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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='946831' date='Sep 6 2010, 01:05 AM']There doesn't seem to be a standard as to which is the black and which is the white. Basically you did it right, swap them about until it sounds right.[/quote] Good advice - white is generally hot with black going to ground but unfortunately not always!

[quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' post='946442' date='Sep 5 2010, 05:57 PM']Going through a bit of a dilemma as to whether to change the pick ups in my 74 jazz bass or not. I have been given some advice that the stock p/ups were never that special and that by changing them for more modern ones will really let the bass sing. Any opinions or advice would be gratefully received particularly by those that have gone down this route already. If you have changed them what did you go for and why? Does changing the pickups de-value the bass at all? Cheers[/quote] I have a 72 Jazz that came with one original and one later 70s pup. They sounded ok but a little lifeless. I swapped them out for a set of Fender Custom Shop 60s which have brought it to life and still keep the vintage Fender vibe. Reason I went for these was that I didn't want to change the essential character of the bass, I just wanted to revitalise it which is exactly what the CS60s have done. Don't know if that helps or not!

[quote name='willyf87' post='942167' date='Sep 1 2010, 02:43 PM']Do I go about this the normal way I would on a fretted (playing the harmonic etc) or is there a better way?[/quote] Harmonics is the only way I know but there are some subtleties to setting up a fretless. This page from the Gary Willis setup manual may be useful: [url="http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/intonation4.html"]http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassm...ntonation4.html[/url]

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='937413' date='Aug 26 2010, 07:05 PM']Thanks for the link. Ill have a proper read of it later but i must admit im confused. I read quite a few threads on Talkbass where everyone agreed a audio taper is standard for a jazz bass tone control. Im in no position to argue with anyone but i think i need to look in to this a bit more first. It does seem like you can use either. This thread sounds quite interesting as well. [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=671456&highlight=pot+shootout"]Tone pot shoot out.[/url][/quote] Interesting link and I agree it is confusing. This extract from [color="#0000FF"]http://www.guitarelectronics.com/category/wiring_resources_guitar_wiring_diagrams.wiring_faqs/[/color] says that Fender use audio post for both vol and tone while Gibson use linear for both. If the tech gurus at Fender and Gibson can't agree what chance do we mere mortals have?! [u]What is the difference between Audio and Linear taper pots? [/u] Audio and Linear taper pots have the same total resistance but differ in which position of rotation the pot will reach the 50% value. Linear pots are usually marked with a B or Lin (examples 250KB, B250K, 250K Lin) and will reach 50% of its total resistance in the 50% rotation point. Audio taper pots are usually marked with an A or Aud (examples 500KA, A500K 500K Aud) and will decrease most of the resistance in the last 50% of the rotation. This can give a more gradual audio reduction is some cases. [b][color="#FF0000"]Some manufactures like Fender use Audio taper pots for both volume and tone controls. Gibson on the other hand uses linear taper pots for both volume and tone.[/color] [/b]And still others use Linar taper pots for volume and Audio taper pots for tone. However, if a problem of exists where a volume or tone pot has no effect on the sound, try a changing the taper. How to check the taper with an ohm meter: Set the pot to the center position (50% rotation) and measure the resistance between the center pin and each of the outer pins. If the the resistance is equal (50% of the pots value) the pot is linear. If the values are not equal, the pot is an Audio taper.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='937346' date='Aug 26 2010, 05:24 PM']Cheers guys. I will definitely give the bass a go first. I get it tomorrow and have gigs tomorrow and sat so i have no choice. Ive not actually heard one yet, my old HW1 didnt have this but i did like the way it goes when the tone is all the way off. Saying that, i hardly use the tone knob anyway so maybe it wont be a problem. As i said, ive never had ot do anything like this before so can you check this is the right cap. They also have the ceramic one. [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Sprague_%27Orange_Drop%27_0.047_Capacitor_.047CAP-OD"]Orange Drop[/url] Also, it might be easier if i replaced the tone pot. That way its less messy. Anyone know if this is ok? [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Premium_250k_Solid_Shaft_Pot_10%25_Tolerance_CTS250SS"]CTS pot[/url] Thanks again for any help.[/quote] Orange drop is fine as is CTS 250k pot but the one in your link is 'audio taper' whereas 'linear taper' is more normal for tone (audo taper for vol). I'm not sure that it makes that much difference but some more info on audio/linear tapers here - [url="http://music-electronics-forum.com/t1049/"]http://music-electronics-forum.com/t1049/[/url]

