ikay

According to Guitar Parts Resource, ferrules for Fender American basses (part no 004-8604-049) are 1/2" external diameter (12.7mm). [url="http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/bass_ferrules.htm"]http://www.guitarpar...ss_ferrules.htm[/url]

This one from Atlansia takes individual pickups per string to a new level - [url="http://www.atlansia.jp/OXFORD.html"]http://www.atlansia.jp/OXFORD.html[/url] [attachment=129547:Atlansia Oxford.JPG]

It's an interesting point but essentially the string sound you hear with your ears is the same sound that is 'heard' by the pickup. Whether it sounds zingy or dull is all to do with the harmonic content being produced by the vibrating string. A new set of rounds for example will have lots of high harmonic content. If you damp these with your hand you will lose some of the higher harmonics. Similarly if you play nearer the bridge or over the neck the harmonic content changes. An old set of rounds will lose some of the high harmonics and sound deader. Flats have less high harmonic content than rounds and so on. When the string wobbles back and forth through the magnetic flux, the signal generated by the pickup is a mix of all the harmonics being generated by the string [u]at the exact position directly over the pickup[/u]. This last bit is crucial. Pickups in different positions will 'hear' a different set of harmonics. If a pickup has more than one coil (eg. wide aperture humbucker) then each coil will hear slightly different harmonics. The different signals generated by each coil will interact and act as a filter with some harmonics being cancelled out and others accentuated. Similarly if the bass has more than one pickup. It's a complex cocktail of harmonic inputs and outputs! This article on how pickups work explains it more clearly than I can - http://www.aqdi.com/pickups.htm

I think you need a 1/16" key for standard US bridge saddles

Thanks Dingus and Mudpup. I prefer the non-X version which seems to be more scarce than the X. BassDirect are only showing one 1025X in stock (no 1025s), but I've contacted Mark and he's checking what's in the pipeline. He's confirmed that they're still current, just in short supply. I'll also check with Chappels, they're a bit less of a treck than Warwick and less dangerous for someone with even moderate GAS to visit than BD!

I'm interested in trying one of these (ideally the version without the pickguard and control plate) but stocks seem to be generally pretty scarce and a few sites (such as Thomann) are saying no longer available.. Are they still part of the current product range or about to be discontinued does anyone know?

I believe it needs an 8mm hex wrench like this - [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Guitar-Truss-Rod-Wrench-Luthier-Tool-for-Gibson-PRS-etc-8mm-/120986001082"]http://www.ebay.co.u...m-/120986001082[/url]

OK, the rotary switch positions are as follows: 1. fully counter-clockwise - flat 2. middle position - slap contour (EQ01). This has a fixed level of cut/scoop at the selected frequency. Use the adjustment wheel to select the frequency. 3. fully clockwise - mid boost/cut (EQ02). Use the adjustment wheel to select the frequency. Use the trim pot to adjust the required amount of boost (or cut). Default settings for the EQ01 and EQ02 frequencies are with the wheel marker in the middle. This gives a good sound to my ears but play around to find the settings that work best for you.

This thread on TalkBass provides more info on the pickup wiring (see last post at bottom of page). - http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/yamaha-trb-original-pups-glock-3-band-pre-855014/ What do you mean when you say 'what does the boost on the original preamp do'? The original preamp has bass cut/boost, treble cut/boost and a three position switch which selects a mid boost (this can be preset within the control cavity), a slap countour (again adjustable within the cavity) and a flat setting. If you remove the control plate on the back of the bass there should be instructions printed inside indicating how to adjust these preset sounds.

[quote name='fendurt' timestamp='1361531970' post='1986988'] doeas any of you know that de pickups are dual-coil. does that mean I can install a switch and split the coil? [/quote] TRB soapbar pickups are dual coil but configured as a single coil plus a phantom coil (to eliminate the hum). You can't split the coil as in a regular humbucker.

Good to hear you got that sorted. What did they say the problem was and do you know what they did to get rid of the dead spot and get it playing so much better?

Never heard back so probably best to be wary of this one

I'll message the seller and see what they've got to say.

This ad on Gumtree .... http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/1987-tobias-basic-5-string-fretless-bass-natural/1009687154 ... uses the exact same picture as this ad on Music Zoo (NY, USA) http://www.themusiczoo.com/product/17521/1987-Tobias-Basic-5-String-Fretless-Bass-Natural---Used/ Does anyone here know whether the Gumtree ad is a scam or a genuine sale?

As far as I can see there isn't one - http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=6

I asked them a couple more questions, replies below: Q. Does the piezo bridge produce an audio signal that can be amplified and used like a regular piezo bass? I realise that the convolution process is what makes it sound like a double bass but I wondered whether it also had a natural sound of its own (ie. without having to go through the external software). [b]A. The bass can be amplified like a normal piezobass. But you need phantom power to do so. A mixing table usually has that option. But you need the ASIO card with laptop and software to get the double bass sound like the sample. The bass itself has a very lownoise preamp. And you can mix the fingerboard sound with the piezo bridge sound. The fingerboard has a piezo too. Important for doublebass sounds. That's why the fingerboard is longer then usual on our bass. The bass has 2 volume potmeters. 1 for the bridge, one for the fingerboard.[/b] Q. Is all of the convolution signal processing done externally or are there also onboard electronics? [b]A. All signal processing is done external.[/b] Q. Does it use regular bass strings? [b]A. Flatwound strings or rope cords can be delivered. The rope cords are real double bass strings. When roundwounds are used you'll get a sound not like a double bass.[/b]

I emailed Convolution Basses for more info. Their instruments are mainly built to order and cost from 1,100 Euros up. The bass uses the principle of 'convolution' and recorded 'impulse responses' from a real double bass. This impulse response is then applied to the natural sound coming from the piezo bass to create the sound that you hear. The processing is done externally to the bass using a laptop and software. This extract from the wikipedia entry on convolution (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convolution) says it better: "In electronic music convolution is the imposition of a spectral or rhythmic structure on a sound. Often this envelope or structure is taken from another sound. The convolution of two signals is the filtering of one through the other."

I play 34" (occasionally 35") and 30", fretted and fretless, 4 and 5 string in different bands. It takes a few minutes to recalibrate but isn't a problem. Mind you I only play one or the other with each band. I'd probably get messed up a bit swapping between them in the same gig. I should stress that I'm not some sort of bass god - so anybody can do it. Different basses are good for different situations, don't let something like scale length put you off using a bass if it delivers the sound you need.

The Fodera Hollowbody caught my attention [attachment=126080:Fodera Hollowbody.jpg]

I've emailed them. If I get a response will post it here. In the meantime NAMM is now underway so maybe some more news will come from that direction.

Does anyone know if these are available yet or when they will be? Was due to be autumn last year but I can't find much about them since the launch at NAMM 2012. (http://news.thinkns.com/?p=1572) [attachment=126004:NS Bass.jpg]

Here are some measurements for industry standard sweet spots (measured from the centre of the 12th fret to the centre of the polepieces) MM Stringray 5 - 332mm neck coil / 356mm bridge coil Fender Jazz (60s spacing) - 277mm neck / 367mm bridge Fender Jazz (70s spacing) - 277mm neck / 377mm bridge Fender Precision - 281mm G D coil / 309mm A E coil

Passive MEC pups should work with most pre's. Take a look at the 'Bass Preamp' section here for some ideas - http://www.bestbassgear.com/aguilar-preamp.htm