ikay

I don't know if this TB link is of any help - [url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/repairing-preamp-for-yamaha-bbeast.862708/"]http://www.talkbass.com/threads/repairing-preamp-for-yamaha-bbeast.862708/[/url] As well as the pics there's a very basic schematic at the bottom of the thread

Thanks 3below. That's very close to a P (about 6mm closer to the bridge than my '72). I'm now thinking maybe a G&L humbucker in the P position like an L1000, mmm ...

Good point re pickup position. Can someone measure from 12th fret to centreline of polepieces? (it's a more consistent measurement than from the saddles)

Many thanks Gary, it was looking at your lovely SB1 that prompted the question! Sounds like it's probably close enough then, maybe with a little tweaking

Does anyone know if the G&L MFD split pickup (as on the SB-1) is the same size as a standard Fender P pickup? I'm interested in whether it would work as a straight drop in replacement on a Fender P. Thanks

Just bought an SM58 from Harry, very straightforward transaction and a pleasure to deal with, many thanks!

Parallel wiring gives a slightly more open sound and is a good starting point for tweaking with EQ to taste. You can easily EQ a bit more mid grunt into parallel if desired. Standard Stingray wiring is parallel if you're looking for a rationale. It all depends what sort of sound you're looking for. If you want serious grunt as your starting point go for series but it will be fiddlier to dial out the grunt and get back the more open and extended range of parallel.

The mention of a warped neck and being sold as a project?

There's a vintage colour chart for the 1960s at this link (about 2/3 down the page) - [url="http://www.guitarhq.com/fenderc.html"]http://www.guitarhq.com/fenderc.html[/url] It looks like the attached pic. According to this the only dark green custom finish available in '69 would have been Teal Green metallic. Old nitro finishes tend to go dark with age so it might be this. Although I agree in your pics it looks dark blue!

This site has all sorts of Hofner vintage bits [url="http://www.tourmanager.it/tourmanager/Hofner-Eko-Klira-Vintage.html"]http://www.tourmanager.it/tourmanager/Hofner-Eko-Klira-Vintage.html[/url] I bought a plastic headstock logo from here and transaction was very straightforward

"I want one of these..." Me too! Here's another interesting variation of a sliding pickup bass - [url="http://www.spaltinstruments.com/instruments/vviper/"]http://www.spaltinstruments.com/instruments/vviper/[/url]

Hard to see. Is this pic (below) as good as it gets?

Demo here - [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=molxHHbKqbA"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=molxHHbKqbA[/url]

Ah OK, with a VVT setup of course that makes sense I've never had a problem backing off one of the pups a touch with either of my passive Js though. Maybe they both have log pots.

I generally play with the volume on the bass maxed so, while I can see the irritation, does it really matter? Unlike guitarists who use the vol pot for fine adjustments of tone and character etc. I wonder how many bass players use a volume in this way? I expect I'll now find out the error of my ways!

Warmoth do a 24 fret option for their 38mm jazz necks, or are you after something more cheap and cheerful?

Not normal no (whatever that means for a 70s Fender ), but here's another 1976 P with a similarly placed logo - [url="https://reverb.com/item/823510-fender-precision-bass-1976-black"]https://reverb.com/i...bass-1976-black[/url] Normal would be more like this - [url="http://www.vintageandrare.com/product/Fender-Precision-Bass-Fretless-1976-Natural-46183"]http://www.vintagean...6-Natural-46183[/url]