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funkle

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by funkle

  1. Well, the kit arrived. Minus the crossover and the Celestion driver; they’ll come later. @stevie should be very proud. The lightness of it all. Amazing. The cleanness of it all. Amazing. Great work on the decals @LukeFRC I’m blown away. Pics coming.
  2. It’s not in the build forum. Lol It’s here: I’m putting photos there now. @stevie has done an amazing job. I’m blown away how light it all is, and how well it fits together. I’m just about to try a dry fit. @LukeFRC your badges and labels are brilliant. I love the design. Did I say this kit is amazing? Pete
  3. They say it's a 'dangerous item' for delivery, so I cannot complete the order. Weird. Hey ho.
  4. Thanks @stevie. It appears Euro Car Parts can not deliver that spray primer - they won’t let me choose to have it delivered. However I’ll drop by a depot of theirs tomorrow and just get it over the counter.
  5. I’m on it Stevie. Thanks for all your work. I will document also in the separate thread I created already, so as to minimise clutter. Think I’ll just use Tuffcab for the port. It shouldn’t experience a lot of direct trauma, so it is probably good enough for the job.
  6. Lol. It appears so. I’ll do as much as I can this weekend. I have all the bits and bobs now, mostly, so we should be good. Stevie tells me the crossover is getting some work done, so I can build the cabinet up to the point where that needs put in. I’ll likely do everything up to the point where the top goes on; I want easy access to the insides for a while.
  7. Nice. Thanks @stewblack The pickup looks in the right position. But sadly the PJ bass you have isn’t the right woods I’m looking for, d’oh! I’m looking for ash/maple. Ah well. Best of luck in the meantime mate.
  8. I think so! Lol. Just whenever is fine.
  9. Are the P pickups in the sweet spot position as on a proper P, or are they in a Jazz neck position? I could be interested if they are in the correct P sweet spot...
  10. It definitely is mate. Only known to docs and nurses lmao
  11. @stevie thanks for your suggestions and work. I don’t mind being an early adopter, we’ll help work some of the kinks out of the process for those who follow. I really appreciate your offer of the extra fasteners of various sorts. This is going to be a belter of a cab. I estimate I’ll be in for about £470 after everything is paid for (including tools I had to buy), but it’s still much cheaper than the nearest equivalent boutique cabs, either new or secondhand. (A Fearless F112 is around £750-800 new/£500 used and weighs more; a Big Baby 2 is £780 new/£550 used and is a bigger cab. The Audiokinesis Thunderchild or Hathor are the other main USA competitors and similarly expensive once shipping and duties are accounted for.)
  12. Thanks Stevie. Hmm, perhaps I should have waited on getting the screws/T-nuts etc - I've messed up pretty much everything in terms of lengths etc, and the ones I ordered from the parts list we have aren't in keeping with what you listed above. Thankfully, 'tis but the work of a moment to sort out returns to Blue Aran. I'll find a use for the other screws. I'm definitely down for a screw pack, though. Lol
  13. I ended up going with this one after many rave YouTube reviews - it has arrived and feels like the biz. I’ve seen people now use it without a clamp as well as with, but it’s obviously safer to clamp it down. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Big-Gator-Tools-MDG1000NP-V-Drill
  14. The bolts on the parts list are not flanged. However it seems like it may not matter for this application anyway...?
  15. I think, on reflection, I'll stick to the T nuts and bolts for just the horn/compression driver and the main woofer. It's probably overkill on the handle and feet. I bought one of the tools I linked to above make sure I drill the holes for those properly at 90 degrees. It seems silly to ruin a baffle by screwing up a T nut install...I assume most manufacturers use wood screws because of the faff involved with T nuts, though the latter seem much more sound. I just double checked the plans. They definitely do have a supporting brace for the handle. Glad we likely don't need washers. I'll make sure I just have a single one for helping to install the T nuts - when you tighten bolts to help seat the T nuts in, it's helpful to have a washer while you tighten the bolt, to avoid damage to the facing wood, apparently. Until I hear more from @stevie, I'll plan that the port tubing gets glued in at the baffle end, rather than just compression fit.
  16. Ok. Answered one of my own questions. I found some small guides to try and allow the drilling of right angled holes perfectly. For both it seems advisable to clamp the guide in before drilling. https://www.amazon.co.uk/wolfcraft-4685000-Mobile-Drilling-aid/dp/B001154WTS Or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Big-Gator-Tools-MDG1000NP-V-Drill/dp/B00CYNOFM0
  17. Good morning all Ok, I have some specific questions reading through the build process/photos. Perhaps other may have good answers to these questions. 1. Installing T-nuts. I have now watched a few videos on this, including this one (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVfkxJiqLkA). However, it seems clear that getting a good straight hole at 90 degrees to the face of the plywood they are being installed into is key to having them work well. Since I don't have a drill press, does anyone have any tips on how to get perpendicular 90 degree holes with a handheld drill? I have seen a few videos with some ideas, but they all need you to make your own guide or jig, often using other tools I don't have. I'm interested to know if there is a tool that I can buy to help make this easier. 2. I should have asked before I ordered some screws (lol), but is there a guide for how long a screw should be for the 15mm plywood being used? For instance, for installing the handle, or the crossover. I'm debating using T-nuts for the handle, but will see how the screws look when I get them. 3. Are washers necessary for the correct installation of T-nuts? If so, we should probably add to our parts list. 4. When fitting the port tube, does the port tube need to be glued into place at the baffle end, or is it simply a compression fit? 5. Are there any requirements for the paint that goes inside the port tube, or can I just paint it with matt black paint that I'm going to use for the baffle? Thanks in advance. I think I'll post up some detailed pics when I do my build (in the other thread I have created), and make sure that I document anything that seems trickier. It may help others who come after. Pete
  18. I’ve just realised that there are no Speakon connectors in the parts list, either....perhaps they come with the crossover kit, though?
  19. Thanks guys. I’ll check those out.
  20. Quick question. Parts are starting to trickle in. However most of them don’t have screws to attach them. (The handle, feet, etc). I’m going to use the t-nuts/bolts for the Faital driver, and I assume I can use them for the horn/compression driver also if desired. However for the other bits of kit, does anyone have a recommendation for the necessary screws? (I’d like everything to be black hardware, so a source of suitable black screws would be ideal...) Thanks again all Pete
  21. Looks like our costs are comparable. I just bought more stuff - wood filler, glue, felt, clamps, etc. And it looks like I’m in for £216 so far, not £225. Got to keep an honest accounting though!
  22. Very good idea. I’ll start one now - done - it’s here: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/347017-stevie’s-12”-frfr-cab-build-thread/ Pete
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