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Everything posted by ikay
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Well it's a mutt, but an honest mutt! Under £300, 1960's German plywood (description from seller below). More faults than you could list probably but bags of character. Decided it was time to give it a go so just something to get me started. [attachment=110146:P1010404.jpg] [attachment=110144:P1010397.jpg] [attachment=110145:P1010398.jpg] Although it does have a relatively easy action for a DB, I have a long way to go in getting my fingers up to strength and thinking that some softer/lower tension strings might help to start with. Current strings not known but are steel and I think medium tension. Can anyone recommend me a steel core string with a softer feel, something that's easier on the fingers for a beginner? Or if anyone has something lying around please let me know (even a softer G/D might help if not a full set). Also, can anyone tell me what type of magnetic pickup this might be? [attachment=110147:P1010406.jpg] Thanks, Ian [i][b]Seller's Description[/b][/i] [i]If you're looking for a big sounding vintage bass, expertly restored look away now... BUT if you're looking for a cheap as chips, quirky double bass perfect for electric bass players moving to double bass then this might be for you. I used for my pupils as a loaner practise bass. Lots of them were coming from electric bass and so I set it up with a very low action and thinned down neck to give it a more bass guitarist's left hand fit. They've all loved it. It plays very well and very, very easily; again great if you're coming from electric bass. Due to a history (before I acquired it) of quick fix internal repairs the sound is not present enough to be really considered for out and out acoustic gigs. Rather, like the EUB's on the market, this bass is only really to be used with a pick up and amp - unlike EUB's this looks a lot cooler. The pick up is included - a magnetic pickup attached to the bridge. It gives a strong signal and sounds fantastic through a p.a or amp. It has an interesting pedigree. The considered view is that it is a 1960's German upright, probably coming from the FRAMUS factory. As plywood as they come, it is very robust and so perfect for an all weather playing outside/damp marquee type gigs. In short she's a mutt but every dog has its day, right?[/i]
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Status Empathy?
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[size=4]If you're not too fussed by the odd bit sawn off how about this one on ebay[/size] (current bid £20): [attachment=110006:BG.jpg] [size=4]"...[font=Arial]the overall condition in my opinion is an 8/10..."[/font][/size] [size=4]according to the seller![/size]
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[quote name='Zenitram' timestamp='1339259571' post='1686049'] Right, but apart from the fact that it's junk and they've sawn a bit off... [/quote] Well apart from that it looks great Who knows, maybe it is a little gem. If it's close to you why don't you pop round and try it out?
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Here's another version with audio that plays along with the tab so you can hear it in context: [url="http://www.songsterr.com/a/wsa/yes-starship-trooper-bass-tab-s23538t8"]http://www.songsterr...ss-tab-s23538t8[/url]
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Here's an extract from www.guitarelectronics.com (the same applies for bass guitars): [size=4][font=Arial]"Either 250K or 500K pots can be used with any passive pickups however the pot values will affect tone slightly. The rule is: Using higher value pots (500K) will give the guitar a brighter sound and lower value pots (250K) will give the guitar a slightly warmer sound. This is because higher value pots put less of a load on the pickups which prevents treble frequencies from "bleeding" to ground through the pot and being lost. For this reason, guitars with humbuckers like Les Pauls use 500K pots to retain more highs for a slightly brighter tone and guitars with single coils like Stratocasters and Telecasters use 250K pots to add some warmth by slightly reducing the highs. You can also fine tune the sound by changing the pot values regardless of what pot value the guitar originally had.[/font]"[/size] [size=4]Also this from Talkbass, specifically about putting 500k pots in a Precisioon::[/size] [size=4]"[/size]500ks will make for a loud, bright, grindy sound, while 250ks will be more old-school." So I guess it depends what she's after...
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[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1339046637' post='1682780'] I'd agree with previous posts that pickup position counts for a fair bit. [/quote] FWIW, measured from the nut, the centreline of a Jazz bridge pickup (60s position) is 80cm and the centreline of the bridge coil of the MM is 79cm. Coil tapping the MM should be pretty close in terms of position but the bigger magnets and windings will also affect the resonant peak and tone.
