ikay

If you have one to sell, or know of anyone who might, please pm me. Thanks, Ian

If you have one to sell, or know of anyone who might, please pm me. Thanks, Ian

This bass cover on youtube brings the bass line to the front of the mix and may be of some use. Guitar break is at around 2.15mins. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrDeXIn08Xo

Micromesh polishing paper works well on ebanol - [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MICRO-MESH-MICROMESH-POLISHING-KIT-9-SHEETS-6-X-4-/221203391107?"]http://www.ebay.co.u...-/221203391107?[/url] . Work up through the finer grades (4000, 6000, 8000, 12000 grit) to remove small marks and get a polished finish.

One clue you've got to work with is the tapered B. You may then be able to narrow it down by eliminating tapers with silk. This link lists some tapered strings and may be a useful starting point - [url="http://www.bassstringsonline.com/Taper-Core_c_251.html"]http://www.bassstringsonline.com/Taper-Core_c_251.html[/url]

[quote name='tom skool' timestamp='1376577090' post='2176334'] On this diagram it would be the lowest lug on the bridge vol over to the right hand side lug of the tone as shown. [/quote] If you mean like the diagram below then when the tone pot is fully up the resistance of the tone pot will be in parallel with the capacitor rather than being in series (as standard). I'm not sure what effect this has but the cap isn't connected to ground so the signal should retain treble. When the tone pot is fully rolled off the capacitor is effectively bypassed so there will be no treble roll off. Does the tone control in your Columbus actually work?! [attachment=141626:jazz-bass-std.jpg]

[quote name='Stan_da_man' timestamp='1376424737' post='2173883'] I've tried TI rounds before and the tension was too low for my liking - how do the flats compare? [/quote] Not tried TI rounds so can't compare but I've been using the same set of TI flats on my fretless for the last three years and just love the feel. They are significantly lower tension than chromes but don't feel at all floppy to me. Depends what your used to though I guess and what you're after. Total string tension for a 4 string set of TI flats is 140.2 lbs. Tension for a roughly equivalent set of chromes (40-60-80-100) is 165 lbs if that's any help.

TI s- but I expect you know that already!

'Post EQ' generally includes the effects loop but I don't know specifically for the DB751

[quote name='ModLad69' timestamp='1375849710' post='2166406'] Neither link stated the d.c. resistance (output) of Wal pups though. [/quote] It says this about resistance in the second link - "[color=#333333][font=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif][size=3]Each coil has 10,000 turns of 42, and reads about 2.5k. On the model I have here, there are eight coils, with each row of four in series. So each row is 10k." So total DC resistance in this example is 20k. [/size][/font][/color]

Don't know but Wal pickups have a different construction to regular humbuckers - bit more info here (bottom part of page): [url="http://walbassist.blogspot.co.uk/2006/09/wal-bass-preamp-theres-no-big-mystery.html"]http://walbassist.bl...ig-mystery.html[/url] This thread here talks about Wal pickup resistance (starts halfway down first page) and how the muiltiple coil construction makes it difficult to compare them directly with other pickups. [url="http://music-electronics-forum.com/t28235/"]http://music-electronics-forum.com/t28235/[/url]

I believe Newtone strings can make up custom sets so they may be worth contacting - [url="http://www.newtonestrings.com/"]http://www.newtonestrings.com[/url]

The pre on my series 1 is fine, maybe just a tiny bit of hiss when treble is fully boosted, otherwise quiet. Pickups definitely don't hum when solo'd. Only thing which is a bit of an acquired taste with the series 1 pre is the three position mid switch rather than a sweepable mid. I tend to leave it in the mid boost position and use the pickup blend to adjust how it sits in the mix.

Can't find a service manual for the TRB series I but the TRB series II manual (with circuit diagram) can be found here: [url="http://www.yamaha.com/yamahavgn/Documents/Guitars/TRB5II_5IIF_E.pdf"]http://www.yamaha.co...B5II_5IIF_E.pdf[/url] TRB5P series I circuit diagramd and parts list can be found here: [url="http://s55.photobucket.com/user/i2k92/media/schemo/cdtrb456p.jpg.html"]http://s55.photobuck...rb456p.jpg.html[/url] [url="http://s55.photobucket.com/user/i2k92/media/schemo/cdtrb456pcmp.jpg.html"]http://s55.photobuck...56pcmp.jpg.html[/url] This post on TB is about pickup wiring for the TRB 1005 and mentions a dummy coil. Not sure if this is relevant to the series I or your particular issue: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/yamaha-trb-1005-aguilar-preamp-wiring-issues-572756/"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/yamaha-trb-1005-aguilar-preamp-wiring-issues-572756/[/url] Realise none of this is what you really need but on the offchance it may be of some help.

