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Everything posted by ikay
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Bought from garymac on BC earlier this year (April) for an 'acoustic' project which has now run its course so back up for sale. Very nice little bass this. Small and light (7.8 lbs) with a big sound. Neck pup is full and round, centre pup adds a bit more mid and bite. Has a woody (sorry, unavoidable pun) semi-acoustic vibe. Excellent condition, neck and frets in very good shape, everything works as it should. Some minor tarnishing to the gold plating. Only blemish I can find is a small crack/dent in the finish round the foot of one of the bridge posts. I've tried to show this in the last pic but it's a bit difficult to see. Bridge is solid so purely cosmetic and not noticeable unless you look for it. Comes with a no-name hard case, also in very good condition. Spec: Year - serial number dates it as 2003 Scale - 30” Body - chambered mahogany Finish - translucent red Fretboard - rosewood Fingerboard radius - 14” Nut width - 1.62” Pickups - 2 x NYT Bass mini humbuckers Hardware - gold plated Bridge - 3 point adjustable £200 collected or plus delivery (£25 UK only) Viewing welcome (near Horsham, West Sussex) [attachment=123289:P1010002.jpg][attachment=123290:P1010003.jpg] [attachment=123291:P1010004.jpg][attachment=123292:P1010005.jpg] [attachment=123293:P1010007.jpg][attachment=123294:P1010013.jpg] [attachment=123295:P1010056.jpg]
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This has probably answered 10,000 times, but......
ikay replied to weepaul's topic in Repairs and Technical
If the neck is already straight then don't tightem the trussrod to try and bring the action down. Is it a set neck or a bolt on? If it's a bolt on then the first thing to try would be shimming the neck. If it's a set neck then, as the action is high at the top end of the board, the best place to try and adjust it lower would be to file down the saddle. Not hard to do, just make a line indicating how much you want to take off and do it in small steps. Make sure you file the bottom of the saddle on a dead flat surface (the bottom of the saddle needs to be flat to make good contact with the under saddle transducer). Can you post a close up pic of the bridge/saddle? This will give a better idea of how much adjustment you might be able to get at that end. -
As a guide, this one was up for sale on this forum last year for £150 - http://basschat.co.uk/topic/135150-ibanez-rs940-sold/
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Looking for Fender bridge intonation screw
ikay replied to Paultrader's topic in Repairs and Technical
simenschi, the Allparts screws are standard 1 1/2" length. If you're in the UK drop me a pm with your address and I'll post you a couple of longer 1 3/4" screws. You should only need them for the G and D strings. -
[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1351686710' post='1854115'] [url="http://www.bunkerguitars.com"]Still working for me[/url] [/quote] Hmm, so it is! Bit wierd, wasn't working earlier, maybe the server just dropped out for a bit.
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[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1351677942' post='1853970'] Here's another one, the 'floating neck' used by Treker and Henman. [/quote] This uses the Bunker tension free neck mentioned above. The old bunkerguitars.com website seems to be dead so I guess they've now teamed up withTreker.
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At this price someone should buy themselves an early Christmas present. The Mk1 TRB5 is a quality bass. I've had mine over 12 years and it's still a regular gigging companion. A few years ago I made the mistake of trading it in for something. Went back a couple of days later and got it straight back! Great bass.
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[quote name='decify123' timestamp='1351623464' post='1853428'] Hello! I know this is a very old thread but is there any chance anyone could direct me to the Fender pdf listed in Ikay's comment above? Im a final year engineering student and research into alternative neck reinforcement is my final year project. Thanks. [/quote] PM'd
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Mackie SRM450s? Good quality kit and built to last. Been gigging mine (older V1 models) for over 10 years and still going strong.
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Any tips on how to hear yourself when you play fretless live ?.
