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ikay

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Everything posted by ikay

  1. If it's the one on the left you're after run a search on ebay for 'chicken head knob'. There are lots of them on ebay. The one on the right looks like a Fender jazz control knob, replacements also available on ebay.
  2. One option would be to use a [color=#ff0000]miniature [/color]250k preset potentiometer for the neck pickup. This would be wired exactly the same as a volume control but would sit inside the control cavity. You then just preset it to whatever level you want.
  3. [quote name='tbonepete' timestamp='1330451599' post='1557768'] Can you recommend any pots in particular? [/quote] There are a few threads on Talkbass about blend/centre volume issues: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/jazz-blend-pot-center-detent-volume-drop-525115/ http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/old-story-volume-drop-middle-position-when-using-blend-pot-598672/ Both of these recommend the 'MN' blend pot from Allparts: http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/guitar-bass-parts/electronics/250k-pots/dual-250kmn-blendbalance-audio-taper-pot-w-centre-detent-p-1560.html
  4. If the truss rod is fully clockwise (not good if it's at the end of its travel!) then are you seeing a back-bow in the neck or an up-bow? Max tension in the rod would generally result in a slight back-bow and the strings would be 'grounding out' on the frets. If you're still getting an up-bow (ie. the neck has some relief) and you want less relief (ie. a flatter neck that will lower the action) then putting on higher tension strings will have the opposite effect to what you want Some pics might help.
  5. [quote name='V4lve' timestamp='1330949010' post='1565074'] Beginning to wonder if I am obsessing, [/quote] I think probably yes It's only detectable when using headphones and even then not really that noticeable unless you're listening for it. No one will hear it when you play live. Having been through all the various checks it doesn't sound as though there's anything on your bass that needs fixing. It's just one of those slightly curious artefacts to do with the natural vibration of the strings you have on it. Possibly more noticeable with new strings than dull ones as you mention. It probably happens to the rest of us as well but we just haven't noticed it!
  6. Thanks for the very useful feedback. I really need to try a few EUBs to get an idea of what they feel and sound like but they're few and far between in the regular music shops around here. I had a very brief go on a real DB a few months ago and could hardly produce a sound due to high action and the sheer physical effort of fretting a note. Which doesn't bode well for my potential abilities! The trick I think is going to be finding something that I can get to grips with in terms of physical playability but also has the potential to produce really good sounds when it's played well. I'd rather spend a bit more and get a quality instrument that will inspire me to learn and practice rather than something that struggles to sound good even when played well.
  7. I'm a novice to the world of EUBs but keen to have a go. I'm looking at either an Aria SWB Lite or NS Design NXT4. Can anyone offer any comments on either of these in terms of playability and sound quality? Do they come anywhere close to emulating an acoustic upright? Be grateful for any input Thanks
  8. Have you tried a different set of headphones? Fret buzz? Do you have a very low action and/or very light strings? Does it happen with both open and fretted strings? Is it more noticeable low down or high up the fretboard? Could it be some sort of vibration happening around the nut/tuners or bridge area rather than the playable part of the strings? Try damping the strings between the nut and tuners (stiff a bit of foam or something in there to stop the strings ringing) and see if that makes any difference. Do the same for the bridge to make sure there's nothing going on down there.
  9. Very interesting video. A lot of hand crafting going on there, particularly with the neck. Probably the vintage range I guess rather than the regular CT production line?
  10. Grub screw sizes are anything but universal unfortunately. If you can put up a picture of the bass and a close-up of the bridge along with details of model/year etc that would help.
  11. [quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' timestamp='1330378673' post='1556602'] Can you fit these into a 2 band Stingray? [/quote] I think the East MMSR 2-band is a straight drop in [attachment=101217:East MMSR 2-band.jpg]
  12. [quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1330355006' post='1556061'] Same Vain [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Paddle-Guitar-homemade-ecoguitar-/190646050715?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2c6363df9b"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c6363df9b[/url] [/quote] At least it doesn't pretend to be anything other than an unwanted chopping board (rather than a pre-CBS cigar box ) and the starting price is slightly less ludicrous
  13. [quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1330364564' post='1556285'] I don't necessarily agree on the point above suggesting that a limited pre-amp can be compensated for at the amp. In theory yes, in practice, I haven't found it to be that simple. If you're ring to do it all at the amp, you have to ask why have EQ on the bass anyway? If playing an active bass I always preferred to run the amp flat and EQU precisely - and the East mid-sweep really allows you to do so - on the bass. [/quote] That's a fair point Beedster. I also generally run my amp flat. I just don't find the SR pre to be so bad - probably my lousy ears!
  14. I think Beedster meant pre not pup. What's lacking with the stock pre that can't be sorted with a bit of shaping at the amp end? I'm sure the East adds something but the stock pre suits my SR5 pretty well IMO ...
  15. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Bass-guitar-Hand-built-unique-/280831859034 Er yes, I think he got a bit carried away with the zeros in the starting price
  16. This thread from the Telecaster forum may have something of interest.: http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-technical/134298-how-relic-metal-parts-how-pit-chrome.html#post1527752 See the post with pictures from Lostheart about halfway down
  17. Just sold my US P bass to Rich. Very straightforward transaction and a pleasure to do business with. Many thanks Rich and enjoy the bass. Cheers, Ian
  18. ikay

    Best compressor?

    I tried various pedal compressors (Digitech, Aphex, Trace-Elliot, EBS) but they all either coloured or dulled my sound to some degree. I now use a DBX160A rack unit which I'm very happy with. It does the job with no fuss and is almost completely transparent. Very easy to set up, and very easy to see what it's doing (LED meters show input signal and compression levels etc).
  19. For a limited time in the early 80s (83 I think) Fender did make a Jazz with a single piece pickguard and white control knobs. It's mentioned in this post on the Fender forum - http://www.fender.com/community/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6448
  20. Full details of this are in the 'Other musically related stuff' forum, link below: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/168134-sonuus-b2m-bass-to-midi-converter/"]http://basschat.co.u...midi-converter/[/url] Pristine condition complete with original box and instructions etc. Price is £55 delivered (UK only)
  21. No one curious to experiment with MIDI bass...? Go on, live a bit, don't be so boring !
  22. [quote name='Davebassics' timestamp='1329340606' post='1541056'] Am I missing something? [/quote] Apparently removing the cap completely does result in a subtly brighter tone, here's a demo (on guitar) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dN3SlH-cEAg
  23. Picato nickels are good value and worth a try if you haven't already - http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/products/8716-picato_nickel_roundwound_bass_strings_40_100
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