ikay

Toneworks do finished jazz bodies - [url="http://www.toneworks.co.uk/guitar-bodies.html"]http://www.toneworks...tar-bodies.html[/url]. Haven't used them myself but they look good and are reasonably priced.

This fret position calculator is useful if you want to check the position of your existing markers or add some temporary markers with masking tape: http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/fret-and-nut-calculators/fret-calculator/

Using open drone notes along with fingered notes is a useful way to practice getting good intonation and make sure you're not wandering out of tune. Try plucking an open string (eg. low E) and letting it ring. While it's ringing play notes on other strings, using the ringing string as a tonal centre or harmonic anchor. Try to play scales and arpeggios along with the open string and see how in tune you are. This is a good way of training your ears to hear all the intervals (2nds, 3rds, 4ths, 5ths, 6ths, 7ths, 8ves) which will help you to make adjustments and keep in tune when playing more freely. I should really do more of this myself

Sorry for the dud post about the Cortobass, I'll read the title properly next time!

My bad, just found the Warwick/MEC one. Crikey that's one big pot! - [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/mec_m88552.htm?sid=19016689f402e7a3e796f31208037ce2"]http://www.thomann.d...796f31208037ce2[/url]

Passive blend uses a stereo pot. Adding volume would effectively mean having three pots on one shaft. I'm not sure that they exist...

This thread from a few weeks ago is for something similar and may be worth following up: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/181426-is-anyone-out-there-awesome-enough-to-make-me-one-of-these

Vintage basses are a bit like a favourite old pair of jeans. Well worn in, a bit frayed round the edges, maybe past their best but fit like a glove and feel 'just rght'. Like an old friend who you don't see very often but when you do it feels like it was yesterday. If that strikes a chord then you might like an old bass. My 72 J and 72 P are old workhorses with no pretensions to be anything else. They have many knocks, flaws and idiosyncrasies but can still hold their own in most playing situations and have great character and individuality. Playing them always makes me smile! Many other 'better' basses have come and gone over the years, including new Fenders, but these two are somehow a bit special and are still here. I wouldn't pay silly money for an old bass but with the recent price hikes of new Fenders and MMs there are plenty out there for similar cash.

One half of the P being out of phase with the J indicates that the J wiring/polarity isn't correctly matched with the P (rather than the P wiring being at fault). Assuming the P is correctly wired with both coils being RWRP, then the J needs to be the same winding and polarity as one of the P coils to work. If it's not then there will always be a phasing issue with one of the P coils, regardless of whether you reverse the P wiring. The attached diagram may help. It should work as shown. But if the J was instead wired N-CCW then there would be a phasing issue. First check that the P is correctly wired with reverse winding and reverse polarity. Then try changing the wiring on the J (rather than the P). If you've already done that then sorry for wasting your time and please ignore this! [attachment=114897:P-J wiring.jpg]

This Gumtree ad for a Fender RT-1000 is a month old but may be worth checking to see if it's still available: http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/fender-rt-1000-rackmount-guitar-and-bass-tuner/105539630

Details of the OBP-3 here - http://www.bestbassgear.com/aguilar-obp3-preamp.htm - say it's compatible with most pickups. Towards the bottom of the page it says it's supplied with 250k vol/blend pots 'unless specified for active pickups'. This suggests that it will work with active pickups but that different pots (probably 50k) will be supplied for that. Some comments on Talkbass also indicate that it will work with active pups. If in doubt I'd contact tech support at Aguilar - [email="[email protected]"][email protected][/email].

[quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1343764757' post='1754974'] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/156445-markbass-lmii-effects-loop/"]http://basschat.co.u...i-effects-loop/[/url] There's a link in that thread to a talkbass topic which includes pictures. [/quote] This link shows how to mod the earlier LM II. The manual I have is for the LM III which has different circuit boards and the mod is slightly different

Some info on this in the DB section here - http://basschat.co.uk/topic/138556-basic-play-along-backing-tracks/page__p__1316577

Had a message from BCer najati enquiring about this so thought I'd share with anyone who's interested. If you want to switch the efects loop on your LM III from parallel (factory default) to series then PM me with your email and I'll send you a pdf service manual showing how to do this. Simple job, just need to move two jumpers on the circuit board. Useful if you want to insert line level rack units such as a compressor.

Post some pics and it will be easier for people to help you

This taken from the Status Graphite page detailing their replacement necks:: "The width at the heel is 2.5"... the standard on Fender and Musicman 4-string necks, or 2.75" on the MM 5-string." "For Musicman 4 string and 5 string (Sabre/Stingray models only - NOT Sterling, Bongo etc)."

Looking back at the OP - does the buzz still go away when you hold the tuning peg?

I have one on my ACG and it adds a completely new 'acoustic-like' dimension to the sound, Very airy with extended highs and lows. Great bit of kit. Also works very well in combination with a mag pickup. You'll need a piezo buffer/preamp of some sort to get the best out of it. I tried the Graphtec Acoustiphonic preamp which worked fine but the mid/dark settings are quite extreme. I'm currently using a Shadow PMS buffer which has 3-band miniature preset eq which allows a bit more tweakability. There are other piezo saddle options out there such as RMC which apparently have better dynamic response and a preamp with optimised string to string eq but these are much more costly than Graphtec. If you want the very best then look at RMC but the Graphtec is a good affordable option.

Depends where exactly the buzz is coming from. I've had buzz before from a loose clover leaf/elephant ear that wasn't securely attached to the shaft. A small drop of superglue wicked into the joint fixed that.

Some rather primitive wiring diagrams for the AB30 can be found here in case theyre of any use for diagnostics: http://vintagewashburn.com/Wiring%20Diagrams%20PDFs/WiringDiagrams.html Sounds like the pre is up the creek to me. If you can get at the mag wiring try jumping the preamp and going direct to the output jack. If that works it's definitely the pre.

TH Audio make a piezo buffer pedal, details here - http://www.thaudio.com/product_info.php?products_id=33 Loads of buffer circuits on the web so as Mr Foxen says it shouldn't be too hard to knock one of these up yourself.

A pdf schematic of the Sabre control plate can be found here (towards bottom of the page): [url="http://www.music-man.com/techinfo_old/"]http://www.music-man.com/techinfo_old/[/url] May be useful iof you can scale it up to full size.

This thread on Talkbass may be of interest - http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/making-metal-fretboard-342925/

[quote name='SlapbassSteve' timestamp='1341835844' post='1724737'] Does anyone know the differences between the different fender pickups though? [/quote] This thread from Talkbass might be useful - http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/fender-75-reissue-pickups-vs-dimarzio-model-js-655620/

This thread may also be of interest - http://basschat.co.uk/topic/180351-mim-jazz-pickup-replacement-routing-or-2-neck-sized-pups/