lanark

Julian Cope has a good line on indestructible stands: Here's one: And then there's the rotating one he dangled from in the video for "World Shut Your Mouth"

As an aside - has anyone tried adding bridge and pup covers to either of these?

[quote name='gary mac' post='940788' date='Aug 31 2010, 11:16 AM']A used vmj went for £310.00 on ebay last week, did include a hardcase. Must have been some over enthusiastic/drunken bidding going on.[/quote] That's (a LOT) more than new! (including a hard case!). Never ceases to amaze me how some people just get click-happy and ebay becomes a game they're determined to "win".

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='744630' date='Feb 14 2010, 12:00 PM']Mine is still wearing Pyramid Black Nylons but now also sports a pair of Wizard 64s - it's sounding good - and a white pearl pickguard. I've been considering some Hipshot Lollipop tuners.[/quote] I'd love to see a photo of the guitar with the black strings over the white body? Could you post one?

I'm wanting to upgrade my Squier Affinity P-Bass but am still on a pretty heavy budget. I've seen a lot of love for these two basses, but I'm wondering what the difference is between them and which people would recommend. I played the Classic Vibe in York today and it was a really nice guitar to play ... even with the stock roundwounds, which I've never before managed to get a decent sound out of. Now, bearing in mind that I'm pretty certain to be putting flats on as soon as I get it (as as part of the setup if I buy from Mormusic) which is these two Squier Jazzes would people suggest is best and why? Plus ... apart from the retro styling of the Classic, what are the differences between the two models? Thanks - I'm pretty sure I'll be getting one or the other and any direction will be gratefully received.

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='939877' date='Aug 30 2010, 11:56 AM']Just a bump to say I really enjoyed your set on Saturday, hope you had fun. And how mad was that Peavey bass head with the seperate fuzz channel? I want one![/quote] Awww thanks a lot, that means a lot (we're used to playing to salsa dancers, that was the first time we've played to a sit-down audience). We had a great time - (fighting against the wind, but at least not the rain, which came later!) - and personally I thought that the sound guys did a brilliant job, it was probably the clearest we've ever sounded. The head was great - didn't have time to check out all the array on the Peavey, but I loved the homemade cab. Afraid that I didn't get chance to catch your set, because I had to get off at about 4pm sadly, but when I popped my head into the arts barge tent I saw you bowing your bass, with two other Dble Bassists. Hope it all went well and you had a great time.

Anyone who's used the black nylons (either LaBellas or the Rotosound ones) can you tell me how long the black nylon coating lasts? One of the additional attractions of flats is that of hardly ever having to change strings - and while I love the look of the black ones, if they get tatty so that I'm changing as often as a Mark King soundalike then it defeats part of the object.

So - it sounds like removing the paint may unearth a lot more problems than it would remove .... so what would people suggest to touch up an area about an inch square ... maybe an inch and a half, that's right down to the polished wood, with ragged edges?

When I bought it, the bass had a pretty bad hole in the black finish on the reverse. Underneath it seems to be a pretty nice varnished wood finish. Would it be at all worthwhile removing the black? If so how? If not, how do I repair the black paint? Cheers in advance for your pearls of wisdom.

I use d'addario chromes. I use flats on everything - I just couldn't go back to rounds now.

A few pics from t'web The lipstick pickups look pretty cool, it's the black crocodeil skin tylex that I turn against.

I was trying out basses in Bulmer's in York and on sale was an Italia Modulo: four lipstick pickups, the entire back appears to be screwed on, it has a silver beading all round the edge and the black vinyl covering appears to have an alligator-skin relief effect. trouble was, it sounded okay, but I doubt I could ever get used to playing something that looks quite so odd. Anyone have one and give some feedback on what they're like to play?

[quote name='neepheid' post='937206' date='Aug 26 2010, 02:53 PM']Am I to take it from that statement that you no longer require me to open up my amp this evening?[/quote] Yeah, I've got it open now and had a peer inside. This is the part I need, I think [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1503"]http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1503[/url] But thank you so much for the offer of help, it was very very generous of you. As it's soldered, I'll leave it to someone else to fix, but as he's in the band, he's very cheap.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='936935' date='Aug 26 2010, 11:06 AM']Can one of the Mods please merge this thread with the one posted in the Amps section. I just spent some time replying to your post there only to find that it's already been answered here.[/quote] Sorry BigRedX, I've placed a VISIT THIS THREAD INSTEAD message on the other one. Thanks for the advice anyway - and apologies for putting you to any trouble. On the amp front. I've opened it up and the socket is soldered on with just three wires. As I'm rubbish with a soldering iron, our keyboardist (who has a degree in electrical engineering before anyone gets too concerned) has offered to replace the socket. I just need to make sure I get the right part.

