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3below

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    Mid Wales

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  1. Often fitted with shoulder straps, I use one for leads, tuner, DI / effects. Makes small gigs a one trip walk in. Bigger laptop cases good for mixers (small) and other larger kit. If you are not near Wellingborough then charity shops have endless supplies of them. GLWTS. In the same vein, I use a roller wheel soft bag for all the PA cabling. They are much more forgiving on the car interior as well.
  2. The ebony dust / epoxy (or ca glue) method mentioned by @Andyjr1515 works really well. The filled holes will be virtually invisible.
  3. Just checked the starting post - fretless (my short term memory is a slight casualty of a recent event). Being fretless there is even more reason to go ahead. If the board breaks get an ebony board fitted as a bonus.
  4. The truss rod (actually the wood it works on) on my G&L L1505 failed resulting in fretboard lift and breakage. Jon Shuker repaired it, the new board is many times better than the original. My takeaway is that even if you fail to get the fretboard off intact all is not lost. A new board can be fitted. You have nothing to lose at this stage.
  5. This looks great fun, I really do not need another bass cab. I have had two BF cabs with wheels like this, a really good idea.
  6. Not sure what is going on but I have had problems with speakon copy plugs. Genuine Neutrik plugs & sockets work perfectly.
  7. These are a great bass, not a one trick pony. Lightweight and versatile, records really well The fretwork on mine is astonishingly good, my Sg bass (same era) is my go to bass (and I have far too may 'quality' basses to choose from). No connection with @Clarky, GLWTS.
  8. I had a set of these on my DB during my db era. Rated them very highly, long lasting and (for me) a sane tension. GLWTS.
  9. What I find happens on the next build is that new 'blunders' step up to the task giving the previous ones respite.
  10. Check very carefully on pack up, the forensics might give away that non-domestic activities may have taken place. A great account of the build, inspiring for warmer weather.
  11. I bought one of these (plus the combo version) from @Raslee. Excellent bit of kit, does what it should, an easy one hand lift with the top handle.
  12. Rubber doorstops, they come in a variety of sizes (Google tells me 20mm to 76mm height). Screw the grille into the frame as per @Phil Starr then some door stops near the middle, black washers and bolts and T nut them in. The advantage of these is that you can position them to kill any unwanted vibrations in addition to improving the kick resistance. Strangely in 55+ years of gigging this has never happened, I must be playing the wrong gigs. Plenty of impacts with doors, furniture, car parts and other kit though.
  13. Whilst I agree with this in principle there are some practical difficulties. SI units made my professional work much easier (physics - and I am old enough to have used Imperial, cgs, mks and SI) I am now on what will be my last big project, 1780s house restoration. Everything is Imperial (or somewhere close, i.e. whatever was to hand). There are some metric equivalents but also many features that have to be made to size. My working knowledge of Imperial is still useful.
  14. Just had a quick look on the back of my Peavey Tour 700 which claims 700w rms @ 52.9 V rms. Quick calculation gives Irms =13.2A. I just use offcuts of mains cable, perfectly adequate I also use Speakons.
  15. I also have the same there shirts with epoxy and CA glue. CA skilfully evades careful handling.
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