FlatEric

[quote name='Ant' timestamp='1349687572' post='1828990'] whats a reasonable price to ask for a red t40 without any pickups? few dings etc, includes hardcase [/quote] Hi. What happened to the pick-ups?? Are you the guy who was putting them in something else? Got any pics of the bass "sans pups" ? Cheers.

[quote name='vicar' timestamp='1349618123' post='1828313'] Anyone seen a scratch plate like this? [/quote] Yep! This is how all the Peavey's came from new. It is a clear, printed skin - it showed how the controls work. Now quite rare and the one shown has the very rare foam mute, which came with the bass when new and fits into that slot into the front of the bridge! Aha, you say - now I know what that part of the bridge is for! I have [i]never [/i]seen one fitted. This bass also has the early case - I have one, as well. Getting back to the skin - after all these years, it may be quite difficult to get it off, if you wanted to. It would perhaps be best to leave it on but may be a bit odd looking on stage. One another note, it would not sound or play any different to the one you have. Cheers.

[quote name='Ancient Mariner' timestamp='1349341934' post='1824849'] The re-built Washburn Hawk that I bought sans hardware from Noelk27 here. [/quote] Very nice indeed!! Don't see many of these.

[quote name='Machines' timestamp='1347293729' post='1798934'] Yeah my eBay notifications are configured to tell me when a T-40 gets listed, looks quite popular already ! [/quote] Now, you know what you said about keeping the old fella, so look away now!!

Posted this up in Bass Guitars - Peavey T-40. Looks nice. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peavey-T40-Bass-Guitar-/261095022363?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3cca79df1b"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peavey-T40-Bass-Guitar-/261095022363?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3cca79df1b[/url] Cheers.

I was put onto this by a fellow Forty Fan - Neither of us need any more!! I will also put it up in ebay links. These very rarely come up and with a RW board, even more scarce!! [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peavey-T40-Bass-Guitar-/261095022363?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3cca79df1b"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peavey-T40-Bass-Guitar-/261095022363?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3cca79df1b[/url] I would like to see more pics, if it was me but described as MINT, so ask all the right questions about any marks/faults and you should be covered. Looks nice! Cheers.

I watched it, as well. What a tone - What feeling! Always imagine Pino and a Precision - playing a Music Man on the clip. Sounded Luvverly!!

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1346957808' post='1795394'] Almost. There are various ways of wiring up such cabs, though I'm not familiar enough with 'standard practice' (if there is one) to give a definitive answer of how that ARE wired, only how they MIGHT be wired. A 210 cab could be wired as: 2 x 16ohm drivers in parallel to give an 8 ohm cab 2 x 4ohm drivers in series to give an 8 ohm cab a 410 cab could be wired as: 4 x 32ohm drivers in parallel to give an 8 ohm cab 2 x 8ohm drivers in series to give 16 ohms and these two in parallel with another 2 x 8ohm drivers in series, which gives an 8 ohm cab 4 x 2ohm drivers in series to give 8 ohms The only way to be sure is to open up the cab and check the actual wiring (and the labels on the drivers!). [/quote] Mmm, some food for thought!! Thanks. When the night start to draw in and I find myself needing something to do, I shall have a play around. Cheers.

Ah, I didn't think it was that simple!! If my 4 x 10 is 8 Ohm in one socket and my 2 x 10 extension is 8 Ohm, out of the other socket, the amp will run a 4 Ohm, which is what it will do as per manufacturers spec. So. . . . in the 4 x 10, what impedance is each speaker and how are they wired and in the 2 x 10, same question. You [i]may [/i]see where I am going with this. Cheers.

Beautiful. . . . . but would you seriously want to gig it?? Only fifteen made! Think it won't see much action, unlike it's grandfathers, who are still out there, night after night, giving good reliable service. Very nice, though! Cheers.

Up to now, I have used all sorts of stuff over the years but never ended up with what I want to try now. Over a period of time - trades, swaps, purchases - I have ended up with three 2 x 10 cabs and a 1 x 15, all Ashdown. I always use one of the 2 x 10 with a combo or if more power is needed I have a Hartke 8 x 10, with a 500 watt head. My heads all have two outputs. This is what I want to try. Three 2 x 10 or two 2 x 10 and one 1 x 15 or three 2 x 10 and one 1 x 15!! All cabs are 8 ohm, all with at least two sockets (one is an ABM with two Jack and one Speakon) How is this done and what will be the impedance? Can anyone help? It may be simple but I don't want to do any damage to my gear. Cheers.