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I also think it looks like a Highway One. The Fender logo is right for a Highway and you can just see the top of the trussrod adjuster in the headstock shot which is right for an older model (new Highways have the adjuster at the heel end like a regular MIA).
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Hiscox locks use a simple generic type key (pic of mine below). If they can't send you a replacement it shouldn't be too hard to make something that will unlock it. [attachment=109625:P1010395.JPG]
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Lighter gauge strings are good for a more expressive tone on fretless. Heavier gauge for more thump and less mwah. Setup is also a critical factor in generating the tone you're looking for, much more so on a fretless than a fretted IMO. I'm no expert, just learning as I go by trying things out and finding what suits me. Be interesting to see what the fretless gurus of BC have to say!
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Status halfwounds have a nice smooth feel and sound good to me, brighter than flats but less zingy than rounds. They do mellow with age but should last longer than rounds and will be much kinder to your fingerboard. Reasonably priced too so worth giving them a go. Trimming long scale strings to fit generally isn't a good idea, particularly for the lower A and E where you really need the taper to wind round the post.
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Palatino possibilities neck removal?
ikay replied to ceilidhswinger's topic in Repairs and Technical
This vid on YT shows an Eminence neck being removed and re-installed. You can see the neck joint about 1 minute in - [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5QkD7CUNLs[/media] And here's a Kolstein Busetto neck being removed. Good view of neck joint about 3 mins in - [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JN_5Flm5yiI[/media] Interesting project! -
Sounds like a good find - if you decide not to buy it please drop me a pm
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Excuse the cack handed retouching but looks OK to me [attachment=108766:J+H IV.jpg]
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I did the same thing to a Squier VMJ a while ago - total weight saving was around 160gm (5.6 ounces) so it does make a noticeable difference. Set of four will cost around £100 over here but there is a used set on ebay at the moment with a BIN price of £65 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hipshot-Ultralight-Bass-Tuners-/110885130556
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Some info on the Rock Palace website here: - [url="http://www.rockpalace.com/en/product/Landscape-Swing-Bass-Artist-AVC"]http://www.rockpalac...Bass-Artist-AVC[/url] They're available from this distributor in the Netherlands: - [url="http://www.bmi.nl/"]http://www.bmi.nl/[/url] (search for Landscape) Also this demo on YouTube (how's your Japanese?) - [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FST4PfHeveo[/media] Looks like an interesting alternative to an Eminence or BSX
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[quote name='Josh' timestamp='1337944534' post='1667751'] I think they're are stock Lakland pick ups, I'm not too sure how I would go about checking if they're Fralins or Aero's though. [/quote] Early Skyline JOs had Fralins, they switched to Lakland pickups in 2007. The first two digits of the serial number should give you the build date. I think Aeros were only fitted on early models of the Darryl Jones (not the JO).
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DR DDT strings - http://www.drstrings.com/catalog/ddt-bass-strings
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[quote name='Baxter' timestamp='1337799231' post='1665709'] I've used thumbpicks all my playing life. Dunlop M is my preference. Dead easy to play with!! [/quote] Thanks, I'll give those a go
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Anyone here use a thumb pick? I can't grip a regular pick due to cramping (focal dystonia sort of thing). I've read about Andy Billups from the Hamsters but can't find any pics of his modified thumb pick.
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The standard Fender moulded case like this fits both J and P basses [attachment=108548:Fender Moulded Case.jpg]
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Ruck, where did the hot and cold wires from the controls attach to the pickups? In the pic from 7string the red and black leads on the lower coil look suspiciously like they're both soldered to the brass bottom plate which might be part of the problem
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Might be worth contacting Yamaha in Milton Keynes - UK Technical Support is available by telephone on [b]0844 811 1116[/b] - Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm (4.30pm on Friday). Speak to someone there and email them a pic, they may be able to help
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Good question Dave! On the attached pic they look the same size as the pickguard screws [attachment=107961:p1_uzstbehhe.jpg]