ikay

I got lucky, the Bass Doc very kindly found some in his parts box. The only suppliers I could find for black plastic stack knobs were in the US (Sadowsky and Ibanez parts) but very expensive, in one case postage was over $50! Quite why they're so hard to get over here is a bit mystifying.

I've looked at the usual suppliers in the UK and can find loads of metal stack knobs but none in plastic (except the Fender fluted type which I don't want). I'm after something lighter weight than the metal types - something like the pics below, for solid shaft size 8mm (bottom) + 6mm (top). Does anyone know owhere I can get something similar to these in the UK? Thanks [attachment=98670:Ibanez SRT stack knob.jpg] [attachment=98671:Sadowsky stacked knob.jpg]

My exquisite 1984 BB2000, acquired from the US a couple of years ago. Plays as well as it looks, beautifully resonant and responsive, can bark or sing. Great build quality. These old BBs are just fabulous basses. [attachment=98615:BB2000-1.jpg] [attachment=98616:BB2000-2.jpg] [attachment=98617:BB2000-3.jpg] [attachment=98618:BB2000-4.jpg] [attachment=98619:BB2000-5.jpg] [attachment=98620:BB2000-6.jpg] [attachment=98621:BB2000-7.jpg] [attachment=98622:BB2000-8.jpg] [attachment=98623:BB2000-9.jpg] [attachment=98624:BB2000-10.jpg]

Either works. My piezo goes through a buffer/pre and then into an active eq alongside a mag pup. The eq allows for mixing two inputs.so this works well for a bass with one pickup and piezo. Alternatively the piezo buffer also allows for a mag pup to be connected at the output stage. This might be more practical for a two pickup bass which will use up both inputs on the eq. Just connect the output of the eq to the mixer input on the piezo board.

Haha, yes using parallel instead of series is an even easier way to solve the volume balance problem! Series does sound a bit meatier than parallel though. I guess some of it depends on the bass. Series/SC works really well with my ACG but I rarely stray from the parallel setting on my Stingray!

[quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1327672356' post='1515145'] Ha this made me chuckle as over the last couple of days I have been pondering exactly the same thing in relation to series/parallel switching. Useful post, cheers! [/quote] Series/parallel is a bit trickier as both coils are being used so it's more difficult to isolate the attenuating preset to the series setting alone. With series/SC you can neatly bypass the preset in the SC setting (in the 'down' position the switch shuts off one of the coils and also bypasses the preset). I went through various other switching possibilities and came to the conclusion that the only way to isolate some of the settings was with a multi-way 4-pole rotary switch. In the end I went for the series/SC setup as this gives you both ends of the tonal spectrum (thick and beefy / clear and punchy). In comparison I found the parallel setting was somewhere in the middle, neither one nor the other, so dropped it to keep things simple.

[quote name='FlatEric' timestamp='1327668958' post='1515057'] What Humbucker and has it lost any of it's original punch?? [/quote] ACG/Armstrong humbucker and no discernible change in original power and punch

Just posting this in case it's of interest to anyone. [b]Problem [/b]- there's a big jump in volume when switching a humbucker from series to single-coil - a potentially useful tone option rendered pretty much unusable by the big difference in output. [b]Desired outcome[/b] - to seamlessly switch from the girth and grunt of series to the clarity and punch of single-coil without a jump in volume. [b]Solution[/b] - add a preset resistor to attenuate the output of the series setting down to a comparable level to the single-coil. Sounds pretty straightforward but I googled high and low to try and find advice on how to do something like this and couldn't find anything. Took a bit of experimenting with various switch/preset configurations but I've just done this on one of my basses and it works a treat. The difference in character between series and single-coil adds a whole new dimension which is only fully realised when the outputs are at comparable levels. Switching diagram attached below along with pic of the installed switch. Uses a standard DPDT two-way on-on switch and a 500k miniature preset which piggy backs on top of the switch. Bit of a fiddly soldering job but neat and compact. This is for a single humbucker. I've set the series/single-coil balance to just slightly favour the series setting. The great thing is that it gives you the control to set the balance as you want it. Someone with a better understanding of electronics juju than me (not hard!) may be able to suggest improvements (such as an optimum value for the preset) or an alternative method. But this works so I thought it was worth posting! [attachment=98274:Humbucker series-SC switching with volume preset for series setting.jpg] [attachment=98275:P1040183.jpg]

I'm sure the John East piezo preamp will work in some configuration to achieve what you need. I considered this for my setup (single humbucker + piezo bridge) but in the end opted for a Shadow PMS piezo pre as this has a 3-band eq for the piezo which you can set and forget. I particularly wanted to be able to tweak the eq of the piezo. It also allows for mixing of magnetic pickups. Great liitle preamp. Details from Shadow Electronics can be found here http://www2.shadow-electronics.com/viewpro.html?id=164&search=1. Pic of mine installed attached. If you want any more details drop me a pm [attachment=98248:Shadow PMS piezo preamp.jpg]

Preset resistors generally have three terminals (just like a regular pot). To use as volume control, the signal should go to the wiper, one leg to the destination and the other to ground. This acts as a voltage divider with the signal being tapped off at some intermediate value (determined by position of the wiper) and part of the signal running to ground. Just inserting an inline resistor won't have the same effect. Although what effect it will have I'm not sure!

