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gillento

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Everything posted by gillento

  1. Traded my Baer cabs with Mauricio. He is a real gentleman! Anytime again:)
  2. My RMI Basswitch IQ is the heart and brains of my board. It takes care of all my routing and switching needs 100% of the time. + the DI is one of the best clean DIs on the market!
  3. now for sale as well [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]£ 460 / 540€ per cab (cover incl.)[/font][/color]
  4. Traded my Rodenberg 727B with Ryan. He is a top notch guy!!!
  5. I think it depends on the type of PU material used. Usually Fender (type) instruments have AlNiCo based PUs whereas a lot of more modern sounding basses have ceramic based PUs. The ceramic based PUs have, IMHO at least, a "hi-mid gank" whicj makes them sound "sterile" and nasal sonding with OD pedals. There is another factor I don't like with ceramic PU equipped basses. When you play higher up the neck, with AlNiCo PUs, the sound just gets fatter (muddier even, if not eq-ed properly). With ceramic PUs this isn't the case..... I prefer the former:)
  6. I like my db212 better than my ML112 mini stack. So..... I'd like to swap my two ML112 for your db112/112nt mini stack. The ML112 are in mint condition and will come in the original shipping boxes. specs: [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Baer_Amplification.html"]http://www.bassdirec...lification.html[/url] Included are custom made padded covers my d2fcovers.com.(600x600 denier polyester material (exterior) bonded to a light foam padding (1/4 inch) with a soft brushed nylon tricot interior.) detailed pics: [url="https://plus.google.com/photos/103460857870169247954/albums/5875306251206880721?authkey=CNLHmNyV9NnUxwE"]https://plus.google....CNLHmNyV9NnUxwE[/url] sale price: £ 460 / 540€ per cab (cover incl.) about me: [font=Helvetica][size=3]Basschat: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=64788"]http://basschat.co.u...showtopic=64788[/url][/size][/font] [font=Helvetica][size=3]Talkbass: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/itrader.php?u=63576"]http://www.talkbass....der.php?u=63576[/url][/size][/font] [font=Helvetica][size=3]ebay: [url="http://feedback.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=gillento&ftab=AllFeedback""]http://feedback.ebay...llFeedback"[/url][/size][/font] [font=Helvetica][size=3]website: www.loes.lu[/size][/font] [font=Helvetica][size=3]facebook: [url="https://www.facebook.com/gillento"]https://www.facebook.com/gillento[/url][/size][/font]
  7. Sold my sfx mThumpinator to the V. He is very nice to deal with. Thanks!
  8. gillento

    sold

    What's the weigth and string spacing on this one?
  9. [quote name='Lfalex v1.1' timestamp='1366911376' post='2059001'] So, what's wrong with good ol' screwdrivers? [/quote] Nothing, they are perfect! That's why I am wondering why Fender is using allen keys for intonation.
  10. No worries, My original question has been answered by -Matt-, anyway! It is no apples to ranges comparison, but the specs are a bit different. the Fender is alder/RW P and the Nordy is an ash/RW PJ. The Fender has the original Fender PU and the Nordy has the NP5 PU in the P position. The Nordy PU is known to be more agressive (They are offering a more vintage orientated P PU, as well) Indeed, the Nordy is sounding "quicker" in the mids, whereas the Fender seems a bit mightier/thicker in the low mids and has a slightly lower overall output. The Fender neck is a bit mightier as well. The Fender feels and sounds a bit more traditionnal, whereas the Nordy sounds a bit "faster" and more modern. Both are excellent basses and built quailty is (almost) equal. As for my taste/needs, I prefer the Nordy, due having the best neck (for MY hands) I ever played and using the additional J PU very often (even if the blend is only about 20%) The irritating thin about the Fender is indeed, is having to use allen keys in order to change intonation. I find it much easier to use a regular screw driver for a quick intonation setup. But the main difference between both basses is the more mellow sound of the Fender... Hope this helps
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