3below

Whilst I agree with this in principle there are some practical difficulties. SI units made my professional work much easier (physics - and I am old enough to have used Imperial, cgs, mks and SI) I am now on what will be my last big project, 1780s house restoration. Everything is Imperial (or somewhere close, i.e. whatever was to hand). There are some metric equivalents but also many features that have to be made to size. My working knowledge of Imperial is still useful.

Just had a quick look on the back of my Peavey Tour 700 which claims 700w rms @ 52.9 V rms. Quick calculation gives Irms =13.2A. I just use offcuts of mains cable, perfectly adequate I also use Speakons.

I also have the same there shirts with epoxy and CA glue. CA skilfully evades careful handling.

Some of these are really good, others are poor quality zinc (?) castings. I found the stainless steel ones best when inserting into mahogany or ply, the coarse thread ones (as shown) sometimes do not self tap and pull the ply laminations apart. Using the stainless ones and thread tapping the wood hole produced the best results (superglue or epoxy them in if you want total solidity) This avoids wrecking wood near to the speaker hole., there are no prizes for guessing how I know.

So important to do the things you want to do together - I have the reverse situation, I am 67, other half is 55. She is going to get out this year, we have things to do I just describe myself as a 'man of leisure' although I have had plenty of work from when I made myself redundant and took early retirement.

A complex balancing act.....

Or, the variation on that quote, "I wish I had spent more time at work"

This thread is such a worthwhile read. Life events can take you (or your significant other) at any time without warning. I have had a TIA in the last 10 days, luckily I seem unaffected - the double vision at the time was an experience not to be repeated. It is good reminder that this is not a practice run

Yes, you can also coat the port flange (if it has one) with copydex or similar if you are concerned about sealing. I guess it could be sanded smooth as well. I obtained my best tuffcab finish by dabbing it on with a washing up sponge resulting in textured leathercloth lookalike finish.

There are other variables in the band situation that you have no control over, not least you are listening to the band who will not be consistent. Stating the obvious, you will respond to their playing. As an example, in my 3 piece we play a be-bop 12 bar number. Bpm is surprisingly critical and quite narrow in range. Outside this range I have to change what I woukd ideally play. After 54+ years of bass playing I accept that I am not perfect, I make mistakes, I get things right, I improve, sometimes I am way off, sometimes I am really good, and I find some stuff hard. Most importantly I play to have fun and enjoy the shared experience. My 2p, focus on the enjoyment of music, let the rest come from that.

Bought a Hercules stand from John. Really well packed and arrived faster than a fast thing. Great communication, top BC chap. Many thanks.

I had mine sorted by Jon Shuker, now better than when it was new. @Andyjr1515 has documented truss rod replacements, I can also personally recommend @Manton Customs, however I am sure there are similarly skilled luthiers near to you.

Dual action rod should have the bullet welded on, earlier G&L basses have a removable truss rod nut and mixed reviews. I would take it to a luthier who knows what they are doing. I have two USA G&L basses - one since 1990, totally solid, the other (circa 2006) decided that the trussrod needed to make a break for freedom. You have the bonus of a rosewood fretboard, if a trussrod replacement is needed it is do-able.