ikay

Never heard back so probably best to be wary of this one

I'll message the seller and see what they've got to say.

This ad on Gumtree .... http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/1987-tobias-basic-5-string-fretless-bass-natural/1009687154 ... uses the exact same picture as this ad on Music Zoo (NY, USA) http://www.themusiczoo.com/product/17521/1987-Tobias-Basic-5-String-Fretless-Bass-Natural---Used/ Does anyone here know whether the Gumtree ad is a scam or a genuine sale?

As far as I can see there isn't one - http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=6

I asked them a couple more questions, replies below: Q. Does the piezo bridge produce an audio signal that can be amplified and used like a regular piezo bass? I realise that the convolution process is what makes it sound like a double bass but I wondered whether it also had a natural sound of its own (ie. without having to go through the external software). [b]A. The bass can be amplified like a normal piezobass. But you need phantom power to do so. A mixing table usually has that option. But you need the ASIO card with laptop and software to get the double bass sound like the sample. The bass itself has a very lownoise preamp. And you can mix the fingerboard sound with the piezo bridge sound. The fingerboard has a piezo too. Important for doublebass sounds. That's why the fingerboard is longer then usual on our bass. The bass has 2 volume potmeters. 1 for the bridge, one for the fingerboard.[/b] Q. Is all of the convolution signal processing done externally or are there also onboard electronics? [b]A. All signal processing is done external.[/b] Q. Does it use regular bass strings? [b]A. Flatwound strings or rope cords can be delivered. The rope cords are real double bass strings. When roundwounds are used you'll get a sound not like a double bass.[/b]

I emailed Convolution Basses for more info. Their instruments are mainly built to order and cost from 1,100 Euros up. The bass uses the principle of 'convolution' and recorded 'impulse responses' from a real double bass. This impulse response is then applied to the natural sound coming from the piezo bass to create the sound that you hear. The processing is done externally to the bass using a laptop and software. This extract from the wikipedia entry on convolution (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convolution) says it better: "In electronic music convolution is the imposition of a spectral or rhythmic structure on a sound. Often this envelope or structure is taken from another sound. The convolution of two signals is the filtering of one through the other."

I play 34" (occasionally 35") and 30", fretted and fretless, 4 and 5 string in different bands. It takes a few minutes to recalibrate but isn't a problem. Mind you I only play one or the other with each band. I'd probably get messed up a bit swapping between them in the same gig. I should stress that I'm not some sort of bass god - so anybody can do it. Different basses are good for different situations, don't let something like scale length put you off using a bass if it delivers the sound you need.

The Fodera Hollowbody caught my attention [attachment=126080:Fodera Hollowbody.jpg]

I've emailed them. If I get a response will post it here. In the meantime NAMM is now underway so maybe some more news will come from that direction.

Does anyone know if these are available yet or when they will be? Was due to be autumn last year but I can't find much about them since the launch at NAMM 2012. (http://news.thinkns.com/?p=1572) [attachment=126004:NS Bass.jpg]

Here are some measurements for industry standard sweet spots (measured from the centre of the 12th fret to the centre of the polepieces) MM Stringray 5 - 332mm neck coil / 356mm bridge coil Fender Jazz (60s spacing) - 277mm neck / 367mm bridge Fender Jazz (70s spacing) - 277mm neck / 377mm bridge Fender Precision - 281mm G D coil / 309mm A E coil

Passive MEC pups should work with most pre's. Take a look at the 'Bass Preamp' section here for some ideas - http://www.bestbassgear.com/aguilar-preamp.htm

Thomann have them in stock - [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/markbass_rack_mount.htm"]http://www.thomann.d..._rack_mount.htm[/url] GAK also showing as next day delivery which usually means they are in stock - [url="http://www.gak.co.uk/en/-kit-little-mark-rack-ears/34657"]http://www.gak.co.uk...rack-ears/34657[/url]

California specs say hardware is by Sandberg but tuners look very similar to Schaller BMs. Technical drawing of the BM with dimensions available here: - [url="http://bass-mechaniken.de/hp134995/Bass-Mechanik-BM.htm?ITServ=CY196991e9X13c297f8af3XY7c6e#tab_tz"]http://bass-mechanik...f3XY7c6e#tab_tz[/url] If the critical dimensions are the same then a Hipshot BT1 drop-D tuner might drop in. UPDATE - just found this post on BC: - http://basschat.co.uk/topic/53615-bt1-drop-d-tuner/

