ikay

+1 for Hiscox. Very lightweight and you can literally stand on them. Best case for the money by far IMO - £67.95 from SoundsLive [url="http://www.soundsliveshop.com/p/Hiscox_STD-EBS/HIS-STDEBS"]http://www.soundsliveshop.com/p/Hiscox_STD-EBS/HIS-STDEBS[/url]

[quote name='Conan' post='1112066' date='Feb 2 2011, 09:49 AM']This...[/quote] That's lovely, John Giblin on bass I think

[quote name='Steve Amadeo' post='1112033' date='Feb 2 2011, 09:23 AM']We've all got to aspire to something. For me it's passion, soul, and precision as demonstrated in this video.[/quote] haha adds a whole new dimension to the fretless art - or do I mean fart

[quote]... all of the above apart from Mick's stuff sound bloody awful[/quote] even Pino? surely not...

[quote]I quite like Pino Palladino and Percy Jones' fretless tones.[/quote] Pino's playing and tone is just beautiful I'm not so sure about Percy ...

[quote]...there are no excuses for the awful intonation in the solo section about halfway though. It has completely set my teeth on edge and I need a cup of tea and a rollup now.[/quote] Heheh, you should hear my intonation, maybe I've picked it up from Mr Caron. Here's something a little more soothing [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsvdkMbz_qA&feature=related"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsvdkMbz_qA...feature=related[/url]

here's one for starters - Alain Caron 'Ink Illusion', F Bass AC6, watch for the octave pedal to kick in at 1min 15, awesome ... [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITQd2NtbOKA&feature=related"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITQd2NtbOKA...feature=related[/url]

[quote]I also hooked up a series/parallel switch which gives a more Precision-y kind of tone when in series.[/quote] +1 I dont know of any J pup that really nails a P sound. Different pup position (J is 2cm closer to neck than a P) and dual coil/series construction of P are big factors. On the other hand, a series switch adds a lot of grunt and IMO will get you close.

anyone?

Mikeg asked a similar question a couple of days ago - replies and suggestions here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=120178"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=120178[/url]

The RV4 has a rear routed control cavity but also a vintage control plate on the front - is there also a front rout under the control plate or is the front wood solid? Just interested to know as musing some build options. Thanks [attachment=70323:RV4_front.jpg][attachment=70324:RV4_back.jpg]

Apparently Modulus made graphite guitar necks in the 1980s - more info here [url="http://www.guitargearheads.com/modules/newbb/report.php?forum=1&topic_id=1673&post_id=12800"]http://www.guitargearheads.com/modules/new...p;post_id=12800[/url]

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='1105445' date='Jan 27 2011, 07:19 PM']If Ikay's taken the jazz measurement from his '72 then the bridge pickup placement will differ from a 'regular' non-70s one.[/quote] No, taken from a Squier VMJ which has same pup spacing as a 'regular' jazz. Same length neck as well (20 fret) so measurement should all be fine.

[quote name='Spike Vincent' post='1105180' date='Jan 27 2011, 03:48 PM']The obvious suspect is the E string itself,methinks.[/quote] +1 on that. I'd definitely try a matched set of strings before doing anything else ...

[quote]Can anybody tell me the measurements for the placement of the mid/neck pickup on a jazz and the same for a precision? I suppose best measurement is from 12th fret to the pickup centre? Or maybe from the bridge?[/quote] Just measured mine which are as follows: Precision pickup - from 12th fret to pickup centreline (where pickup splits) is 294mm - from end of standard 20 fret neck to pickup centreline (where pickup splits) is 122mm Jazz neck pickup - from 12th fret to pickup centreline is 276mm - from end of standard 20 fret neck to pickup centreline is 104mm Jazz bridge pickup - from 12th fret to pickup centreline is 368mm - from end of standard 20 fret neck to pickup centreline is 195mm

[quote name='garethfriend' post='1099250' date='Jan 23 2011, 12:44 AM']Ive just had a look at it and basically it looks like it's a 4-pole 3-way switch which basically no-one sells so it looks like I'm going to have to get one from manufacturer. bugger.[/quote] Have a chat with those very nice people at Strings & Things in Shoreham. They're EBMM distributors qnd have been very helpful to me in the past. [url="http://www.stringsandthings.co.uk/"]http://www.stringsandthings.co.uk/[/url] email: [email protected] tel: 01273 440442

[quote name='mart' post='1096498' date='Jan 20 2011, 04:03 PM']Yep, that I understand. It's a more complex circuit that I'm trying to get my head round, but I just don't seem to be able to explain my question, so I'll go and think about it some more and see if I can either understand it, or explain it better! Thanks for your patience [/quote] Don't worry I sometimes think I'm going mad as well . I know what you're getting at. The idea of tweaking the amount of signal from each coil to get different flavours of harmonic content is seductive but I think in practice doesn't work. Even if it does, attenuating the signal from one coil when it's in series will affect the overall signal volume to such an extent that subtle change in harmonic content would probably be lost anyway.

