funkle

It really makes no odds what anyone picks. 5 is as good as 4 if you like it. I did find a downside with a 5. I never really found the B to mesh well sonically with the other 4 strings, in spite of trying many high end basses and different strings. Yes, Dingwalls as well. The neck is definitely wider on a 5 than a 4 in virtually all cases and requires good clean technique to keep the B from ringing out sympathetic harmonics, or rumbling. I got used to this but never felt quite at home on a 5 as I did a 4, even after years of playing. Hey ho, you pay your money and takes your choices. I don’t really mind what anyone does as long as they’re happy.

Jaco only needed 4 😄 Kidding!!!

I have found that sometimes I like using a Hipshot detuner for drop D on one of my 4 strings. But that’s about as low as I ever need to go.

Ah @stevie you found the bit on the website. Good. You can interpret it better than I can.

It’s on the BF website and it’s how it audibly worked when I owned one. I found it interesting to hear how highs were presented differently through the horn and through the 12” driver. The 12” driver doesn’t go anywhere near as high as the horn but it goes prob around 3-4K and it sounded very old school.

I’ve owned, played, and gigged most of the cabs in discussion here. the F112 has a huge low end (Which extends lower than nearly any other bass cab) which can swamp the mids live. You either turn down the bass or boost the mids, with hand position, pickup choice, effects, EQ, etc. But the F112 puts out a lot more energy in the 50-80Hz range than most cabs. It can and will seem mid shy depending on the signal fed to it, in the live situation. At home it is extremely even through all frequencies but has the pronounced low end. The Berg CN112 is not the same as the CN212. The 212 would handle I think any gig capably, within its volume limits. The CN112 is noticeably a fraction bass shy at home, but otherwise even sounding driver. I never quite gelled with the tweeter. The 212 combo improves the bass output. Either cab excels on the gig in terms of audibility as the mids are prominent by comparison to the bass region. But they can sound bass shy at home and boosting on EQ doesn’t replace all of that. Great cabs. The BB2 has a crossover that allows more signal to be fed to the 12” driver rather than the horn as it is turned. So at one end of the turn, the horn gets fed all high frequency info, and the other end, all HF info sent to the 12” driver with the other signal. It doesn’t just act like a volume control on the HF driver.

Lol. Well, take the Modulus for those....

That is very nice! Nothing wrong with that. Keep it...

I had a similar ailment. I have tried out or owned so many basses. It’s tricky. However I realised eventually that I only wanted basses from a few categories. Also, I realised that 95% of the sound is from me. So any bass that gave the right sound and felt good would tick the box. 4 string 70s Jazz Ash/Maple - there is literally nothing better for this sound, I believe, than a Celinder. So I bought one in 2013 and have never looked back. If it sounds wrong, it’s me, not the bass. It cost a lot at the time but it put GAS for this type of bass to rest. 4 string 60s Jazz Alder/RW - loads of choice for this one. But I bought a Celinder for this in 2012 and never worried about it since. Similar comment to above re: price and value. 4 string Precision Ash/Maple - Loads of choices for this too. But I waited a very long time and bought a Celinder PJ in 2019. I see no reason to bother looking for another bass of this wood/type again now. Expensive but worthwhile. 4 string Precision Alder/RW with flats - put together a parts bass from bits from eBay and had a local luthier make a Jazz neck for it. I wasn’t so precious as it was going to wear a niche string type. Not expensive. 4 string MusicMan - I bought a secondhand SBMM Sub Ray4, ultimately. This is a niche instrument as far as I am concerned, and after trying out many EBMM basses I am convinced that the sound of these is indelibly in the preamp. Cost - cheap. But I can’t see a reason to spend more - the Ray sound is there. And it feels comfy after I set it up and filed the nut. ’Beater’ bass - my old 2009 Squier CV Jazz. Bought in 2009 and travelled all over the world. Needs fretwork now but going strong and sounds as good as when I bought it. Cost - cheap. I have been through periods where I played 5 string. But I never felt the true utility of this. So I sold them after 5-6 years or so. I have been through periods where each of these basses was my main and others sat on the rack, even for a year. (The Sub Ray4 is recent but will I’m sure have the same fate.) But I was always glad that I kept them, even if I briefly thought about selling. My tastes cycle around again. I suspect the OP’s will too. Hold on to your quality gear @AndyTravis If you can afford it, IMO high quality is worth the investment. If you can’t, don’t sweat it, IMO inexpensive basses are 95% of the way to expensive ones with a little attention from a luthier.

I went to 5 string for about 5-6 years a time back. I liked it but didn’t find it life changing or essential the way many do. So I went back to 4 after that and stopped worrying about it. I might pick up a 5er again at some point for fun. Probably a cheap Cort or something. But good luck with the change, and enjoy the magnificence of Laklands!

That is really beautiful.

These look interesting. Barefaced getting a run for their money in regards ‘lightest cab’.... https://www.notreble.com/buzz/2020/01/25/gr-bass-unveils-the-aerotech-featherweight-bass-cabinet-series/ A 33lb 4x10”? With a tweeter. That seems impressive...

Wow, that looks great!