Sorry Guys - posted this thread in two sections. Before the mods merge them (which I hope they will). Instead of replying here: please instead visit THIS thread: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=100248"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=100248[/url]

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='936819' date='Aug 26 2010, 09:53 AM']If it's the same as my Laney linebacker then you may have a job getting it out at it has rivets not screws holing it in.[/quote] Luckily, this is much smaller and it's definitely screws holding it in on the outside (well, it was, before the plastic smashed around it).

because so often I just can't be bothered connecting up to the amp to practice. I love the idea of an acoustic bass with flatties on, because I reckon I'd practice an awful lot more if I didn't have to go through the rigmarole of plugging in the amp, finding a lead, connecting the lead etc .... humph ..... So ... two questions for those who know .... a) what should I be looking for in a decent, budget priced electro-acoustic bass and what are recommended models (I'm talking under £250 if possible - preferably lower) and b ) can they be fitted with flats and what do they sound like with flats fitted? (I've gone right off the twang and slide of rounds).

[quote name='neepheid' post='936793' date='Aug 26 2010, 09:32 AM']There's probably enough slack in the wire to get the amp circuitry out - how did they get it in there in the first place? Just try it - if it pulls taut before you get the amp section out then I'm wrong, but as long as you don't yank it then it won't do any harm, just put it back and try something else. If you can wait until tonight, I have one of these amps, so I'll try to remove the amp section and let you know how I get on.[/quote] That would be pertty damn good of you, sir. If you could also take a quick peek as to whether the kettle socket attaches with solder, screws or spade connections then I'd be even more beholden (and if it has a hidden part number too, so I know I'm getting the correct bit first time). Ahhhhh everyone on Bass Chat is so helpful. As an aside - if I do take the amp out myself, is there any easy maintenance / spring cleaning jobs that I can do to help the amp without a degree in electrical engineering?

Is this the sort of thing that I'd be wanting to install? Someone else has told me it might just attach with screws on the wires, like fitting a plug. [url="http://uk.farnell.com/apsa/1049-ws/socket-iec-16a-panel/dp/1216334"]http://uk.farnell.com/apsa/1049-ws/socket-...anel/dp/1216334[/url] Okay - my next question is .... how the hell do I get into the thing? I appreciate that it has to be secure, but there seems to be no obvious way in. There are four screw about an inch in from each corner on the top and I presume that they hold the amp section in place. But there's a wire from the amp going down to the speaker, so if I slide the amp out, won't I be unable to get that wire back in place? Ther alternative is to unscrew the corner plates and take then entire wooden top off the box, but that would entail damaging the plastic / paper covering of the amp which goes over the join between the sides. Here are some pictures that might help (not mine I'm afraid - camera's up the spout.) Front and top Back - showing the type of socket I need to replace. Any advice before I tear it to pieces would be greatfeully received.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='936331' date='Aug 25 2010, 07:54 PM']It may be worth checking that it is not just spade connectors on the back of your socket.[/quote] Is this the sort of thing that I'd be wanting to install? Someone else has told me it might just attach with screws on the wires, like fitting a plug. [url="http://uk.farnell.com/apsa/1049-ws/socket-iec-16a-panel/dp/1216334"]http://uk.farnell.com/apsa/1049-ws/socket-...anel/dp/1216334[/url] Okay - my next question is .... how the hell do I get into the thing? I appreciate that it has to be secure, but there seems to be no obvious way in. There are four screw about an inch in from each corner on the top and I presume that they hold the amp section in place. But there's a wire from the amp going down to the speaker, so if I slide the amp out, won't I be unable to get that wire back in place? Ther alternative is to unscrew the corner plates and take then entire wooden top off the box, but that would entail damaging the plastic / paper covering of the amp which goes over the join between the sides. Here are some pictures that might help (not mine I'm afraid - camera's up the spout.) Front and top Back - showing the type of socket I need to replace. Any advice before I tear it to pieces would be gratefully received.

[quote name='endorka' post='936046' date='Aug 25 2010, 02:59 PM']I would have thought anyone competent with a soldering iron could fix this. If you yourself are such a person, you could buy a replacement socket from, say, Maplin, and do so. Jennifer[/quote] Unfortunately, me and soldering irons have never really got on. But I'm glad to hear it's an easy fix.

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='936045' date='Aug 25 2010, 02:58 PM']Find a Maplin and it's a pretty easy d.i.y. job[/quote] Will it need any soldering doing?

Or can it just go to a high street electrical repair shop? Don't know how this happend on my little Laney practice amp - but went to plug in this morning and the plastic around the socket has broken and the socket's floating free inside. Maybe the cats knocked it over and it landed on the lead. I've posted this in the repair section, but didn't think the question was specialised enough for that section.

Or can it just go to a high street electrical repair shop? Don't know how this happend on my little Laney practice amp - but went to plug in this morning and the plastic around the socket has broken and the socket's floating free inside. Just want to know if I'd have to schedule a visit to an amp specialist.

there's always the Behringer Ultra DI-100 One of the few thing Behringer make that are pretty good. [url="http://www.guitarampkeyboard.com/en/behringer-di-100/1615"]http://www.guitarampkeyboard.com/en/behringer-di-100/1615[/url]