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ikay

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Everything posted by ikay

  1. Can you post a pic of the pot you're looking for? From your original description, the closest I've found so far is this one but it's the wrong value (50k): [url="http://www.wilderdavoli.it/app/prodotto.jsp?tipo=2&IdC=321&IdS=0&prod=p&id_prodotto=1043&id_categoria=71&prod=p&css="]http://www.wilderdavoli.it/app/prodotto.jsp?tipo=2&IdC=321&IdS=0&prod=p&id_prodotto=1043&id_categoria=71&prod=p&css=[/url]
  2. Wierd, nylons usually reduce string squeak. Was your bass amp mic'd up and was the feedback coming from your amp or through the pa? If through the pa then did you try tweaking the eq on the desk to notch out the feedback?
  3. The D'Addario string tension guide is a useful reference to get an idea of overall load on the neck with particular gauges and tunings: [url="http://daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf"]http://daddario.com/...chart_13934.pdf[/url] See page 10, right hand column for XL nickel roundwound tensions at various tunings. This gives the following loadings: 40-60-80-100 at standard tuning - total string tension = 155.1 lbs 40-60-80-100 at drop D tuning - total string tension = 123.1 lbs 45-65-85-105 at standard tuning - total string tension = 182.8 lbs 45-65-85-105 at drop D tuning - total string tension = 145.1 lbs 50-70-90-110 at standard tuning - total string tension = 214.1 lbs 60-80-100-125 at drop D tuning - total string tension = 216 lbs Using 60-125 gauge tuned up to drop D is roughly equivalent in tension to using a heavy set of 50-110 gauge at standard tuning. The neck should take it but you'll be significantly increasing the load so truss rod will definitely need to be tweaked. Personally I'd use a more regular gauge and tune down rather than tune up a 60-125 set. The oversize nut slots may well rattle a bit with standard gauge strings. Only way to find out is to test it. Never know it may work OK.
  4. Depends on the bass and the strings as BRX says. I use a fairly light gauge on my SR5 (Picato 40-60-80-100-125). On the other hand my TRB5 prefers a 130 B. Experiment a bit and see what works best and what you prefer. It's really the only way.
  5. See pic below. In earlier TRBs the 'mid' control has three positions instead of being a standard swept boost/cut control. - First position is off/flat. - EQ1 gives a mid cut/scoop. The level of cut is fixed but the frequency centre can be adjusted inside the control cavity. - EQ2 gives a mid boost (or cut). Both the frequency centre and the level of boost (or cut) can be adjusted inside the control cavity. [attachment=136468:TRB controls.jpg]
  6. Well spotted! The RBX170EW also has a flamed mango top. [url="http://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Yamaha-RBX170EW-Exotic-Wood-Bass-Guitar-Natural/IJM?"]http://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Yamaha-RBX170EW-Exotic-Wood-Bass-Guitar-Natural/IJM?[/url]
  7. [url="http://tonewooddatasource.weebly.com/wood-details-m.html"]http://tonewooddatasource.weebly.com/wood-details-m.html[/url] [b]Mango Mangifera Indica[/b] A beautiful Hawaiian Hardwood. A medium to large tree that frequently grows to around 50-65 feet in height and 2-3 feet in diameter. Mango is hard, moderately heavy, works easily and sands beautifully making wonderful furniture and musical instruments. Others have said it is soft, go figure. It can also attract bugs (probably not a problem in a finished guitar!). The wood has a good bright tone similar to Hawaiian koa, dry and crisp. It is much harder to find quality wood though, as much is too soft and cannot be cut thin enough. (from "Forgotten Woods") "Mango boasts an unusual and attractive appearance. The figure of mango consists of several anomalies including moderate curl, swirl, and spalting. This combined to the highly varied grain makes Mango a very decorative and interesting wood for backboards and rims. Mango weighs 40 pounds per cubic foot and provides a good mid-range response. Wormholes are common and add to the attractive features of this wood (the wormholes should be filled prior to finishing)."
  8. Hmm, in the bottom pic it looks like you've dispensed wiith the sled completely for the G, D an A strings, or am I not seeing that properly? Assuming the action will be low enough with the sled and a lower profile insert, then I'd just go with your 'reverse nut' shape. Or how about a sort of inverted 'L' with a sloping tail to maximise string contact like this: [attachment=136287:saddle shape.jpg]
  9. If it's a bolt on, how about shimming the neck to accommodate the taller bridge? Can you post a pic of the bridge you'll be using.
  10. The last two posts in this thread are interesting re ideal design for a string anchor point (which apparently isn't a traditional saddle): [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f18/bridge-saddle-design-question-26739/"]http://www.talkbass....question-26739/[/url] This link may be more useful: [url="http://www.esomogyi.com/principles.html"]http://www.esomogyi....principles.html[/url] It refers to acoustic guitar design but the principle of energy transference from the saddle is the same. See the third diagram down. This shows how the shape on the left with a vertical witness point followed by a broader rounded surface provides better string contact and more efficient energy transfer. For example, something like the pic below (KSM Foundation bridge) - [url="http://www.ksmguitars.com/bridge.html"]http://www.ksmguitars.com/bridge.html[/url] [attachment=136252:KSM Foundation Bridge.jpg] Through body stringing with this sort of design may provide even greater saddle contact and energy transference.
