Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

ikay

⭐Supporting Member⭐
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,195

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by ikay

  1. ikay
    A particularly nice example of this lovely old bass from 1964. Has recently had the neck reset by Andy Gibson of Denmark Street (last October). A comnmon issue with old Hofners but now sorted and good for the next 50 years! Neck is straight, trussrod works as it should and frets are in good shape. Plays very well with a nice medium action (5/64 to 6/64 measured at the 12th fret). Has a new set of Thomastik jazz rounds which are low tension and suit the instrument very well. The pickup, post and wiring are original and all working. The volume pot is scratchy when turned but quiet when fully turned up. The tone pot works fine but for some reason is wired in reverse! Hasn't bothered me at all and easy to get used to. The rest of the bass is also all original (right down to the slot-head screws on the tuners and truss rod cover) except for the following small things: - the plastic logo on the headstock is a reissue - the scratchplate is missing - a vintage style strap pin has been added to the top bout (which is much more practical than on the neck heel where it would originally have been) It's in very good overall condition considering it's age but there is inevitably some mojo and general wear. The finish is chipped on the edges of the headstock and there's a small area on the top bout where the finish has worn through to the wood. I've tried to show everything as clearly a possible in the photo album which can be found here: [url="http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/iankay/library/Hofner%20Senator?sort=3&page=1"]http://s1090.photobu...r?sort=3&page=1[/url] Comes with a Hofner hard case (model H64/9) which is very sturdy. The case is intended for the President bass which has a slightly deeper body than the Senator (2.5" compared with 2") but with a little padding in the bottom it's a perfect fit. Reason for sale is the usual one, so I can buy more basses! Not really, I'm actually trying to cut my collection down to a handful that I use most regularly. That's the theory anyway Price is £400 including delivery (UK only) Any questions please ask. Viewing welcome (I'm located in West Sussex between Guildford and Horsham).
  2. ikay
    Thanks again for feedback. And yes I understand about changing strings one at a time, but in this case I also want to take the bridge off to do some work on it.
  3. ikay
    Ah, thanks Rabbie, that's very helpful, will try that.
  4. ikay
    Thanks icastle. Repositioning a sound post looks horribly tricky though and needs a bunch of weird Victorian dentists tools like the pic below. Ideally I'd like to prevent it falling over in the first place if such a thing is possible?
  5. ikay
    Is there a trick of the trade to stopping the sound post from falling over when all the strings have been removed and there is no downward pressure from the bridge? I have an old DB which needs a bit of work on the nut and the bridge. Realise this is really a job for a luthier but it's a fairly straightforward adjustment and I'd like to have a go myself first. Trouble is I need to take all the strings off and I can't work out how to keep the sound post in place. There must surely be some way to do this? Any advice gratefully received! Thanks
  6. ikay
    "Did you use the Acousti-Phonic preamp? I'm curious how it compares to the Fishman Powerchip?" Sorry to butt in on a question to someone else. I've tried the Acoustiphonic preamp but found it coloured the piezo sound too much for my liking. In standard mode there's a built-in boost to bass and treble which gives it a very low-end-heavy scooped sound. There's also an alternative mid-boost setting which to me was a bit too strong on the mids and lost some of the full range characteristics. After experimenting with a Schaller piezo preamp I ended up using an East MPB-01 buffer which is completely transparent and just optimises the full range response of the piezo. I then run it through an East 3-band with variable mid to fine tune the voicing as and when needed. I've not used the Fishman Powerchip but that was also on my shortlist. The East buffer just offered a bit more flexibility for my piezo/mag configuration. Be interested to hear any views on the Powerchip.
  7. ikay
    Hipshot/Graphtech bridges with built-in piezo saddles are very good indeed (have one on my ACG fretless) [url="http://www.graphtech.com/products/product-detail/pn-8370-b5-ghost-loaded-hipshot-a-style-bass-bridge---black-5-string"]http://www.graphtech.com/products/product-detail/pn-8370-b5-ghost-loaded-hipshot-a-style-bass-bridge---black-5-string[/url]
  8. ikay
    I can't quite work out the extent of the crack. Does it run from the strap pin to under the pickguard (as far as the pickup cavity?), as though the whole top section of the upper horn has almost been sheared off?
  9. ikay
    Haha, yes I saw you'd acquired a Lull Dan, have to admit I am tempted...!
  10. ikay
    PM'd
  11. ikay
    Thanks for reply re the issue of balance. I guess that depends on having quite a dense body then. Out of interest what does your custom SWB-1 weigh? On the question of reach though, with so much neck to the left of the upper strap button doesn't it feel much the same as a 34" for the left hand? Sorry to labour the point, I'm not trying to be awkward. I really like the idea of the SWB-1 but one of the things that attracts me to a short scale is having to stretch less for the lower frets.
  12. ikay
    Scott, like everyone else I'm interested in the SWB-1 but I'm a bit curious about how it balances on a strap. With such a short top horn the strap pin looks to be around the 17th fret compared with the 12th fret on a regular jazz type. Doesn't this make it a bit neck heavy and mean the reach to the lower frets feels much the same as playing a long scale? Will the production model have exactly the same body shape or do you have any thoughts to extend the top horn a bit? It looks great as it is, just wondering about the ergonomics.
  13. ikay
    The import duty rate for importing Musical instrument into United Kingdom is 3.7%, the import VAT is 20%. Adding 25% is a good rule of thumb. Remember that duty and VAT is also applied to shipping costs. There's a useful import duty calculator here - [url="http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-duty-and-tax-calculation/"]http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-duty-and-tax-calculation/[/url]
  14. ikay
    My '72 P is the same at the first fret (21mm) but a little deeper at the 12th fret (25mm). Measured using digital calipers.
  15. ikay
    The VIP 3 is a modelling amp and the EQ is modelled to each amp. It only has 3-bands (low, mid, high) and no indication of frequency centres. The only thing to do is probably just mess around with the various amp models and find one with a mid EQ that is closest to what you have in mind. If that doesn't work then looks like an EQ pedal is your best bet.
  16. ikay
    This one is close to the dimensions you need - [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/graph-tech-tusq-nut-slotted-martin-style-2645-p.asp"]http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/graph-tech-tusq-nut-slotted-martin-style-2645-p.asp[/url]
  17. ikay

