funkle

Lol. Well, I did 3 layers of the base coat and then tried 2 texture layers on the bottom panel, in case I messed it up. The faux leather effect is there but it is subtle and only obviously visible from some angles; it’s not as pronounced as you might hope from the photos done with Duratex. I think it’s worthwhile, but I am not as impressed as I hoped to be. I did experiment on scraps using this technique with much thicker layers of paint, and the effect was more pronounced...but the thicker paint was sometimes very visible and a bit ugly. Likely I need more refinement of technique. Process photos, for what they are worth: This is the plastic drop sheet. Scrunch it up tightly. It should look properly wrinkly. Paint on the layer of paint. Stick on the plastic. I left it for a minute or two after pressing everywhere to make good contact. Lift it off. Then do it all a second time. It’s really nice in the second photo. But much more subtle when dried. Still, I’ll persist. I can always sand it off...lol

I’ll document the final texture layers as best as I can. I sanded off the front edges and repainted with paint brush a few times. Much better. This stuff is very tough to sand though! I’m convinced of its durability.

Eh, it’s easy enough to do that even now. I might trial a thick brush coat over the front edges as a final go, but if that doesn’t work, I will sand down the front edges again. Ah well, such is life. I’m learning a lot doing this project!

(Mod delete duplicate post)

The normal stuff. I ordered it a while back, before I knew about the newer ‘pro’ stuff. I was mildly annoyed, but now it’s going on, I have no quibbles about the level of sheen, and after abusing it with a hammer/scissors/screwdriver, I am satisfied as to its durability.

@stewblack This site will not let me post video. But I will do as many photos as I can of the process. Which bits are you interested in?

Ok, here’s what I mean about the texture wearing off a bit as it dries. I’m about to start third coat of base layer, but you can see if you look close that the ply layers are visible at the front edge, and the patterning I clearly saw last night from the roller is much more subtle. I’m going in. We’ll see how it plays.

I’ll try. Problem is when you’re doing it, you’re kind of messy and can be using both hands...lol. I’ll try

Thanks Luke. I should have made it clearer; the base coats I am rollering on; the faux leather one gets brushed on a little bit thicker and then the drop plastic sheeting trick on that layer. I will say that the reason I think Duratex and Tuffcab are different is that Duratex is reported to dry the same as it looks wet. This is not my experience with the Tuffcab; whatever effect I’ve put on it wet seems to get more subtle as it dries in. I wonder if it is less viscous than Duratex. I hope that more layers negates this effect, but we will see. It’s a reason I may do two texture layers.

I’m going to try for the faux leather look tomorrow, all going well. We shall see. My main goal for this is for it not to look home grown. @Phil Starr I was very tempted to stick all the drivers in...but I’d probably not take them out again.

Ok. I put two coats of Tuffcab on, in the end I used a bog standard fluffy roller for these two base coats. It actually gives a nice little texture, though nothing as stippled as the actual Tuffcab roller, or as textured as what I’m going to do with the faux leather effect, but it’s nice. Really hard to photograph, especially at night. The seams were visible with first coat (as were the ply layer edges at the front, even though I sanded and filled them). However second coat is an improvement already. I expect 4 coats (perhaps 5) to be very good. The Tuffcab is very easy to use/roller on. I like it a lot.

I received my final package of parts from @stevie this morning, so cracked on with some more jobs. Used wood filler on some edge voids and made sure that my already insignificant glue edges are not visible. Glued in the bottom brace. Cut an extra bit of felt for the top panel just above the compression driver, and then glued that in. Then glued in the U-shaped piece of felt on the bottom panel (and extending up the sides): And then, as per Stevie’s thread, glued another piece of felt just on the bottom panel on top of that (not extending up the sides): Admired the crossover. And fitted the compression driver to the horn. Painting the outside is the next big job, then I can fit everything. I’m still experimenting with the Tuffcab. I’m not quite convinced it’s the same stuff as Duratex (the stuff mentioned on the USA forums). I can indeed get a bit of a tolex effect when I use crinkled up drop sheet plastic to mark it, but the effect was milder when it dried in compared to how it was when wet. I suspect the texture layer needs to be at least 2 layers to get a decent effect. I’m working it out more today, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it turns out it should have 2 smooth base layers and 2 texture layers.

You are a star. I’ll message you. Happy to pay postage etc

Talkbass has a lot of threads on Duratex. I didn't even think to look there....but @LukeFRC got me looking. Thanks mate. Here are some links of interest (first thread has comments from cab builders, very good): https://www.talkbass.com/threads/duratex-question.966795/ https://www.talkbass.com/threads/another-cab-makeover-thread-duratex-content.1109207/ https://www.talkbass.com/threads/another-duratex-cab-revival-eden.1131860/ Consensus seems to be to do 3 coats. Can either do 2 smooth and 1 textured, or vice versa.

