ikay

Allparts - http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/guitar-bass-parts/hardware/screws-and-springs/bridge-screws-and-springs/saddlebridge-height-screws-c-277_1_47_69_71_72.html If it's for a Fender USA bass then the saddle screw thread is imperial (UNC 6-32). Standard length is 7/16" but allparts also do 5/16" and 1/4" if you want some a bit shorter. If it's for a non-USA Fender or other type of bass chances are it will be metric (probably M3) but you'll need to match the screw size/thread type.

This post from TB mentions the same problem - http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f16/new-cobalt-strings-878280/ "How does the length of the cobalts stack up against their other sets? I'm digging my new EB 5 string slinkys, but had to string the B and E strings through the bridge on my 35" scale 55-02. It would be cool if the Cobalts were an extra 1/2" longer or so, but I'm guessing that's not the case." "They are not long enough to go through the body on a Lakland. I love the Cobalts on my Warwick, but for whatever reason they did not sound good at all on my Lakland. I have a 5501 though with Barts/Audere, so yours might sound different."

Yes, beautiful isn't it! The metal board does sound surpisingly warm and organic.

[quote name='Gonch1983' timestamp='1346776062' post='1793078'] Are there other methods or fineshes to get a crisper sound from a frettless? [/quote] Metal ... [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Z_MzvaShrU[/media]

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1346780221' post='1793158'] I'd also be wondering why someone like Tom Jenkinson would be selling it. [/quote] Yes I wondered about that!! This one has been at the gallery for quite a long time

[quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1346704930' post='1792260'] Looking for cheap but workable [/quote] 'Cheap' and 'workable' don't go together in the world of midi bass. As BRX says, note recognition and latency is a huge problem for audio/midi conversion at low frequencies. I've tried the Sonuus B2M which is cheap and cheerful but IMO it's not accurate or quick enough to do what you have in mind. The Industrial Radio Midi bass is probably the closest you'll get to a properly workable solution (not that I've tried one - that will have to wait until I win the lottery). It gets round the problem of audio/midi conversion by having a contact matrix beneath the fretboard to determine note values rather than analysing string vibrations. It then uses piezo sensors in the bridge to extract playing dynamics. There's one for sale here - [url="http://www.thebassgallery.com/product_details.cfm?ID=1960&type=Bass%20Guitar"]http://www.thebassga...e=Bass%20Guitar[/url] But you'll need to up your budget a bit!

Might be worth contacting Vintage (JHS) to see if they can help: John Hornby Skewes & Co. Ltd., Salem House, Parkinson Approach, Garforth, Leeds LS25 2HR, United Kingdom. Tel: +44 (0) 1132 865 381 Fax: +44 (0) 1132 868 515 email: [email="[email protected]"][email protected][/email].

I have a nice Epi Allen Woody that will be up for sale shortly, drop me a pm if that's of any interest

Assuming it's all original and not some sort of reliced reissue, on the evidence of the pics alone I'd say it's a '70 or '71, possibly an early '72. Reasoning as follows: - it has single groove saddles which puts it at 1970 or later - it has lower thumb rest which puts it at pre-1974 - it has 60's bridge pickup positioning which puts it at pre-1972

with a start price of £9.99 - [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wal-Lined-Fretless-Bass-Guitar-/290768749051"]http://www.ebay.co.u...r-/290768749051[/url] scam or genuine I wonder ... anyone know the bass or the seller?

This post from Dosi Y'Anarchy might be of interest - http://basschat.co.uk/topic/45796-sold/ Might be easier to replace the standard woofer with a DiMarzio Will Power Neck pickup than find a replacement cover ...

This thread from the fender forum might help - http://www.fender.com/community/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=52682 The Precision V uses the standard HMV bridge which allows adjustable spacing from 19mm to about 22mm. String spacing at the bridge on a Stingray 5 is 17.5mm so the polepieces of a regular MM 5 pickup won't line up properly using the HMV bridge. However, a soapbar type like Bartolini or EMG should work fine.

