ikay

Excellent!

[quote name='geoffbyrne' timestamp='1385572341' post='2289815'] Has anyone got a pic showing where everything is connected? [/quote] Hi Geoff, some annotated pics of my TRB series-1 preamp below. Hope that's of some help. If anything needs clarifying drop me a pm. [URL=http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/iankay/media/TRB%20PREAMP/IMG_1380.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i370/iankay/TRB%20PREAMP/IMG_1380.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/iankay/media/TRB%20PREAMP/IMG_1388.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i370/iankay/TRB%20PREAMP/IMG_1388.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/iankay/media/TRB%20PREAMP/IMG_1381.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i370/iankay/TRB%20PREAMP/IMG_1381.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

See this post from fender - [url="http://www.fender.com/news/finish-checking/"]http://www.fender.com/news/finish-checking/[/url]

Not too many out there I don't think. Here's a Teisco from the 1960s - [url="http://guitarz.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/teisco-kb-2-vintage-japanese-bass.html"]http://guitarz.blogs...anese-bass.html[/url]. This one also appears to have an early truss rod wheel-type adjuster. Very forward thinking. Maybe MM lifted some of their Stingray design ideas from Teisco!

How about contacting a UK pickup maker such as Aaron Armstrong? He does a lot of custom pickups. Give him the dimensions and see if he has a soapbar type casing that might work. [url="http://www.armstrongpickups.co.uk/"]http://www.armstrongpickups.co.uk/[/url]

These might work - [url="http://www.mocap.co.uk/plastic-plugs-vinyl.html"]http://www.mocap.co.uk/plastic-plugs-vinyl.html[/url]

Andertons (Guildford) are listing them at £1,450 for the 4 and £1,523 for the 5. Available to order. [url="http://www.andertons.co.uk/electric-basses/pid30839/cid682/fender-american-deluxe-dimension-bass-iv-hh-in-violin-burst.asp"]http://www.andertons.co.uk/electric-basses/pid30839/cid682/fender-american-deluxe-dimension-bass-iv-hh-in-violin-burst.asp[/url]

According to a post on this TB thread (near the bottom of page 4), old Fender flats (60s era) had turquoise silk at the ball end and were plain at the tuner end. Maybe these are old Fender rounds? [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f16/silk-colors-717720/index4.html"]http://www.talkbass....720/index4.html[/url]

How about this - [url="http://www.gear4music.com/PA-DJ-and-Lighting/Vocal-Care-Microphome-Sanitizing-and-Deodorizing-Microphone-Spray/I4W"]http://www.gear4music.com/PA-DJ-and-Lighting/Vocal-Care-Microphome-Sanitizing-and-Deodorizing-Microphone-Spray/I4W[/url]

A switchcraft jack socket like this should sort you out - [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Switchcraft-USA-Jack-Socket-/281193654168"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Switchcraft-USA-Jack-Socket-/281193654168[/url]

Hi Gareth, I;'ve just installed a John East system in my mag+piezo fretless using the SPM-02 eq modules and MPM-01 buffer. Very pleased with the result. Mine is a 4 knob configuration (vol/blend, mid/freq, treble, bass) but something similar could be configured for 3 knobs using JE modules. The new MPM buffer is excellent.and allows for buffering and balancing of both mag and piezo signals before the vol/blend and eq chain. Drop me a pm if you like more details. Ian

This [attachment=145875:P1010397.jpg]

[quote name='five-string.co.uk' timestamp='1381409033' post='2238625'] I like this idea!! I wonder if the magnets interfere with the electrics in anyway though? [/quote] Here's a thread from TB about using magnets for the control cavity and general concensus is that they won't affect the pickups. Several builders already use this technique so I guess it must work ok - [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/rare-earth-magnets-cavity-control-covers-226442/"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/rare-earth-magnets-cavity-control-covers-226442/[/url]

Another option would be to mod the control cover to attach with small disc magnets like this: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pack-of-50-small-Neodymium-disk-magnets-4mm-dia-x-1-5mm-N35-grade-craft-wargames-/130970602265?"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pack-of-50-small-Neodymium-disk-magnets-4mm-dia-x-1-5mm-N35-grade-craft-wargames-/130970602265?[/url]

Putting a flip top in the cover plate is a nice idea but I think the Lyte control cavity is a bit too tight for that to work. I have a couple of basses where the battery is in the control cavity and it's not really a problem. Just put a bit of masking tape on the back with the date when you last changed the battery and make a point of changing it every 6 months or so. And always carry a screwdriver in your gig bag! If you really want a separate battery compartment that's a relatively simple job for a luthier to do. [attachment=145545:Fender-PBass-Lyte.jpg]

Having one built is something to consider. I was looking for something similar a while back. After looking at all the usual suspects and not finding what I wanted, I had a short scale (30") bolt-on headless built by Paul Rose. This breaks down into two parts and fits snugly inside my regular suitcase. Easy to reassemble at the other end. Build quality is functional rather than boutique but it''s a very robust and playable little bass. The sort of thing you can chuck in and take anywhere without worrying too much. It's been abroad several times and I often throw it in when I travel in the UK. I've only used it for practice but it's gig worthy. The only other 30" headless with a bolt on neck that I could find was the Traveler Escape Mk-II bass. I like the look of this but it was a little more than I wanted to spend at the time. - [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/traveler_escape_mkii_bass.htm"]http://www.thomann.d...e_mkii_bass.htm[/url]. [attachment=144418:P1040172.jpg]

This bass cover on youtube may help if you haven't seen it already. Or I'd use something like 'transcribe' to slow the track down ([url="http://www.seventhstring.com/"]http://www.seventhstring.com/[/url]). - [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jRk1Xd56Q0[/media]

It's interesting that the new Warwick adjustable nut (below), and the Alembic nut, uses a different method to this. The grooves in a well cut nut usually fall off slightly towards the headstock to give good string contact and a clear witness point at the front. The ABM adjustable screw method doesn't allow for this. The difference is probably minimal but there is a compromise of sorts going on here to achieve individual string adjustment. [attachment=143947:Warwick adjustable nut.JPG]

Just bought a 90s GK 200MB combo from Mike. Very smooth transaction, good communication and a pleasure to deal with. Great little amp, many thanks Mike!

[quote name='lowregisterhead' timestamp='1378881465' post='2205822'] House Music are listed as a distributer, but I've had no response from them so far. Are they still in business? [/quote] Yes, just spoken to Barry at House Music and they're expecting a shipment of 6 Radius (Radii?) later this month. No pricing yet, they're still doing the figures..