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funkle

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Everything posted by funkle

  1. Ok, so I filed down the nut slots, polished the frets, and oiled the fretboard. Didn't take too long. Then I cracked open the bass to have a look at the electronics, and had some pleasant surprises. First of all, the bass is shielded - in parts. The back of the pickguard has conductive foil tape. The main cavity for the pre, output jack plate, and P pickup are all painted with conductive paint. My handy multimeter tells me this paint actually works as well. This was a pleasant surprise on a £200 instrument. The battery compartment isn't shielded, but had conductive tape on the cover. Pleasantly, there are ferrules for the screws for the battery cover to screw into, which means the cover shouldn't fall off with the wear from repeated access. However, perhaps not surprisingly, the Jazz bass pickup cavity wasn't shielded at all, and pretty messy. The pickup springs are embedded in the foam (looks like Stew Mac pickup mounting foam with springs in it - very nice), and the bottom of the pickup is potted in wax (I think - a clear thick stuff anyway), which means the pickup pole bottoms are isolated and won't conduct through contact with the metal springs in the foam. That means it is easy to shield the cavity without worrying about accidentally grounding out the pickup. So... I cleaned it up and painted it with conductive paint....however it was old and didn't work. Boo Then...used copper foil tape with conductive adhesive backing...screwed in a cable into the foil and then screwed the other end into a common ground in the main cavity. Since that had a screw fixing in it as well, it meant it was a solderless job; just loosened the screw there and screwed it in. Honestly, I'm not sure shielding the Jazz bass pickup cavity made much odds. I probably wouldn't bother with it again. It probably just needs a humbucking pickup at the bridge to become hum free. A single coil will always hum to some degree, I guess. So there you go. Some surprisingly quality finds on such a cheap instrument. Shielding and a really nice pickup mounting system. Ibanez are doing things very well for not much money. I'm super impressed.
  2. Sold some strings to Adam - painless and quick transaction. Would be delighted to deal with him again!
  3. Morning all Put these on a 34” standard Precision Bass, and took them off again - on for about a week, if that. These are just not for me. Gone to flats instead. £50 new, save yourself the cash and buy mine instead. £27 posted in the UK, bargainous. Pete
  4. Ok, well, for me, the TMB105 I like better than either the Sire V7 or the P7. The Sires are way better out of the box - nut slots cut well, the fantastic necks, good fretwork, rolled edges, the finishes, slightly better tuners - and much less neck dive tendency - but I like the sound and punch of the TMB105 more. To be fair. The P7 sounds great, and has similar tones out of it. But it weighed nearly 11 lbs...and I think I like the 2 band preamp better than a 3 band. Less for me to mess up. So the P7 went back. I’m going to try and get my hands on a TMB505 to compare to the 105. But right now, the 105 is the bass to beat. Even though it needs work, as I described before.
  5. I would strongly advise against building a custom instrument unless you are very certain what you want. My experience of ordering expensive custom instruments has largely led me to the conclusion that my wants are not consistent over time, and it is generally way smarter to buy what is available, rather than make what isn’t. Even modding is something I look at very carefully now - if it’s not reversible, I’m largely avoiding it. I love maple necks now. 6-7 years ago, probably turned down loads of great basses with them. I like P/JJ/PJ pickups now (Stingray pickups at a real stretch), years ago, I wanted modern humbuckers in some instruments. Gone right off them now. Other tastes re: finishes etc have changed as well for me. Don’t do it. Buy secondhand or new, but not custom. Not unless you are really really certain about what you are doing.
  6. Thanks @daveybass I have often found that there is considerable variability to instrument weights, and manufacturers can be 'creative' in their descriptions. You may get more interest if you were willing to weigh your specific instrument. Your screenshots are really helpful. Unfortunately the screenshot of the Warwick website doesn't list in them what the string spacing is at the bridge. I'm guessing it might be 16.5mm after trawling websites, but again, it's a key spec for most people looking at 5ers and would probably be good to know. I have assumed it is 16.5mm for now, and will withdraw my interest. Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions though. GLWTS! Pete
  7. Agh, can’t get that website to work on mobile. I’ll try later on PC. Apologies...and how much does this specific instrument weigh?