  11. Hmm, yes i suspected it came in rosewood only. Maple was definitely an option for the Precision Plus though. [attachment=135864:Fender Precision Plus.jpg]
  12. Thanks Stacker. Friend of mine is after a black/maple '89 jazz and I just wanted to check that such a thing existed! Cheers
  13. Made 1989 to 1994. All the pictures I've seen have rosewood boards. Does anyone know if these were also made with a maple board?
  14. According to this article in Premier Guitar magazine it's just one of those unexplained Fender oddities - [url="http://www.premierguitar.com/Magazine/Issue/2008/Dec/Wow_Thats_Weird_Part_II.aspx"]http://www.premiergu...rd_Part_II.aspx[/url] "This next little bout of weirdness I see all the time: the serial number on the plate of a Bass V is typically in the 600000 range of 1975 or so. No one seems to know why they used this serial number starting in the sixties on the Bass V neck plate."
  15. This post on TB says the set screw size is 4-40 UNC - [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f18/badass-ii-replacement-saddle-982794/"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f18/badass-ii-replacement-saddle-982794/[/url] Major diameter of a 4-40 screw is 0.112" if that helps,
  16. For anyone who might be interested. [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]In response to a thread about the 'sweet spot' on the 'general' forum I've drawn up a couple of graphics showing string vibrations of the first 7 harmonics and some common pickup positions. Purpose of this was to help visualise the harmonic content being sensed by different pickup positions and how this varied from open to fretted notes.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The vertical line for each pickup shows how much of each harmonic is being sensed. For example, in the first diagran, a J neck pickup gets a good dose of the first four harmonics of an open string but hardly any of the higher harmonics. By contrast, the bridge pickup gets a much more even spread but with less lower harmonics and more higher harmonics.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The first diagram shows vibrations for an open string. The second shows vibrations for a string fretted at the 12th fret. This clearly shows that the mix of harmonics being sensed by the pickup is substantially different for open and fretted notes.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]For ref the pickup position measurements are as follows (all measured from nut):[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]J neck - 27.9"[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]J bridge (60s) - 31.45"[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]J bridge (70s) - 31.84"[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]P bass (centreline) - 28.61 "[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Stingray (centreline) - 30.5"[/font][/color] [attachment=135413:string harmonics + pickup position 1.jpg] [attachment=135414:string harmonics + pickup position 2.jpg]
  17. Here's a pic of my 72 P showing the original olympic white under the pickguard. The body has aged to a rich honey blonde over 40 years of use and exposure to - well just about everything I guess! I don't know how much lighter the patch on your strat is to the main colour but using the method you suggest to burn it in would probably take you several years, or maybe decades!! [attachment=135412:P1020708.jpg]
  18. You might be mad, but you're not alone ... - [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/musicman-mm-jazz-pickups-same-bass-748258/"]http://www.talkbass....me-bass-748258/[/url] - [url="http://forums.fender.com/viewtopic.php?t=43019"]http://forums.fender...pic.php?t=43019[/url] [attachment=135252:Jazz-MM 1.jpg] [attachment=135253:jazz-MM 2.jpg] [attachment=135254:jazz-MM 3.jpg]
  19. I;ve drawn up a couple of graphics showing string vibrations of the first 7 harmonics and some common pickup positions. The vertical line for each pickup shows how much of each harmonic is being sensed. For example, in the first diagran, a J neck pickup gets a good dose of the first four harmonics but hardly any of the higher harmonics. By contrast, the bridge pickup gets a much more even spread but with less lower harmonics and more higher harmonics. The first diagram shows vibrations for an open string. The second shows vibrations for a string fretted at the 12th fret. This clearly shows that the mix of harmonics being sensed by the pickup is substantially different for open and fretted notes. For ref the pickup position measurements are as follows (all measured from nut): J neck - 27.9" J bridge (60s) - 31.45" J bridge (70s) - 31.84" P bass (centreline) - 28.61 " Stingray (centreline) - 30.5" [attachment=135170:string harmonics + pickup position 1.jpg] [attachment=135171:string harmonics + pickup position 2.jpg]
  20. [quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1368791726' post='2081541'] Wish he would shush and play the thing. [/quote] +++1 !!! What make of bass is this (I couldn't catch what he said at the start)?
  21. Thanks apa. I've just bought a 4-string set from BassDirect and will use a roundwound B for the moment. Will message this chap though and see if he can get hold of the 5-string set. I see that GHS also sell packs of single B strings so will enquire about those as well. Cheers
  22. Feedback from Stringbusters is that the UK distributor (Strings & Things) have no stock of pressurewound 5-string sets and don't expect any for at least 6-8 weeks. Basically sounds like a special order item with a long delivery time.
  23. [quote name='apa' timestamp='1368483613' post='2077721'] I think I actually got a set a while ago direct from the US on ebay. You dont incure any taxes from what I remember either. [/quote] Unfortunately they're getting much more vigilant on imports of small items these days. There have been a few mentions on BC of things such as strings being hit with VAT and duty plus a flat £8 handling fee from the Royal Mail. Some get through but others don't. I've been in contact with Stringbusters and they're checking availability with the UK distributor. If they can't get them then I'll take my chances with ebay.
  24. Thanks both, I'll call stringsdirect tomorrow and see if they can get hold of them. Will report back in case anyone else is interested.
  25. I'm after a 5-string set.but having difficulty finding anyone who stocks them over here (BassDirect only stock 4-string sets). Does anyone know where to get these in the UK or Europe?
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