge than my '72). I'm now thinking maybe a G&L humbucker in the P position like an L1000, mmm ...
  14. Good point re pickup position. Can someone measure from 12th fret to centreline of polepieces? (it's a more consistent measurement than from the saddles)
  15. Many thanks Gary, it was looking at your lovely SB1 that prompted the question! Sounds like it's probably close enough then, maybe with a little tweaking
  16. Does anyone know if the G&L MFD split pickup (as on the SB-1) is the same size as a standard Fender P pickup? I'm interested in whether it would work as a straight drop in replacement on a Fender P. Thanks
  17. ikay

    Feedback for Harry

    Just bought an SM58 from Harry, very straightforward transaction and a pleasure to deal with, many thanks!
  18. Parallel wiring gives a slightly more open sound and is a good starting point for tweaking with EQ to taste. You can easily EQ a bit more mid grunt into parallel if desired. Standard Stingray wiring is parallel if you're looking for a rationale. It all depends what sort of sound you're looking for. If you want serious grunt as your starting point go for series but it will be fiddlier to dial out the grunt and get back the more open and extended range of parallel.
  19. The mention of a warped neck and being sold as a project?
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