[quote]The two pickups in a jazz bass have four wires between them.[/quote] I think this is where the confusion is creeping in. Imagine a humbucker with two coils hard-wired in series. There's only one wire going in and one coming out like this: (cold) wire >> into '-' [COIL 1] '+' >> connected to >> '-' [COIL 2] '+' >> (hot) wire Two single coils wired in series look exactly the same. Sure there are more complex ways of wiring this up via switches etc but in effect there's only one wire going in and one coming out. When in series they act exactly as if they are two coills of a hardwired humbucker.

[quote]I'm trying to understand why you need both pickups on full! What would be wrong with running, say, the bridge pickup running at half volume in series with the neck pickup running at full volume?[/quote] Look at it this way - imagine you have one single coil pickup with a volume control (A) wired on the 'cold' side and another volume control (B ) wired on the 'hot' side. Turn both controls up full and you get max volume. Turning down either vol A or vol B will reduce the volume - ie. they both do [u]exactly the same thing[/u] so one is effectively redundant. Now imagine the same setup with one twin coil/humbucking pickup replacing the single coil pickup. Exactly the same is true. Both vols do exactly the same thing and one is redundant. Wiring two jazz pickups in series is the same as having one twin coil/humbucking pickup. The only difference being that it's a very wide aperture humbucker (the two coils are some distance apart).

DR Sunbeams have a soft touch and good depth of tone. I use 40-100s on my 72 J. Great strings and definitely worth a try if you haven't done already

This lutherie article explains what's going on: Human Perception of String Tension and Compliance in Stringed Musical Instruments - [url="http://liutaiomottola.com/myth/perception.htm"]http://liutaiomottola.com/myth/perception.htm[/url]

OK I agree that free string length (and break angle) can make strings feel more or less stiff/flexible. The issue in question here though is to do with string stiffness/fexibility, not string tension which is always as per the formula. The follow is from a guitar forum but the same principle applies. POST: "lets say i have two identical guitars except one has an original floyd rose (set to float) and the other has a tune-o-matic, which will have higher string tension?" REPLY: "The tension for a given note on a given scale length is always the same. It MUST be, otherwise it wouldn't be the same note anymore. What you are looking for is the term "stiffness". The longer the additional string length BEFORE the nut and AFTER the saddles - those two being the two pivot points - and the smaller the break angle, the less stiff the string will be when you try to bend it or even just press it down. But as soon as you set a whammy bridge to float, it'll have a certain "give", so when you bend or fret the string with your fretting hand, the bridge might tilt forward, detuning the rest of the strings ever so slightly. But if the trem springs are strong enough or you block the trem and your strings are locked at both ends, you successfully eliminated the pivot points, thus your Floyd equipped guitar will feel stiffer under your fretting fingers than any other non-locking guitar with the same scale length."

The formula for vibrating string tension/mass/frequency can be found here: [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vibrating_string"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vibrating_string[/url] This formula applies to the vibrating part of the string (eg. between nut and bridge). From this it's clear that, mathematically speaking anyway, for a given string vibrating length, mass and tuned frequency, the tension will always be the same. However! This doesn't take into account the construction of the string itself which will affect the 'perceived' string tension or stiffness. For example round core strings have a softer feel than hex core which feel stiffer. I think there's probably some confusion here between the terms 'tension' and 'stiffness'. For a given vibrating length, mass, tuned frequency the string tension will be as per the formula but a hex string will feel 'stiffer' than a round core string. The free length of string above nut or below bridge has no bearing on the tension of the vibrating part of the string which will always be as per the formula. However (again), more or less downward pressure where the string passes over the nut and bridge saddle might well affect the perceived string tension or stiffness. The break angle over the nut or bridge is probably a more significant factor than the free length of string at either end. That's my tuppence worth anyway!

[quote]Oh, also, do I want split or solid shaft for the standard jazz knobs? Or do they make the knobs for both kinds? What value cap do I want? I thought all the orange drop caps would be the same value, looked them up on ebay only to find out there's loads! I'm guessing 0.47uF right? Seems to be the most common one used from what I've seen...[/quote] Solid shaft and 0.47uF