  8. Nice. Do you know the weight, nut width, and string spacing? And is the string spacing adjustable? Thanks very much. Pete
  9. I picked up a TMB105 instead. Not sure if it is getting kept yet....wait and see....but it sounds great.
  10. Huh. I’m definitely going to go google that now. Thanks @6feet7
  11. Not sure - I haven't heard of that fix! But I think the upper horn strap button is further forward than the neck screws, so I think it might make it worse rather than better... I did do some serious messing around with it last night, which I also posted about on Talkbass - might as well post it here for info. (The discussion is at https://www.talkbass.com/threads/the-official-ibanez-tmb-talman-bass-club.1155153/page-79 - I put the copied text in quotes below) 'I did some experimenting. My Ibanez Talman tuners weigh 84g each without bushings (I removed 3 in the end to check). I'm guessing there will be some variability in weight due to their cheapness/manufacture. I didn't knock out the bushings to check their weight, but I'm conservatively guessing each would be 5-6g or so. So roughly speaking, there's about 450g (just under 1lb) of tuners + bushings at the headstock end. In testing, if I removed 3 tuners (252g), the bass would balance when seated. With 2 removed (168g), it doesn't. So worst case scenario, my particular bass needs to shed 252g of weight from the headstock. It might be perhaps be a little less, but that's the worst case. If I replace the stock tuners and bushings with the lightest tuners I can find (40g each), I can reduce headstock tuner weight down to 200g total, shedding about 250g of weight. So it looks like tuner replacement should work. It will cost a bit more than half the value of the instrument for Gotoh GB350s or Ultralites. To be fair, for comparison, the Sire P7 5er I tried out had a bit of neck dive when seated, and would have needed the same tuner replacement to balance properly. I'm about to find out if a Sire V7 is similar. Those cost more in the £500-£600 range depending on finish. Decisions, decisions.'
  12. Meant to say. Here's a few videos that helped sway me to the possibilites of the inexpensive instrument.
  13. Hey all Haven’t seen many people post about this bass. I did a quick review that I posted over on Talkbass, and thought it might be helpful if I posted it here too, for info. Here's a quick review of a very cheap bass - the Ibanez Talman TMB105. I went looking for a cheap or mid range 5er to be able to noodle on a bit, but not make my main. I would say the Talman is fairly representative of the saying 'You get what you pay for'. I'm even handed about it - I think it's important to be careful when reviewing any bass, especially cheaper ones. Pros: The stock strings are fab (D'addarios). I love D'addarios, and these are fresh and sparkly sounding. Acoustically, the bass sounds great, and the B string makes the whole body resonate. Jatoba and poplar may be cheap, but they sound great to me. I can't tell you how great it is to pick up a cheap bass with a good B string. The PJ pickups and preamp sound great. Although the pre is HOT. I am really pleased with how the bass sounds - the P soloed is great, the J soloed is great, and the blend is great. I have no issues at all with how this bass sounds - not even 'for the money' - it just sounds good. The pre adds lovely low end used judiciously, and can tame what can be a very glassy high end. It weighs 9lb 8oz. Not bad for a 5er at all. The frets are levelled well and it permits a setup (measured at the 12th fret) of 5/64ths on the B and E strings going over to 4/64ths on the G without buzz. That's pretty low. Truss rod works well - used it to get the relief sorted out. The bridge is nice. It just works - not much to say about it. The neck is fab. Feels great, and it's neither too wide nor too thick. I really really like this neck. The finish is well done (black, lol), and the join between neck and body is tight, with no gap. Cons: It only comes in black. A little boring. But hey, that's what we get at this price level. The frets could use a polish - not surprising, I doubt it got a lot of attention when it left the factory. I can do this. (No fret sprout though). A time cost though. It neck dives when seated like a beast. I knew it would have some dive - the upper horn does not reach the 12th fret, and the headstock is large with cheap clover tuners. But it really dives. On a wide