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BassTool

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Posts posted by BassTool

  1. Have you tried a heat gun and scraper?

    My BlazerRay original finish came straight off pretty quickly with a standard wallpaper scraper and a Dewalt heatgun, and not a gouge anywhere. I may have got lucky of course, but worth a try 😎

  2. 7 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

    And what a pleasure that was.  If I had to choose the favourite bass I've ever held in my hands, it would be - without doubt, that one.  Couldn't tell you why.  It just felt magical.

     Now that.

     

    Is surely saying something 😯

    • Like 1
  3. 7 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

    Fretboard levelled and re-finished.  Just the nut to cut - I'm using a Graphtech Tusq blank from my bits box and it will be slotted to just shy of the fretboard top. 

    5KFnuB7l.jpg 

     

    👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 Brilliant 👌🏼

    • Thanks 1
  4. Bought a chorus from Mick, first class communication, speedy delivery and very well packaged. Top work from a top Basschatter, he's Mick the Greek, and well known round these parts for his reliability 👌🏼

    Thanks Mick 👍🏼

    • Thanks 1
  5. 49 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

    So why is cutting the two 4mmx4mm slots such a challenge?

    Well, with a standard router, you have to fix the neck immovably and dead flat - and then you have to get the router itself to run in a dead straight path for half a meter with less than 0.2mm drift.  And, unlike a Fender neck, the headstock on the Vox doesn't sit flat with the heel - so there are no convenient surfaces to put double-sided tape to stop the neck moving around (which, if it happened, would spell disaster).  And you can't use clamps because they get in the way of the router  :(

    Then, with a router table, you don't have to clamp the neck at all.  BUT you would normally run the side of the neck along the table fence which gives you the dimensional accuracy...but then the headstock would hit the fence and move it a couple of inches...not good for the 'no more than 0.2mm drift' :(

    So enter the, probably, least used accessory that comes in some of the Dremel sets - the radius jig:

    W9cYWhEl.jpg

    Now, for cutting radii, 'precision' is emphatically not its middle name.

    But I'm not thinking of using it to cut a radius :)

    Add a spare strip of 2mm thick binding (in the picture above)...then fitting the Dremel with a decent quality and sharp 1.6mm router bit:

    eHdgPeml.jpg

    Then inset the binding strip into the slot and run the router (keeping it square) up the slot, keeping firm pressure of the jig spike against the binding strip:

    FTz2T4bl.jpg

    ...gives me a 1.5mm slot parallel to the trussrod slot.  Then removing the binding strip and repeating, this time running the jig spike along the side of the trussrod slot:

    nOzmDXZl.jpg

    ...gives me a slot 3.6mm wide - giving me, at worst, a modicum of inadvertent  drift room or, at best, a small tidy up with a sharp chisel.

    Then turn it round and repeat on the other side.

    Might work :party:

     

    👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼🤞🏼

    • Like 1
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