Nice. No idea how he did that and he doesn’t say...you could PM him and ask? I’m guessing some kind of sponge or a specific rag... Edit: I'm totally wrong. @LukeFRC check out these instructions....this looks amazing for a leather look and I might try it out! The answer is...cling film! https://www.acrytech.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/DuraTexR-Leather.pdf

Baffle is done. Drilled the pilot holes for the feet. I’ve done all I can until I receive the proper Tuffcab roller and the remaining parts (crossover, compression driver, and round brace for the bottom panel) later on next week. My experiments with Tuffcab in terms of its durability are good. It resists hard hits with a hammer, gouges with a screwdriver, and scoring with scissors well. The more layers, the better. I can get through it with enough force, but this is true of any covering. I tried out a ‘primer’ layer with a 50:50 mix of water and Tuffcab and then applied a normal layer of Tuffcab on top of that, but this turns out to penetrate no better than the normal stuff applied directly in multiple layers, and is no more durable. May as well just use multiple layers of straight Tuffcab, as far as I can tell. I forgot to add. Tuffcab does not significantly fill gaps in wood. I’m going to go over the cab and fill even small voids/gaps - not that there are many - because of this.

Ok, looks like I was wrong. I got 3 coats of paint on the baffle and it all looks much more even. No sanding down required. Nice. I’m doing another coat or two anyway, just to get it perfect, if I can. It dries quick, so I may as well.

Glue. That’s why you see the clamps a little earlier. By the way. Word to the wise. Wipe your glue off better than I did...otherwise you’ll get uneven paint like this: That was from when I was glueing in the baffle. Thought I wiped it all off well enough...obviously not. Either I sand that excess glue off and repaint, or I add more paint to the rest of the baffle. However I suspect sanding off the extra glue there is probably the only solution that will work.

Ok, starting to look like a cab now. Lol I decided it was just easier to make baffle and battens and edges all matt black, right out to the front edge of the cabinet. I think it will look better as well, and that particular surface is unlikely to receive direct trauma. It’s still drying. Some bits may need a second coat or touch up later.

Thanks Stevie. I recognise those as also being sold directly as ‘Tuff Cab rollers’ by Blue Aran. Also sold the same way on eBay. The pricing in your link is very good for that number, though...

A few minor updates, while I experiment with Tuffcab and different rollers. And wait for the crossover, Celestion driver, and brace for the bottom panel to arrive. First of all, put some foam tape on the handle and horn. I did a quick test fit of the horn to see how good the seal is. With the bolts and T nuts and foam, it all looks and feels pretty solid. Did some checking about where to put the feet as well. I traced out where the corners will go and visually lined up where the feet look good in relation to that. Plus made sure the feet won’t screw into a side panel by accident (though screwing into the side of the baffle is ok, apparently). I’ll drill pilot holes before I paint. Here’s the rollers I’m experimenting with. A cheapo closed foam one and a standard furry one. The latter gives better results so far, but neither is quite right. So I’ll need to keep experimenting. And finally, I got the battens and cut them to fit. Stevie lists 11mm x 15mm softwood battening in the parts list, but B&Q seem to sell it as 10.5mm x 15mm. I checked with Stevie and this stuff is fine. Don’t make the mistake I did first time round of getting 10.5mm x 25mm. 🤪 It’s all glueing into place at the moment. Next up, I’ll paint the baffle and battens. I need to decide if I extend the matt black paint beyond that to the inner edges of the front lip of the cab, or whether I Tuffcab everything past the battens outwards. We shall see.

For the grill, indeed.

Did the felt. Didn’t glue on the bottom parts yet, but cut them so they are ready to go. From the front: Looking through the woofer hole: Looking up to the top left of the cabinet: And over to the right and up: As per Stevie, there’s no felt above the upper brace except on the left hand panel. The port and its surrounding area are to have no damping material. The felt needs sharp scissors, but once cut, can lose tufts easily. I treated it carefully. Once I can glue in the bottom bits, it will look like this: I need to buy the battens tomorrow, and get some scrap wood to practice painting on.

I think I can see one tiny void in the ply at the top left front corner of the cabinet, visible (just) in one of the pics above. It’s tiny...but I’ll maybe use just a tiny touch of wood filler on it.

Ok, I think I’m done with sanding. It took a while, but doing it by hand was very Zen. Oddly enjoyable. I kept having to just check and recheck the fit using the metal corner I’m going to use (same as one of Stevie’s ones he used). Started with 40 grit and ended with 100 grit. Not sure if there’s any point going finer or not. Best bit of advice for doing this, I received from Stevie, who I will quote: ‘The main thing is to match the curve on the cab corner with the inside curve on the metal corner and then continue that curve throughout the cab.‘ I experimented first on one of the rear corners to get the right depth. I bevelled very slightly the edges of the input panel. Also very very slightly the front edges around the baffle, next to where the grill will go. It really looks very handsome now. And feels great. Lol I’ll start putting the damping in next, though I can’t do it at the bottom until I receive, and glue in, the small round disc of wood from Stevie.