DiMarzio Model One or Will Power are a similar shape but with different pole pieces: I don't know if they're a direct replacement but may be worth a closer look. - [url="http://www.dimarzio.com/pickups/bass/standard-bass/model-one"]http://www.dimarzio....-bass/model-one[/url] - [url="http://www.dimarzio.com/pickups/bass/standard-bass/model-one"]http://www.dimarzio....-bass/model-one[/url]

To get period correct saddles with slotted grub screws you'll need a Fender '75 reissue bridge like this: - [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/bridge-assembly-vintage-75-jazz-bass-genuine-fender-p-4518.html"]http://www.allparts....der-p-4518.html[/url] Most cheap non-US 'jazz type' bridges will have saddles with metric screw threads, vintage US fender bridges have imperial UNC 6/32 thread.

Just bought an SKB rack case from Chris. Great communication, quick delivery, well packed, very good condition. Hassle free transaction and a pleasure to do business with. Many thanks Chris!

Check out this thread - http://basschat.co.uk/topic/96978-stingray-pickup-problem-g-string/

WD Music in the US do one - http://www.wdmusic.com/pickguard_jbgl_300.html Can't find it on their UK site (www.wdmusic.co.uk) but might be worth contacting them

An old post about them here - http://basschat.co.uk/topic/123801-ruach-basses/

Extract below is from this website - http://www.pantheonguitars.com/tonewoods.htm [font="Arial"][b]Fretboards and Bridges[/b] Players of electric guitars with bolt-on necks have long been hip to the fact that neck and fretboard materials can have a significant bearing on tone. Maple necks can impart a bright, poppy tone that can do much to reinforce the top end of a large-bodied guitar, while mahogany necks help push the overall palette into a warmer, more woody tonal range. Fretboard materials also exert an influence on overall tone, although they probably act more as icing on the cake than as a layer of the cake itself. Brazilian rosewood fretboards and their denser rainforrest counterparts add sparkle and ring, and Indian rosewood fretboards can help fatten up the midrange. Wenge, a dense, dark-colored African hardwood unrelated to the rosewoods, has tonal properties remarkably similar to those of Brazilian rosewood. Ebony, the traditional fingerboard material found on violins, classical guitars, and high-end steel strings, has the lowest velocity of sound of all the woods commonly used in lutherie and has definite damping characteristics. This may not prove to be much of a problem for large-bodied guitars made out of red spruce or Brazilian rosewood, but it may be something to consider when designing smaller guitars, particularly those using some of the less resonant woods for tops and backs. [b]Bridge materials, like fretboards, cannot make or break an instrument, but they serve to enhance or edit the tonal contributions of other materials found on the guitar. The woods discussed above-ebony, Brazilian rosewood, and Indian rosewood-contribute similar tonal qualities when they are used as bridge materials as when they are used for fretboards.[/b][/font]

Some comments on flats for Stingrays - [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f16/stingray-flats-586719/"]http://www.talkbass....y-flats-586719/[/url] YouTube vid demoing Galli, Chromes and LaBella flats on a Stingray - [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUB4N3HpwB8[/media] YouTube vid comparing D'Addario rounds and flats on a Stingray - [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VA_KrCDjbV4[/media] Status half-wound strings are also worth a try, very similar feel to flats, slightly brighter to start with but play in very nicely.

Magnetic strength of polepieces is generally even across the pickup. Individual polepieces can sometimes weaken over time but getting them remagnetized is a simple job for a repair shop. Or you can get a set of DIY repair magnets from StewMac like this: - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Clamps,_support_tools/Guitar_Repair_Magnet_Kit.html Instructions on how to do this are towards the bottom of this page: - http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Electronics/Pickup_building/i-5967.html

I don't own a 424 or 1024 so can't compare in the flesh but the pickup mountings look very similar to me. [attachment=125794:Yamaha 424 + 1024.jpg] I reckon it's a reasonable bet that they'd be a straight swap. The two halves of the pickup will be separate (to allow separate adjustment). The 424 bridge has a 5 screw mounting and the 1024 looks to have a 3 screw mounting so that may involve some drilling and positioning.