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='937090' date='Aug 26 2010, 01:09 PM']My HW-one is due tomorrow and while i know the tone will work for me i would prefer to have a normal tone where the low end does increase a bit. While i know im more than capable of doing the mod, im not sure what needs to be done, other than the caps need to go and be replaced with a single one. So, if anyone can guide me to exactly what i need to buy (never brought a cap before) and how to re arrange the wiring that would be great. If its worth me just buying a new tone pot please can you point me to the exact one i need. This is all new to me. Ive changed pups before but its always been a like for like swap so never needed thinking about. Cheers.[/quote] Fender circuit diagrams and parts lists can be found here - [url="http://www.fender.com/support/wiring_diagrams_parts_lists.php"]http://www.fender.com/support/wiring_diagr...parts_lists.php[/url]. Just scroll down until you hit the HW1. As far as I can see the greasebucket circuit just adds a metal film resistor in series with the cap. The cap is in the usual position so if it's 0.047mf then it should be as easy as removing the resistor. Otherwise remove the cap/resister completely and just replace with a 0.047mf cap.

There's a thread on TalkBass about this exact issue here - [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=655666"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=655666[/url] Some conflicting views but the gist of it is that the coated strings can cause hum if they don't make good metal to metal contact at the bridge. The counter view to this (which I agree with) is that a properly earthed bass shouldn't rely on the strings to complete an earth loop (with the player's hands). The bass should be earthed via the input jack to the shield/earth of the instrument cable. Providing the bridge and pots etc are all properly 'earthed' to the input jack there should be no hum regardless whether the strings are coated or in good contact with the bridge or not. If poor string contact with the bridge (eg coated strings) results in hum then the bass isn't properly earthed and this just highlights an underlying earthing problem. [quote name='Fat Rich' post='933976' date='Aug 23 2010, 06:09 PM']This is interesting, I put my first set of coated strings (Elixirs) on a couple of days ago and immediately had earthing problems. If I touch the bridge of the bass it sorts the problem, not much good really when you're trying to play something. I'm having this problem through my practice amp, my rig and my Loopstation, the strings were on a bass I've owned since '93 so I whipped them off and put them on two other basses - same problem. So I did a search on Basschat and on Google but couldn't find anyone with this problem anywhere, until this thread popped up! I'm very puzzled as so many people recommend Elixirs but I can't use them with a fairly loud and constant earthing crackle, which is a shame as they sound and feel really nice. I've emailed the manufacturers of Elixirs but haven't heard back from them yet, will let you know what they suggest and if it works.[/quote]

Definitely sounds like an earthing problem. If the earthing wires to the bridge look intact then change your lead and see if that makes a difference [quote name='DaveB' post='933463' date='Aug 23 2010, 11:14 AM']Yes thats right, they are now coated DR strings on the bass. The bass has been tried through a few amps and does the same thing.[/quote]

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='928142' date='Aug 17 2010, 10:49 PM']Ian. I also feel that if the pickguard fits then maybe it's not the neck pup but the bridge pup that's out. Especially now ice seen how off it can be. When I get back I'm going to try and figure out exactly which one is out.[/quote] Hmm, if the bridge pup needs to be nudged left rather than the neck pup being nudged right that suggests that bridge is also a bit off. If you run a straight edge from either side of the neck towards the bridge that should show up where the misalignment is. Be very interested to know what you find... [attachment=56969:Fender_Jazz.jpg]

Dave, Interesting thread and thought it worth mentioning that I've also experienced the neck pup misalignment problem with the new American Standard Js. I bought a black/maple one last year which had this problem. Eventually returned the bass for a refund as once I'd noticed it it just kept bugging me. Subesequently spent several months trying to find a properly aligned one but most of the new models I saw were 'out'. Tried several at GAK in Brighton earlier this year and all of the ones they had in stock were quite noticeably misaligned. I pointed this out to the store manager who was surprised but had to agree that it looked like a Fender QC problem. The neck PUP just seems to be installed incorrectly but the thing I find strange is that the pickguard still fits perfectly which surely it wouldn't do if the routing was out. All a bit odd but it's definitely not right. I've checked out quite a few older Js which were all fine so this problem definitely seems to have been introduced with the new MIA model. I'm still keeping an eye out for a new Fender J but haven't yet found a good one in the colour/neck combination I want (which happens to be black/maple). With all the hoohah about how great the new MIA Fenders are I'm really surprised more hasn't been said about these obvious QC issues. Ian