This pic of a 75 P shows the correct 70s tug bar position: [attachment=116911:75 P bass.jpg] This one (a 73) shows positioning of the screwholes in the pickguard: [attachment=116910:73 P bass.jpg]

Can you unscrew the control plate and post a pic of the underside showing the wiring to the pots? Seeing what's going on there would help. I live about 10 miles from Guildford (on the A281 towards Horsham) so if John can't help you drop me a pm.

This post on the Fender forum is about the same problem - [url="http://www.fender.com/community/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45460"]http://www.fender.co...hp?f=10&t=45460[/url] In this case he swapped the S1 switch out for a regular pot but ultimately discovered that it was a problem with the neck pickup. If the neck pickup is at fault then you should be getting weak or no output when the S1 switch is in series mode. When in parallel mode (standard VVT configuration) you should be getting weak or no signal from the neck pickup only. If you're getting a good strong signal in series mode then it sounds like the neck pickup is OK and the S1 switch/pot is at fault.

I had to repolish the ebanol board on a VMJ fretless a couple of years ago to remove marks from roundwound strings and using paintshop or jewellers finishing materials works very well. Materials listed below. Micromesh polishing paper: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MICRO-MESH-MICROMESH-POLISHING-KIT-9-SHEETS-6-X-4-/320956999050?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item4aba87258a"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4aba87258a[/url] Foam sanding backing pad: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEGUIARS-Hi-Tech-Sanding-Backing-Pad-5-5-E7200A-for-Unigrit-Finishing-Paper-/110886795543?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item19d15e3917"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item19d15e3917[/url] 9.5" radius sanding block: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUTHIERS-FINGERBOARD-RADIUS-SANDING-BLOCKS-/330768016363?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&var=&hash=item4d034f63eb"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4d034f63eb[/url] If the marks are very light just use the foam sanding backing pad and use the finer grades of micromesh polishing papers finishing with the 12000 grit. If the marks are deep then use a radius sanding block and start with the coarser grades then work up through the finer grades. The ebanol will turn a dull gray to start with but the shine will come back when you finish polishing with the finer grades. Be warned that ebanol sands very easily (ie. a little sanding takes off a lot of material) so take it gently and start with a finer grade than you might think. Also wear a face mask as ebanol generates a lot of very fine dust which you shouldn't breath in.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1345014450' post='1772235'] Getting gigs is easy if your band is any good. [/quote] That's a little harsh !! I think it's as much to do with having someone on your side with the necessary drive, persistence, tact, guile, powers of persuasion and personality to make all those cold calls and tramp around the venues to bring the gigs in. That person isn't always someone in the band or easy to find. Being in a good band helps of course!

A bit off topic but Chris Brubeck and his fretless Ric, another unlikely jazzer. Fabulous player [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EySQ2ei1NTA[/media]

Exactly that! Thanks for sharing, it's good to know I'm not alone!

Loads of string reviews on talkbass here if that's of any help in deciding what to try next - [url="http://www.talkbass.com/reviews/showcat.php/cat/17"]http://www.talkbass....wcat.php/cat/17[/url]

[quote name='davebass66' timestamp='1344877596' post='1770549'] ... people reporting problems with low output because of the 2 capacitors ... [/quote] This post on talkbass (about halfway down) explains the technical factors relating to the two extra isolating resistors in the VT VT circuit which result in slightly lower output and some loss of high frequencies compared with the standard VVT circuit - [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/stacked-tone-volume-jazz-bass-401694/"]http://www.talkbass....zz-bass-401694/[/url]

[attachment=115523:66 jazz p;ickups.JPG]

EDIT - As mart says below, use a regular 250k concentric stack pot and wire it up as two separate vols (sorry, what I posted originally about using a blend pot was complete rubbish!!)

A combination of real world speakers and Transcribe (http://www.seventhstring.com/) for the tricky bits. Headphones are much better for hearing the detail of what's going on though, maybe my playing would improve if I used them more