I nearly bought one, a couple of years ago - nothing wrong with the bass, he just wanted too much and wouldn't budge! From memory, it was a bit head heavy - punchy sound, neck more P than J - Sort of Gibson ish, if that makes any sense. I'm almost certain it was long scale, although it looks like it should be medium scale. I don't remember it being heavy but as I play various T-40's, it would have felt light, anyway!! Don't know about the routing. I think Jon (Bassassin) had one of these and liked it. Don't think they fetch huge money - apart from the one I was trying to buy! Cheers.

I keep meaning to put this in here, as it is a stunning piece of John's early work. It has appeared in Basschat before but not here, in the Jaydee section. The player is Richard "Fez" Ferriday, with the band Cryer. Very nice. Cheers.

Hi. I have had several e.mails over the last year, asking how long strings need to be to fit an Ovation Magnum Bass. Go here: [url="http://flatericbassandguitar.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/ovation-magnum-bass.html"]http://flatericbassandguitar.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/ovation-magnum-bass.html[/url] and all will be revealed. Hope this helps. Cheers.

[quote name='q_of_doom' timestamp='1345644728' post='1779929'] And here are the pic's. Not the finest example on this thread, but for £115 for the bass as seen, it's not too bad. I've spent an extra: • £55 for an extra set of pickups (in perfect shape with) with perfectly intact pickup rings, pots and switches • £15 for the missing tone knob • £17 for an un-cracked original pickguard All in all, I now have a solid, versatile touring bass for under £200 (rubbing hands, grinning self-contently). Oh and of course, I hope there will be that feeling of accomplishment in a month or two when I've completely disassembled and fixed it up myself. While waiting for my parts to arrive, I've started stripping and polishing up all the bits that I can. Expect frantic PM's as soon as the real work starts, FlatEric. *For the life of me, I don't know why the pics are turned sideways when uploaded.* [/quote] Mmm, the old fella has been around a bit! Still, no matter - Built like a Mac Truck!!! With the parts you have and a little TLC, sounds like you'll have it back into shape in no time! You may as well change the switches - they are easy to get hold of and then you'll have a belter! You say it's a 1980 - so the serial will be between 0048 and 0065. 32 years old! Inside, it should look something like this! These are off my Blade Project T-40 but essentially, same sparks. Keep me posted. Cheers.

[quote name='LemonCello' timestamp='1345393900' post='1777022'] I've played Nick's Outlaw and what a machine. I don't think he's finished it yet. Yours looks like an absolute minter, I drooled over the one that Andy Baxter had until someone saved me £650 quid! [/quote] This won't help you gas much - they are really nice to play. Not "Run of the Mill" and definately something a bit different! I lusted after one for a L O N G time and took me ages to find the right one. One day you will crack! Cheers.

[quote name='cocco' timestamp='1345569540' post='1778983'] Dammit! My 78 toaster has bats [/quote] Calm down!! Your bass may have replacement switches - they are perhaps small bats!! The should be the same as your Sunburst! The Peavey Bat switches, look like this: If they are working - leave them. If the look is important, let me know and for the price of a lot of Real Ale, for me and the good lady, I could sort it. Think I will do a feature in my blog, of all the subtle differences of the T Series. From Bodies to cases! There are not that many but it may help other owners. Cheers.

[quote name='q_of_doom' timestamp='1345398391' post='1777084'] Mine is indeed a toaster, and by small you mean? The ones I have on are round bats as opposed to flat. I'm waiting for my parts (shipping to South Africa takes time) and the big disassemble and rebuilding will begin. Thank you kindly for the offer. No doubt I will need all the help I can get. [/quote] A 1980 would not have Bat switches - these were only on the last of the "Blades". Post up some pics of the beast!! Cheers.

[quote name='Gust0o' timestamp='1345460812' post='1777662'] Out of interest, what is the reported weight of the T40? I hear "heavy" a lot, but that's a very subjective measure. And sometimes "heavy" has it's benefits, not least in giving you an unintentional work out! [/quote] [u]This is something I posted some time ago.[/u] "One of the things that is often said about the T-40 is how powerful the pups are and how you can dial in a lot of different subtle tone differences. Although they were all machine made and feel pretty much the same, they all have slight differences in sound. Two of the same year, side by side, have a difference. Pretty much in line with other makes, I guess. In reality, this would only make a difference in a studio, live - you would not be able to tell. The other thing is the weight. Well, compared to a Steinberger, yes! Compared to a Jazz or Precision, Yes. I do have heavier, though - an Ibanez Studio that you could knock posts into the ground with!! I was thinking about this, earlier this year, when I opened up my '79 to sort out an annoying crackle, I decided to strip it down, clean it up and give it a good service. I weighed the parts on a very accurate industrial scale. The body was 2.15Kg - 4.73 lbs, neck 1.16KG - 2.55 lbs and all the remaining parts were 1.45KG - 3.19 lbs. Total 4.76KG - 10.49 lbs. When you consider that each bridge saddle weighs about one ounce and the whole bridge, assembled, is just under 1 lb, at 15 ounces, I think that's what tipped it over the edge! Does anyone know of a heavier bridge?? Having weighed some of the others, 10.5 lbs is about on the mark. Does this add to the sound? Well, all things considered, I suppose it does. What are they like to gig with? Well, our sets are about 45 to 50 minutes and it doesn't bother me, in fact after a while you get used to it and then going back to something lighter/smaller, feels a bit odd. I use a standard Wrangler strap, no padding." I do have a "Heavy One" A Nautral Blade but it's also perhaps the most powerful.