My pair of siblings - both '72, oly white/blond, close serial numbers, beautifully worn in! [url="http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/iankay/media/IMG_0626.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/iankay/media/IMG_0629.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/iankay/media/IMG_0636.jpg.html"][/url]

I'm with Pete. Here's another scientific explanation on how friction is developed. Not my words but makes sense to me. The last para is analogous to skin (soft rubbery material) sliding on a gloss surface. Just another tuppence to add to the debate! "There are essentially two components of friction that create the horizontal/lateral forces that occur in sliding. The first is an interaction between the peaks and troughs inherent in the micro roughness and indeed macro roughness of the two sliding surfaces. These peaks are sometimes referred to as asperities. It is a form of interlocking of the surfaces which requires a particular level of force to overcome it. The second component of friction is a molecular adhesion between the two surfaces. Whilst not a major component in very rough surfaces, it becomes the major component when the surfaces are smooth, and in particular when one surface is rubber or plastic. With a smooth surface such as glass and a very slightly damp, soft rubber (the slight dampness appears to enhance the adhesion) one can achieve far higher values of µ than can be obtained with even the roughest surfaces."

[quote name='mart' timestamp='1375010722' post='2155653'] I'm sorry, but this is not correct.... [/quote] Oh well, it seemed reasonable to me! In that case I'll join the rest of you and say I haven't got a clue

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1374996937' post='2155494'] Can someone please explain the physics behind this? [/quote] A gloss neck feels 'sticky' not because of its finishing material, but because it is a perfectly flat surface.. There's maximum contact with your hand and therefore more friction when you move your hand along the neck. A satin finish has tiny imperfections that reduce friction because your hand has slightly less contact with the neck surface. The stickiness factor is accentuated by hot and sweaty conditions. A small amount of sweat increases hand contact with the neck and makes it feel stickier. Loads of sweat (to the extent that it's pouring off you) will act as a lubricant by creating a film between your hand and the neck and make it feel slicker. That's the theory anyway! In practice some gloss finishes do feel less sticky than others but a satin finish will generally feel slicker. With unfinished necks it depends how it's been finished. This is usually some combination of oil and wax which can soften and feel sticky in hot conditions.

This may sound a bit daft but try reversing the saddle (move G end to E) and see if that makes a difference to the E output. If the E sounds better it proves that adjusting the geometry of the saddle in some way is part of the solution. It's just a diagnostic exercise, put it back afterwards! Having said that, I had a piezo bass that arrived with the saddle in backwards which completely messed up the string balance. Flipped it round and that fixed the problem.

First thing I'd do is remove the screw and see if the thread on the screw itself is stripped or if it's the threads inside the hole. If the screw is buggered it's probably easier to replace that than having to tap a new thread in the hole.

[quote name='Coilte' timestamp='1374858909' post='2154199'] They look like TI (Thomastik/Infeld) jazz flats to me. [/quote] TIs have red silk at the ball end and don't have a tapered B. That's probably the biggest clue - which flats.have a tapered B? Re Status strings, my halfwounds had black silk at both ends but not sure about their flats.

This is a '69 P (pic from andy baxters inventory) with the D tuner also closer to the edge than usual so that's not necessarily a warning sign. The strap button looks way out to me though. I've seen slight variations in positioning but not this extreme. If everything else checks out then this may be a later addition. The strap button was discontinued sometime in 1969 according to the Fender Bass book. [attachment=139633:69 P bass.jpg]

Hi Drakers, The correct Fender (USA) bridge screw is a #5 x 1" which is consistent with the replacement screw in your pic. I've also checked this against the screws for a spare Fender bridge that I've got. The MIJ screw for some reason looks to be the next size up (#6) but is slightly shorter than 1" which is a bit odd. If you definitely only want to replace one screw then my best guess for the screw spec that you need is #6 x 1" oval countersunk phillips head. Finding these screws won't be easy though (I've had a quick look) and if you do they almost certainly won't be an exact match for the original screws. They'll be from a different supplier and there.are usually small variations in how the oval head and phillips slot look. My advice would be the same as grissle above - replace all five - either with new #6 x 1" (if you can find them) or with the Fender replacements. If the hole is slightly oversized for the Fender screws then just use a trimmed down cocktail stick or something similar to make it a tighter fit. That will work fine. If you want to check the screw sizes for yourself then this chart will help - http://hingedummy.info/screwinfopage2.htm Good luck!