Had this little beauty shipped over from the US. Pure vintage BB tone and build quality. Designed to withstand earthquakes. And make them happen for that matter. Whatever acoustic resonance enhancement trickery they apply to the new 2024 I reckon this one's acquired naturally. Great depth of tone and very responsive to touch. Still interested in trying the 2024 for comparison though. If Yamaha say it's that good it probably is. [attachment=55932:BB2000_1.jpg] [quote name='martin8708' post='917215' date='Aug 6 2010, 05:44 PM']Hi Sean , I have ordered a BB1024X from Thomann, they have told me they will be shipped from Japan end of Sept . Are you happy with the 2024 and do they justify the price tag for essentially a Japanese guitar? Thanks for your time. Martin.[/quote]

Just measure the diameter of the tuning post. It should measure either 1/2" (13mm) or 3/8" (10mm). These are the two standard sizes of machine heads. Pretty sure it's 1/2" like my old BB2000. Then just select a Hipshot Xtender model with the right size post and matching mounting. If in doubt email Hipshot and ask them which one will fit. [quote name='CraigPlaysBass' post='916875' date='Aug 6 2010, 12:05 PM']Bit of a noob question, but I can't find the relevant information on the internet and... I... Uh... Don't really know an accurate way to measure it... I'm planning on fitting a hipshot bass extender so need to know the correct size If anyone knows or can tell me how to measure it properly please let me know Craig[/quote]

[quote name='Count Bassy' post='914911' date='Aug 4 2010, 01:38 PM']Any have any specific thoughts on putting a 'Neck wound' pickup in the bridge position?[/quote] This post might be worth a read [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-519134.html"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/archive/inde...p/t-519134.html[/url] It's about putting a Jazz neck pup in the bridge position on a PJ but the point about bridge pups being wound slightly hotter than neck pups might also apply to Barts. If that's the case then putting the Bart neck pup on the GW35 will most likely just result in a lower output. The main reason a neck pup sounds rounder and fuller than the bridge pup is simply its position (the strings produce stronger vibrations here). If you put it in the bridge position it won't take that sound with it.

[quote name='Smash' post='890272' date='Jul 9 2010, 11:24 AM']Hi, does anybody know how much it would cost for a bass to be painted/resprayed? Thanks[/quote] Depends on a number of things - how much prep is needed, type of finish you want etc. I've recently been quoted £200 for a solid colour overspray of a body that needs very little prep (no dings or buckle rash) or £250 if I wanted the old finish to be stripped first. Best thing would be to find a local luthier and discuss with them. There's a list of recommended luthiers on BC here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=26654"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=26654[/url]

I can recommend Wavepad which is another excellent free audio editing software - [url="http://wavepad.en.softonic.com/"]http://wavepad.en.softonic.com/[/url]

'Transcribe' from Seventh String (http://www.seventhstring.com/) is designed for musicians and allows you to do all of this. You can change tempo without changing pitch or shift songs to different keys etc. Very useful bit of software

[quote name='derrenleepoole' post='839656' date='May 17 2010, 12:08 PM']A few names to check out are East, a UK outfit with lots of kudos but not cheap. Audere do a straight control plate replacement but you must import from the US. And then there's Varitone stuff, available from eBay, quite cheap by comparison. All these will give you an active EQ, not strictly an active bass. Audere are superb preamps, as I have one. I've used East and they're amazing. No experience with Varitone, but the Youtube video demonstrations look very good.[/quote] + for Audere (got one in my JO4), superb preamp and they're about half the price of the East pre

[quote name='Beedster' post='840563' date='May 18 2010, 09:55 AM']I saw Rocco Prestia playing a Precision with the PUPs reversed, that is, the top PUP (E and A strings) was closer to the bridge than the other. I assume this would make the A and E strings slightly tighter sounding whilst having the opposite effect on the D and G? Any thoughts/experience of this? Cheers Chris[/quote] Several comments here say that it doesn't make a difference but to my ears the reverse P on my BB2000 definitely tightens up the bottom end when compared with my regular P bass. It's not hugely different but does slightly change the character and gives a tighter sound.