ikay

The nut to bridge length distance doesn't matter in this case (unless you want to use the existing side dot markers)

As long as you don't take any notice of the neck side markers then yes that should work fine

GP11 service manual with circuit diagrams can be downloaded as pdf here - [url="http://elektrotanya.com/trace-elliot_gp11-ah350-ah500-mk-v-bass_sm.pdf/download.html"]http://elektrotanya.com/trace-elliot_gp11-ah350-ah500-mk-v-bass_sm.pdf/download.html[/url]

FWIW here's another thread on the same topic - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/188772-jazz-bass-stacked-knob-compared-to-v-v-t/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/188772-jazz-bass-stacked-knob-compared-to-v-v-t/[/url]

You've answered it yourself - when the button is IN the signal is pre-EQ which means the signal from the XLR output is not affected by the EQ settings on your amp. Sending a clean bass signal to the PA (rather than a signal that has been tweaked for your stage sound) is generally a good thing so this is the setting I'd use.

The latest I've seen with slot head screws is 1981 and the earliest I've seen with hex screws is 1982 so I think the change was made somewhere around there

Doesn't the intonation screw just need a regular Philips screwdriver (small/medium ish size)?

Completely agree. I was very disappointed with the Sonuus and couldn't get anything close to sensible note tracking with it. I guess it's possible to get it to work, otherwise how could they sell it, but it's definitely doesn't do what it says on the tin ("plug and play, fast and accurate, ultra low latency" etc).

Thanks Geoff. I'm just trying to find a case that will fit it for shipping (I've just bought one and the depth measurement given to me by the seller doesn't sound right so I'm trying to check) I know the body depth is 2". What I need is the overall depth including the height of the bridge on top. I guess an estimate of 4" would probably do it. If no one else chips in I'll go with that. Cheers

If anyone has a Senator or President could you please let me know the overall max depth from top of bridge to underside of body. Many thanks

Ta for the link. An interesting mix of miniature ornamental basses and real ones! Worth keeping an eye on by the sound of it

Good buy! Where do you find the 'damaged stock' offers on the Thomann website?

I messaged the seller to clarify what it was and they said it was a custom build. Pic of back showing through neck construction attached.

I find DR Sunbeams a littte warmer than most. The round core also gives them a softer feel which I think helps.

At first glance it does look very like a 51-57 machine head but if you look more closely a couple of things don't look quite right. First is the rivet holding the paddle to the shaft which is much closer to the end of the shaft on a genuine 50s one. Second is the washer under the slothead screw on the main cog which is smaller on the original (although I guess this could have been replaced). I've attached a pic of my original 1957 P for reference. Overall I'd guess that yours is probably taken from a more recent reissue of a 50 bass rather than an original 50s machine head.

If that's a Schecter Stilletto then may be worth dropping them an email - [email="[email protected]"][email protected][/email] Alternatively these may work (see items 5 to 8 in the list) - [url="http://shop.warwick.de/?&c=35352310006&lang=en&smk=1&nm=D0405358001321517424A43801%7CWarwick%7CD0204003001321517427A45006&modul=shop&site=shop_overview"]http://shop.warwick.de/?&c=35352310006&lang=en&smk=1&nm=D0405358001321517424A43801%7CWarwick%7CD0204003001321517427A45006&modul=shop&site=shop_overview[/url]

See here - [url="http://forums.ernieball.com/music-man-basses/59012-new-stingray-bass-has-new-type-battery-box.html"]http://forums.ernieball.com/music-man-basses/59012-new-stingray-bass-has-new-type-battery-box.html[/url] This suggests the new style battery box has a logo on it, if it doesn't then I guess it's an old style one