funkle

Hi all Just starting up a thread here for the guys who are building @stevie‘s 12” full range cab, as per the design in this thread: I’ve just made an order for most of the parts to get myself prepped. Will post pics of my progress as I receive all the parts and get to work. I think that one or two folks may have already built the cab. Perhaps they might post pics/experiences here as well. Pete

Weird. Not sure how it could be much cheaper. I did pay £15 for clamps, which is extra to the parts list on the first page of the thread.... The major expense was the stuff from Blue Aran, and I joined their club to get the wee discount. How much cheaper did you get all your stuff? I can still cancel various orders...but genuinely am a little mystified...

Just did a big order for lots of bits from the parts list. Only things left to pay for are the Celestion compression driver, the flatpack kit, and the crossover. Once @stevie gets back from holiday I’ll order those from him and I’ll find out the final costs. I’m about £225 in so far before the final 3 parts above. Whoops, just realised I haven’t yet accounted for the grill and the stand off for the grill. Also the badge. I’ll add those costs in once I know them. Pete

I’ll start buying drivers. Thanks for all your hard work @stevie.

So did Alex from BF...he moved from 3-way to 2-way solutions for the Gen 3 cabs.

No. The F112 has the mighty Eminence Kappalite 3012LF. It’s not a driver that will work in an enclosure without a mid driver as well, at least not unless you want to hear more than a low end woofing noise. The Berg CN112 and CN212 had a very nice driver by Faital - the 12PR300. Very smooth midrange IME, but a single 112 cab was just a touch bass shy, again IME. Loud as anything and efficient though. The BCcab has the updated version of the Faital 12PR300, called the 12PR320. It looks great on paper and @stevie seems to have proven it excellent in real life also. I have very high expectations indeed of the cab.

This is great. I’m on it.

Yep, have fun! Lol. At least the most up to date schematics are at the first post...

Here’s the thread @Al Krow

Gotcha now That’s way too much work for me. I don’t have time to do that. And paying someone else to do it is probably not economical. So...I’ll try little fixes for now.

I hear you on that. Going to maybe try the very lowest settings and make sure the tea towel is good and wet...hopefully low risk stuff...

I’ll perhaps try that next. But I’m not sure if it will work. The edge of the sticking out tolex is quite stiff, and I suspect the tolex itself has shrunk/changed somehow. This may be why the kit I got from BF didn’t quite have the expected result. I’m interested to try an iron at a low setting with a tea towel covering it on the tolex. I suspect heat may reform it to a better shape, as well as allowing me to manipulate the glue again.

Joe Hubbard and Scott’s Bass Lessons. Between those two you should cover a lot. Extra credit for Rick Beato and Adam Neely for general musical interest.

What is the best and most effective way to use lines that I have transcribed from jazz solos? I put them in all 12 keys and get them memorised that way, but trying to deliberately insert them into my playing over specific changes doesn’t always seem to feel that natural. They do seem to pop out about 3 months later in my playing...lol... Do you have any methods or recommendations in this arena? Transcription has a lot of different bits of advice out there about it... Thanks kindly.

That sounds pretty incredible. What amp was he using, and where was the gig?

This is a great point, as per @Stub Mandrel also. The instructions that come with the kit don’t really talk about prep of the surfaces to be glued. I think the old adhesive must be water based. Certainly the new one is... The instructions that Alex kindly provides make it sound pretty simple. But I think it’s probably more of a job than I had understood.

The cab still sounds great though. I can fully recommend it from that point of view. But perhaps there are other solutions than using the glue kit for this fix, I don’t know.

On the whole, it is better, but it’s not back to stock. I have some comments that may inform other people having a shot with this. 1. The glue needs to stay hot to be spreadable. However, once applied, it can be heated by being rubbed again, and it then is very malleable. 2. You have to keep rubbing the seams to get the stiff edges of the tolex to go down. I did a lot of this, but I still got a middling result. If I had the guts, I might have taken an iron to the upraised seam edges...with a wet tea towel to cover them. 3. The glue comes off easily with water and some elbow grease. So overspill is no problem. I think I got an ok result, but I’m not that impressed. The biggest barrier to a good result is how stiff the existing seams are, and how they want to stick out, even after hot glue applied and loads of rubbing. Like I said, I’d probably take an iron to it next time...lol. Pete

And then here is the finished result:

Here is what the glue looks like heated up after being in hot water, and then applied to under the seams (with the inevitable overspill):