To simulate a 250k volume control being tapped at various preset points the resitors should add up to 250k. The resistors in the diagram above are all connected and form part of a voltage divider circuit. The resistors add up to 445k which is the same as a 445k pot with one end connected to the signal source, the other end to ground and the switch positions being the wiper. For example in NPU switch position 4, the pickup signal passes through a 250k resistor before being tapped off but part of the signal is also running to ground through the remaining 125k and 75k resistors. For a 250k total you could try resistor values of something like 125/65/60. I'm playing around with something similar at the moment - a humbucker series/single-coil switch with a preset resistor in the series setting to bring the output down to a comparable level to the single-coil. The idea is be able to easily switch between the clarity/punch of single-ooil and the added girth/meat of series without the massive increase in volume.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1327327408' post='1509318'] Why not just order it from Stewmac, then? They estimate four days delivery to the UK. [/quote] That's using DHL Express which costs $25, about three times what the switch costs!. Regular USPS delivery is $10 and takes 2-4 weeks.

Eureka! I rang WD Music and they also have the on-on version in black and in stock. Link below for anyone who wants to bookmark it for future ref: http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/MINI_SWITCH_ON|ON_BLACK_WDE9B Thanks for your help

Just called Luthiers Supplies, they have no stock of the black DPDT micro switch and none on order. Apparently source them from Japan and delivery takes several months! So still looking ...

Thanks bartelby. The ebay and Allparts switches have flat/rectangular section toggles, I'd prefer a slim round toggle (like the Stewmac pic) to match what it's replacing. The WD one is close but the only black one they do is three way on-off-on - I'm after a two-way on-on. No pic on the Luthiers Supplies page so I'll give them a call and investigate further. Cheers

Thanks for the idea. I'd much prefer to get a black metal one though. I'm really surprised I can't find any over here, surely someone must do them ...

Does anyone know where I can buy a mini toggle switch (DPDT on-on) in black instead of chrome? Like the one in the picture (from Stewmac in the US). I've scoured the web and all the regular UK guitar parts suppliers but can only find them in chrome. Any suggestions gratefully received! Thanks [attachment=97960:Mini_Toggle_Switche.jpg]

[quote name='andyonbass' timestamp='1327143273' post='1506858'] I tried to do this when I changed the strings, but there was some resistance so not wanting to force anything, I decided against it. If you look at the photo, there is an allen screw either side of the saddle, (height adjustment?) I wonder whether they are whats holding the saddle in place? [/quote] Hmm, this sort of saddle would normally just slide in. If it's not moving freely that may be part of the problem (it shouldn't be loose but should move freely). Give Rob a call at Status or drop him an email. He's always very helpful (01206 868150 / [email protected]).

Hi Andy, I have a couple of basses with undersaddle piezos and it's easy to run a basic check before calling in a luthier. Loosen the strings, unhook them from the bridge and move them to one side so you can get access to the saddle. Then gently lift the saddle out of the slot. The saddle just rests on top of the transducer so should lift out easily. Carefully inspect the saddle slot and surface of the transducer for any dust or dirt and clean gently by blowing or with a soft brush. Similarly inspect the underside of the saddle and give that a gentle clean. The underside of the saddle should be perfectly flat and make good contact with the surface of the transducer which should also be perfectly flat. The slightest bit of fluff or dirt or whatever can upset the piezo balance. Put the saddle back in the slot, string up and see if that has helped. Gently pushing down on the saddle over any weak strings can sometimes help. Give it a little while to settle down and bed in. If the problem persists then there are other things you can do such as sanding or shimming the saddle to adjust the string balance. It's not hard to do but takes care and patience. Best left to a luthier if your not comfortable doing it yourself. Good luck!

It sounds like something on the bass itself isn't earthed properly. Loads of threads on BC about how to check and fix that. If you have a multimeter, do a quick continuity test between the bridge and the sleeve of the input jack socket (there should be an internal wire going from under the bridge to the input socket sleeve). If this indicates there is a connection (which means it's OK) then remove the scratchplate and look inside to check that the rest of the wiring is all earthed correctly. If everything is earthed correctly ignore this post and seek better advice!

[quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1326825644' post='1502494'] Don't get hung up on the ext cab being a 1x15 for more bottom end; a 2x10 or 1x12 could just as equally give you the extra bottom end; in fact just adding an ext cab of ANY description will move more air, give you a lower load on the amp and increase the perceived bottom end. [/quote] +1 I have two separate 1x12 cabs, use one in small venues and add the second for larger rooms. The extra cab (even a 12) adds a massive amount of depth to the sound. Cabs that are matched and tuned to work in combination probably give best results.

I had similar difficulty finding what I needed in a travel bass so had a headless 30" scale made by Paul Rose (Prosebass). Couple of pics here - http://s1090.photobucket.com/albums/i370/iankay/ It's 90cm long (35.5") fully assembled and in its carry case (outside dimension of case). The neck is bolt on and built with rugged machine bolts/threaded inserts to allow frequent disassembly. When travelling by air I usually break the bass down. The neck and body easily fit inside my regular luggage case which avoids any hassle with carry on restrictions or checking the bass separately. Paul has recently stopped taking orders but may be worth having a chat with. He's a member of BC (prosebass)

The Ministar looks like a good option but a few others are also listed on this page: http://www.playawayguitars.com/play_away_guitars_shop.php?itemID=558

Thanks and very helpful, cheers

Thanks Mace, and yes I'm torn between both which is why I put up this thread! I'm not too bothered about the eq on the X-Blender but I do like the blend dial. I've read a couple of comments about the X-Blender adding a bit of hiss to the signal. That may just be on higher eq/boost settings but have you experienced any problems with this at all?