    aguilar OBP 1

    ikay replied to ebenezer's topic in Bass Guitars

    Some comments about the OBP-and Sadowsky pre here - [url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/sadowsky-pre-vs-aguilar-obp-1.545444/"]http://www.talkbass.com/threads/sadowsky-pre-vs-aguilar-obp-1.545444/[/url]
  18. ikay
    Only vey slight oddity is the black Fender logo, other 83's generally seem to have a silver with black outline. Otherwise looks good to me. There's an '83 P for sale on BC for comparison here - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/254005-fender-1983-us-standard-precision-bass/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/254005-fender-1983-us-standard-precision-bass/[/url]
  19. ikay
    Is that font barely readable or is it just me ...? (entirely possible!)
  20. ikay
    "I would have said the exact opposite..." What I mean by dynamic range is the sensitivity of the pickup to respond from the very lightest touch through to really digging in (ie. the range of its output from lowest to highest in terms of volume and harmonic content). This is generally greater with a passive pickup as active circuitry compresses the signal at various stages along the signal path (compression = less dynamic range). I can see what you're saying though. Active pickups often have an extended frequency range so you can hear more harmonic detail. These extended frequencies can make them sound/feel more 'sensitive'. In a technical sense though the dynamic range of an active pickup will generally be somewhat compressed compared with passive.
  21. ikay
    Active doesn't (necessarily) = better. Passive pickups have greater dynamic range and are more responsive to playing touch. After years of playing active basses I've recently rediscovered the simple joys of my old passive Fenders. They just sound more open and expressive to me. But then I am getting old and steadily regressing to my 60s roots when of course everything sounded better
  22. ikay
    Thank you
  23. ikay
    Is this a series II or series III? It seems to have the control layout of a series II but the 90/10 graphite neck of a series III. Also what does each switch/knob control? Lovely bass, please excuse my Vigier ignorance!
  24. ikay
    Wind the treble down a bit on your amp, turn down any tweeters in your cabs?
  25. ikay
    Just bought an SM58 from Stu. Pleasant chap to deal with, responded quickly to messages and posted the following day. Very pleased with the mic. Many thanks! Ian
×
×
  • Create New...