[quote name='q_of_doom' timestamp='1345382768' post='1776871'] Hello all. I've also recently become part of the club with a 1980, natural, maple boarded toaster. Like many mine has seen a bit of abuse over the years and had a bit of back alley open-heart surgery performed by drunken quacks. Mine's phase switch sits below the bridge (thus swopped with the pickup selector) and the pick up rings are busted, like so many others and the pickups are shedding a bit of skin on the vinyl. I've managed to score original rings and pickups in great condition, as well as switches for little more than what replacement rings would on Ebay. A replacement knob set me back $25 and that's also roughly what I payed for an original, uncracked pickguard with the white indicator dots. Now, before I head on over to the T-40 Forum and speak to strangers , I thought I'd post my questions here first. I've seen two types of switches for these basses of this vintage, the flat ones and the baseball bat types. I've also seen them mixed up on the same bass. Which are the correct ones for the 1980 basses, and is there a source that has all the subtle changes mapped out for easy identification? I have a feeling this won't be the last T-40 in my collection. Also, mine's phase switch only works when the individual pickups are selected, leading me to believe that the last alcoholic surgeon that's worked on her is facing a malpractice suit. Thanks so much for all the info here already. I'm already keeping my ear to the ground for blade. Also, you might want to have a look at [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/184684-losing-weight-a-peavey-t-40-t-60-workout/"]this[/url] if you've ever thought your T-40 was too heavy. [/quote] Hi, fellow owner. If yours is the Toaster type, which I believe it is - it has the small switches. PM me with you woes and I will try and help. Cheers.

[quote name='simwells' timestamp='1345066184' post='1773230'] Know it's been ages but is there any chance the offer is still open? Would be nice to swap out the pair in mine and would be interested to know if it works out better value than fretsonthenet. [/quote] Never got round to this - I was going to offer them at cost to help me get the four I would like. I think if anyone was interested could PM me, I would keep a list and when there were enough, go for it. So, anyone interested, let me know and the more I get made, the cheaper they will be and. . . . as a T-40 nut, they would be as close as poss' to the originals.

Chip started doing this some time ago. One of his regrets was the weight of the bodies. They are not ALL heavy - I have a few Forty's that are lighter than some 70's Ash P's and J's I have played. Ibanez Studios are just as weighty but for me, it's all about balance. I have lighter basses that don't balance a well and are more of a pain at the end of a night. Anything Head Heavy is nornally balanced by "applying" weight with your forearm to balance it, therefore more of a drag on your shoulder. Ask Cocco, Noillag and Machines! Horses for courses. Cheers.

[quote name='51m0n' timestamp='1345207088' post='1774973'] Nonsense. Adding level anywhere in the frequency range, such that you overload the maximum clean input level of whatever preamp you are talking about will cause distortion. So what he means is adding more volume may cause breakup. Cutting any area will not ever add more distortion. Since you are removing level. However it may not specifically lessen distortion, if the distortion is produced from a large amount of level in another area of the frequency spectrum. So if you have a signal that is 60dB higher at 200Hz and 12Khz than it is at 1Khx, but it is still under the headroom of the input gain of the pre, then you will have a clean but ridiculously scooped sound. If you then bring the gain up on that sound you will clip at the top and bottom of the frequency range, but quite probably not really in the middle. If you cut the bass and treble you will eventually clean that signal up. Note you didnt cut the mids! [/quote] [quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1345236212' post='1775507'] I wonder if this idea might have come about due to the design quirks of guitar amps? On amps which use a Fender or Marshall type tone stack, the midrange control affects the attenuation across all frequencies, not just the midrange, so turning the mid knob up will indeed give you a few dB more gain overall. This might be why the idea that "more mids = more distortion" is specifically a guitarist thing. [/quote] Thanks for clearing that up. "If the gain is set, just before clipping and then you add the middle, or anything else, it will tip it over the edge but just adding middle, will not create distortion". is what I said. Seem like that is what has been said here. I shall put my point across again. Cheers.