ikay replied to a topic in General Discussion
[quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1351555846' post='1852696'] Buy the guitarist a working tuner. [/quote] +1 haha nothing like the guitarist tuning themselves to a randomly selected string to mess with your head on fretless -
"Norm Stockton: When I’m slapping, my fingers have a tendency to get stuck under the strings if there’s too much room between the string and the top of the bass. I guess I have bony fingers! :^) So I’ve had all of my basses that I use for slapping fitted with a thin piece of wood (wenge) to reduce that distance." Basically similar to a regular ramp but not quite so close to the strings to allow a little more room for thumbing/popping. Concept is the same - to achieve a more even playing action. Here's a pic of a Nordstrand with a regular ramp (between pups) and a slap ramp (between pup and neck). The slap ramp is set slightly lower than the regular ramp. [attachment=122245:ramps.jpg] Here's a pic of a graduated slap ramp built into the end of the fretboard on a Status Kingbass [attachment=122244:Status Kingbass slap ramp.jpg]
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Four bolt neck and no truss rod wheel which I reckon makes it pre 1990. A few more pics would help and serial number would confirm
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[quote name='geoffbyrne' timestamp='1351013387' post='1846246'] Just replace the stock pups with DiMarzio Model J's wired internally in series - or put a mini switch on them & get parallel too - they sound great in both modes. [/quote] Here's a useful review of the Model Js which gives more detail on the coil configuration and series/parallel switching. http://basschat.co.uk/topic/165194-dimarzio-model-j-dp123/ Separate series/parallel switching for neck and bridge pups should give loads of tonal flexibility and looks like a great option to me. Tempted to try it myself.
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How do you mean add a P to a J? If you want to keep both Jazz pups with standard spacing then adding a P pup will overlap with the J neck pup. If you move the P towards the bridge to fit between the Js then it won't sound like a P anymore. The Fender Stu Hamm Urge has two Js and a P but I don't think any of them are in standard positions. [attachment=121866:J + P bass.jpg]
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[quote name='mart' timestamp='1350575997' post='1840795'] If it's the resonant frequency, then it'd be the same wherever you played that same note, right? [/quote] No, not necessarily. Different resonant frequencies occur in different places along the neck. A dead spot is where the frequency of the fretted note coincides with the antinode of the resonant frequency of the neck at that exact point (or very near). Fretting a note of the same frequency somewhere else on the neck (on a different string) may not result in a dead spot as the resonant frequency of the neck at that point may be different or the position of that fret may not be so close to the antinode. This article explains it much better than I can - [url="http://www.acoustics.org/press/137th/fleischer.html"]http://www.acoustics.../fleischer.html[/url]
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[quote name='Torben Hedstrøm' timestamp='1350488529' post='1839599'] I could probably just raise the action and get rid of it, but I really like my action nice and low. [/quote] Would be worth trying this. If the dead spot does disappear when you raise the action then it's most likely just a slight imperfection with the flatness of the fingerboard (which is relatively easy luthier fix) rather than a dead spot due to structural resonance in the neck (which isn't!).
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[quote name='Spoombung' timestamp='1350120815' post='1834732'] It will pick up the note behind the fretted note - so for example, when you slide up the piezo will pick up the other side of the strings so the note appears to fall or lower in tone as the magnetic pickup or piezo captures the rising note. ( you can hear this at 1.23 on the Soundcloud track during the solo) [/quote] Very intriguing ... thanks
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[quote name='Spoombung' timestamp='1350055078' post='1834128'] Yes, I think that's true. And it's a slightly different concept. [/quote] I'd be interested to know more about the piezo nut concept, what sort of dimension does it add to the sound compared with the piezo bridge? I couldn't really identify it in the sample track
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Excellent, good to hear it's sorted!
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Cosme Basses - new video of new bass ! Check it out! :-)
ikay replied to Xtof's topic in Bass Guitars
[quote name='Xtof' timestamp='1349732434' post='1829930'] ... and the MIDI and jack inserts... [url="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/191/6jackmidi.jpg/"][/url] [/quote] I'd be interested to know how the MIDI function works, can you provide a bit more info on that: - does it have onboard audio-to-MIDI conversion with MIDI out that can plug directly into a MIDI synth module (eg Proteus 2000)? - or does it just generate separate signals for each string via a 13-pin output which is compatible with Roland guitar syths? - does it use the RMC piezo/Polydrive system or the Graphtec piezo/Hexaphonic system or something else? Thanks -
This page from Graphtec lists the overall slot spacing (high string to low string) under each nut type - http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=58 It's shown as 'E to E' (6 string guitar default) but they really mean high to low for bass nuts. Measure the overall slot spacing on your Marcus and CIJ (centre of G nut slot to centre of E nut slot) and compare it with this page to see if there's one here that might be a closer match.
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Some comments on this subject from talkbass here - http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/vintage-jazz-bass-stack-knob-vs-vvt-741038/#post10441608
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attaching a bridge to a body without any holes.
ikay replied to tommorichards's topic in Repairs and Technical
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/bridge-placement-250675/ The 5th post down (from Rodent) might be helpful -
Bit of a rare beast ... - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-1990-ZETA-Prism-Bass-Powerbridge-Original-Case-/251162429345?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3a7a7287a1