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The Funk

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  1. Good advice. I have heard - perhaps from you earlier but also from the tech who worked on my amp - that products for the Japanese market are designed to prevent voltage conversion. I was lucky that my one, which I purchased from Japan, turned out OK.
  2. To finish off my story, I got the conversion done by a reputable audio electronics shop in Singapore called Well Audio Labs. Swee Lee is the authorised repairer / service centre for Aguilar in Singapore and they contacted Korg for a copy of the schematic which they passed on to my tech. Swee Lee told me that they also could have done the job. It was a relatively simple job for a professional but not a suitable task for an amateur like me. I think it involves swapping over a few wires on the power transformer and changing a fuse or two. In hindsight, I think Korg were trying to prevent me from harming myself or the power amp. It is a great power amp, which is designed for voltage conversion to be done safely by a professional, and customer service at Korg still works after the acquisition of Aguilar. If you are looking for one of these on the secondhand market, don’t be put off if it would require voltage conversion. Aguilar thought of that when they designed them.
  3. Thanks, Paul. What you’ve described there is beyond me so I will try an amp tech here. I’ll post an update once I have one.
  4. Thanks, Bill. I’ll ask around for recommendations over here.
  5. I don’t understand any of it but it looks wonderful to me for some reason!
  6. It seems the potentially lethal stuff is hidden away underneath this top layer, for relatively quick and safe valve changes.
  7. Hi all. It’s been many years since I’ve posted anything. I have recently purchased an old Aguilar DB728 tube power amp from Japan, which is set to 100V operation. I live in Singapore now which uses UK-style 240V power. I know I could get a step-down/step-up transformer to use with this but I was wondering if there is a simple way to change the voltage setting in the power amp. I have an old Aguilar DB680 which I purchased many years ago from the US. I took it to a tech back when I lived in London, who changed it to 240V operation - I think by just changing a fuse but I did not ask him. I also have an old Aguilar DB659 which I purchased from the US a couple of years ago. Aguilar tech support told me how to change the voltage setting to 240V operation and it only involved moving an internal part around and swapping in a different value fuse. The old Aguilar tech support now seems to be general Korg tech support so I’m not getting any answers from them other than to take it to a tech. I am not sure if there are any techs over here in Singapore I would trust with it - and if it is as simple as the DB659 was, then I would be able to follow any instructions and do it myself. Does anyone have any knowledge of how to do this? Many thanks!
  8. Thank you for all that information! I assumed the SG/EB was also from Fujigen Gakki but only because I have seen Ibanez guitar/bass doublenecks from the era which look identical. The serial numbers on the Antoria and CMI both start 76 so I assumed they were from 1976. These guitar/bass doublenecks are very cool but also suddenly started feeling very heavy after my 40th birthday. Amplifying them is also rather difficult as they only have a single output jack.
  9. I have a pair of late ‘70s Japanese doublenecks (guitar neck / bass neck) which were made in the same factory as the Ibanez models of the era but rebadged with a different name on the headstock for the UK market. One of them says Antoria and the other says CMJ.
  10. I’m a bit late to the party but I tried one of these yesterday in Singapore. It seems very much vintage-accurate for the first iteration of the Stingray. I have a Stingray Classic which I picked up around 5 years ago on Facebook Marketplace which does the job for me - but this is still a very cool bass. It is far cheaper here in Singapore than the UK, in part because taxes are much lower, at 8% GST as opposed to 20% VAT. My friend actually put a deposit down on it (and the total here is equivalent to around £2850, not £4200). For a cheaper alternative, if you get a Made in Japan Stingray EX, it will have the correct vintage-style bridge with the foam mutes. Chuck in a vintage-style 2-band EQ, like the John East for example, and then you’re basically there soundwise for a fraction of the cost.
  11. I have the A5 Ultra Fretless. It's a great instrument. It plays great and the killer part is the tone: you get an acoustic-sounding piezo pickup, you get an electric fretless-sounding Lace Sensor magnetic pickup, and then you also get the MIDI capability. You need a (discontinued) Roland-style guitar MIDI interface like the GI-10 or GI-20 and a special cable to connect the two. Once you have that you can just plug a MIDI cable out from the the interface into any MIDI instrument you like.
  12. Is this bass still available or has it now been sold?
  13. Hi there. Apologies for resurrecting a very old thread. Do you have one for sale and have you managed to get a patent yet? Thanks!
  14. Wow! Worth a trip to Geordieland for this one. By the time I get funds this will probably be gone. Good luck with the sale. (Hopefully for me it’s still around in a few weeks.)
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