funkle

It definitely is mate. Only known to docs and nurses lmao

@stevie thanks for your suggestions and work. I don’t mind being an early adopter, we’ll help work some of the kinks out of the process for those who follow. I really appreciate your offer of the extra fasteners of various sorts. This is going to be a belter of a cab. I estimate I’ll be in for about £470 after everything is paid for (including tools I had to buy), but it’s still much cheaper than the nearest equivalent boutique cabs, either new or secondhand. (A Fearless F112 is around £750-800 new/£500 used and weighs more; a Big Baby 2 is £780 new/£550 used and is a bigger cab. The Audiokinesis Thunderchild or Hathor are the other main USA competitors and similarly expensive once shipping and duties are accounted for.)

Thanks Stevie. Hmm, perhaps I should have waited on getting the screws/T-nuts etc - I've messed up pretty much everything in terms of lengths etc, and the ones I ordered from the parts list we have aren't in keeping with what you listed above. Thankfully, 'tis but the work of a moment to sort out returns to Blue Aran. I'll find a use for the other screws. I'm definitely down for a screw pack, though. Lol

I ended up going with this one after many rave YouTube reviews - it has arrived and feels like the biz. I’ve seen people now use it without a clamp as well as with, but it’s obviously safer to clamp it down. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Big-Gator-Tools-MDG1000NP-V-Drill

The bolts on the parts list are not flanged. However it seems like it may not matter for this application anyway...?

I think, on reflection, I'll stick to the T nuts and bolts for just the horn/compression driver and the main woofer. It's probably overkill on the handle and feet. I bought one of the tools I linked to above make sure I drill the holes for those properly at 90 degrees. It seems silly to ruin a baffle by screwing up a T nut install...I assume most manufacturers use wood screws because of the faff involved with T nuts, though the latter seem much more sound. I just double checked the plans. They definitely do have a supporting brace for the handle. Glad we likely don't need washers. I'll make sure I just have a single one for helping to install the T nuts - when you tighten bolts to help seat the T nuts in, it's helpful to have a washer while you tighten the bolt, to avoid damage to the facing wood, apparently. Until I hear more from @stevie, I'll plan that the port tubing gets glued in at the baffle end, rather than just compression fit.

Ok. Answered one of my own questions. I found some small guides to try and allow the drilling of right angled holes perfectly. For both it seems advisable to clamp the guide in before drilling. https://www.amazon.co.uk/wolfcraft-4685000-Mobile-Drilling-aid/dp/B001154WTS Or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Big-Gator-Tools-MDG1000NP-V-Drill/dp/B00CYNOFM0

Good morning all Ok, I have some specific questions reading through the build process/photos. Perhaps other may have good answers to these questions. 1. Installing T-nuts. I have now watched a few videos on this, including this one (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVfkxJiqLkA). However, it seems clear that getting a good straight hole at 90 degrees to the face of the plywood they are being installed into is key to having them work well. Since I don't have a drill press, does anyone have any tips on how to get perpendicular 90 degree holes with a handheld drill? I have seen a few videos with some ideas, but they all need you to make your own guide or jig, often using other tools I don't have. I'm interested to know if there is a tool that I can buy to help make this easier. 2. I should have asked before I ordered some screws (lol), but is there a guide for how long a screw should be for the 15mm plywood being used? For instance, for installing the handle, or the crossover. I'm debating using T-nuts for the handle, but will see how the screws look when I get them. 3. Are washers necessary for the correct installation of T-nuts? If so, we should probably add to our parts list. 4. When fitting the port tube, does the port tube need to be glued into place at the baffle end, or is it simply a compression fit? 5. Are there any requirements for the paint that goes inside the port tube, or can I just paint it with matt black paint that I'm going to use for the baffle? Thanks in advance. I think I'll post up some detailed pics when I do my build (in the other thread I have created), and make sure that I document anything that seems trickier. It may help others who come after. Pete

I’ve just realised that there are no Speakon connectors in the parts list, either....perhaps they come with the crossover kit, though?

Thanks guys. I’ll check those out.

Quick question. Parts are starting to trickle in. However most of them don’t have screws to attach them. (The handle, feet, etc). I’m going to use the t-nuts/bolts for the Faital driver, and I assume I can use them for the horn/compression driver also if desired. However for the other bits of kit, does anyone have a recommendation for the necessary screws? (I’d like everything to be black hardware, so a source of suitable black screws would be ideal...) Thanks again all Pete

Looks like our costs are comparable. I just bought more stuff - wood filler, glue, felt, clamps, etc. And it looks like I’m in for £216 so far, not £225. Got to keep an honest accounting though!

Very good idea. I’ll start one now - done - it’s here: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/347017-stevie’s-12”-frfr-cab-build-thread/ Pete

Hi all Just starting up a thread here for the guys who are building @stevie‘s 12” full range cab, as per the design in this thread: I’ve just made an order for most of the parts to get myself prepped. Will post pics of my progress as I receive all the parts and get to work. I think that one or two folks may have already built the cab. Perhaps they might post pics/experiences here as well. Pete

Weird. Not sure how it could be much cheaper. I did pay £15 for clamps, which is extra to the parts list on the first page of the thread.... The major expense was the stuff from Blue Aran, and I joined their club to get the wee discount. How much cheaper did you get all your stuff? I can still cancel various orders...but genuinely am a little mystified...

Just did a big order for lots of bits from the parts list. Only things left to pay for are the Celestion compression driver, the flatpack kit, and the crossover. Once @stevie gets back from holiday I’ll order those from him and I’ll find out the final costs. I’m about £225 in so far before the final 3 parts above. Whoops, just realised I haven’t yet accounted for the grill and the stand off for the grill. Also the badge. I’ll add those costs in once I know them. Pete

I’ll start buying drivers. Thanks for all your hard work @stevie.

So did Alex from BF...he moved from 3-way to 2-way solutions for the Gen 3 cabs.

No. The F112 has the mighty Eminence Kappalite 3012LF. It’s not a driver that will work in an enclosure without a mid driver as well, at least not unless you want to hear more than a low end woofing noise. The Berg CN112 and CN212 had a very nice driver by Faital - the 12PR300. Very smooth midrange IME, but a single 112 cab was just a touch bass shy, again IME. Loud as anything and efficient though. The BCcab has the updated version of the Faital 12PR300, called the 12PR320. It looks great on paper and @stevie seems to have proven it excellent in real life also. I have very high expectations indeed of the cab.

This is great. I’m on it.