strap, manageable, but keeping this bass would mean replacing the tuners with ultralites for most folks, including me. So I have to add another £100 to the cost of the instrument, if I decide to keep it. Just something to consider when comparing the bass to others. The nut needs filed down correctly - it's pretty high. Not unusual for a cheap instrument - they have to skimp somewhere. I see this often on midrange instruments as well. Another time cost for me. The cavities are unshielded. This is not unusual either on a cheap instrument, and I expect to shield cavities up into mid range instruments as well. I can do this myself, but it does take time. (EDIT: This turned out to be incorrect. See later posts) There's some hum from the J pickup. Not bad unless I put it close to a computer screen, but typical of the PJ pickups in many basses. I rarely see PJ setups ship with a J humbucker, though in my opinion most of them should. If I keep it, I'm not going to replace it; the cost of the bass doesn't merit it and the stock J pickup sounds absolutely great. The pre is super hot. Just turn it down though, works fine. The pickguard (tort) is pretty cheap looking. About what I expected, but for me, I would want to replace it. If I keep it. Another investment.... So, the cheap bass sounds great, but will need some time and money to get it right. At least £100 plus some tech work/time. Though I could gig it now - with some difficulty from neck dive - it does need fettling with to get it right. However, it may still be worth it....Some brief thoughts when I compare to other basses. It looks to me like the next step up - the Talman TMB505 (£500) - will suffer the same issues with neck dive, as the tuners no different on it. Bridge is same, preamp is the same as well. It also will suffer the J hum, as although the pickups are nicer (Nordstrand design), it's still a single coil at the bridge. So jumping up a price bracket will get me a nicer finish and I bet a bit more work on the frets and nut, but probably will still need another £100 into it for lighter tuners, much as with the lower end model. The Sire P7 I tried out (£600) had a much nicer finish/blocks/binding, nicer pre, great neck, but still had some neck dive, and would also have needed the tuners replaced (same £100 investment). It also weighed a ton - 10lb 9 oz. That's why it got sent back. Fab neck and sound/pickups though. If the Sire V7 coming to me next week doesn't represent enough value to take it over the Talman, then I'll keep the Talman and do the needed work to make it solid. I am impressed at what you get for £200. The sounds out of this thing are great. But it clearly isn't quite the fully finished article either. I’ll post a couple of pics in a minute.
  14. I agree that. It’s fugly. But, the bass still sounds great, and I run a significant risk of stuffing up the job, so....prudence is the better part of valour, lol.
  15. Looks great. You may have convinced me it’s a bit much work for a cosmetic change, though. Thank you!
  16. Where did you get the replacement bridge? Thinking about modding my Ray4... And how was the install?
  17. Ah, nice. The Revelation page says they all come with 38mm nut width necks now. I’m cool with that - my preference anyway. Out if stock everywhere though! Next delivery into one supplier comes in ‘mid Autumn’. Lol
  18. How did this bass work out, Dave? I keep eyeing up dual P pickup basses and the price is right on this one....other choices seem very expensive.
  19. That headstock though. I’ve checked out that website before. Seems expensive for a semi-custom instrument. A Sire V7 or P7 bass comes with a preamp and is a lot cheaper, plus will have resale value....these seem likely to suffer the fate of custom instruments (serious devaluation) without offering the benefits (choice over most of the build options - though I’ll grant there are a lot here). And a Sire won’t have that headstock. I’m not sure the Sire headstock is miles better, but it is smaller than that...thing...
  20. I’m still looking for a Fernandes FPM-80. Those sound like beasts and seem to sound P like even though the front pickup isn’t in the sweet spot. Nice pics of one here - http://www.music-trade.co.jp/Bass_80000316carte.html
  21. Lovely. The 16mm is tight for me, but what a beauty. GLWTS
  22. What is the string spacing, nut width, and weight, please? Thanks very much.
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