3below

Easy check for loose valves - switch off (elf n safety), open cage or whatever that covers valves, gently wiggle them back in. See what happens. After that the next stages depend on how the Blackstar is constructed and your ability to work safely with valve amps, discharging smoothing capacitors prior to working inside chassis (or knowing whether it has bleed resistor) . If you are not ok with that stage do not attempt next bit. If it is pcb with modern push connectors, one of these may have worked loose. Check they are seated correctly. If it is point to point or similar check for any wires that have detached, if found re-solder. After these simple checks the going gets tougher, test equipment and ideally circuit diagram with test voltages needed (or a good valve amp tech).

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]1. Folk-blues[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]2. Approx 1cm at the end of the board on the E, falling to 0.8cm on the G[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]3. Corelli 370[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]4. Schaller magnetic[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]5. Peavey Tour 700 + Barefaced Dubster[/font][/color]

Reading the BFM site and forums you will also most likely need some form of eq. Behringer DEQ2496 processor seems to be well thought of on BFM forum. The low cost route would be suitable flat response mic and laptop software to measure response in room, then s/h 31 band eq.

I had no complaints about the quality of my 1977 precision, bought new, other than I had to set the neck alignment. The action was the lowest I have ever achieved on a bass. These days I prefer high action so that benefit is wasted on me.

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' timestamp='1355178707' post='1895196'] Staedtler, Berol or sharpie? Come on , it can't be that simple , we need a heated debate. [/quote] Is this another Bass forum, am I in the wrong place ? I am told the 10 Vintage Berol is snappier than the 08 Sharpie but only in the higher register.

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' timestamp='1355177108' post='1895162'] I use black nylon covered strings on my fretless basses, this solution would probably last forever. [/quote] I do as well on one of mine, the same set since 1981, seriously. They are still really good. Whether the permanent marker solution will outlast the strings is thus open to debate

Try a simple low damage method. If the lines are plastic inserts, get a black or brown (depending on ebony colour) permanent marker pen ( [url="http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&q=staedtler+permanent+marker&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bpcl=39650382&biw=1092&bih=505&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=6895590855099130917&sa=X&ei=31XGUNSZO4qK0AXL8oDoAQ&sqi=2&ved=0CF8Q8wIwBA"]Staedtler[/url] ). This used carefully will colour the lines for a long time. Re-apply as and when.

I guess you should be able to sand the lines off with fine paper. An alternate might be gentle application of paint stripper - small amount on a cloth?. Rather than lines, why not insert side dots at the fret positions. You can get away with positions 1,3,5,7,9,12 etc.

Totally edited out my earlier thoughts having looked at ebay, noted is mex tele so my comments N/A based on USA teles. Top E machine head looks misaligned (unless is photo distortion, very improbable with CNC tooling to drill the peg head location hole (1 on mex, two on usa I believe). In 40 yrs of guitar / bass playing (and 5 fenders of own) have never seen serial worn away on headstock. Then again it could happen.

Where is Mr Claber when you need him? Two 12" hmmm, now try my Barefaced Dubster with 700W (real W not class D Watts ) feel the power.

[quote name='mart' timestamp='1354382525' post='1885434'] This. In 2 lines Rhys has captured the sum total of human knowledge on this question. There really isn't anything to add to it. [/quote] One thing to add, in the long term, when you come to a refret, rosewood will be cheaper than maple - no relaquer. Other than that the above applies.

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1354254132' post='1884113'] I think we should all also consider a decent running in period for new cables. They can be very dellicate until properly broken in. [/quote] Should we have a running in period for the electrons

[quote name='Ancient Mariner' timestamp='1354133543' post='1882606'] How much are they asking? Is it worth taking a punt, knowing you can part it out and flog the bits without losing if it's an iffy copy with nice parts? [/quote] Agree, above is the key question.

Need to see pics, lots of them. You may be lucky in one of two ways: a bargain genuine USA, or a bargain well made 'clone'. Then again you could be unlucky

I have no problem, they can both play guitar in my band, they seem pretty proficient. How do I contact them?

£10 bargain, now re-port the cab to match modern (cheap) driver, will make a good practice amp, spare etc. Then again as above, remove head, make case.

Not far away, but in Mid Wales, scratch gig in Llanidloes 8th December - see some on the fly bass playing - or not perhaps.

[quote name='BassPimp66' timestamp='1353833327' post='1878749'] If you try to drive a 500W cabinet, with a 10 W amp, the amp may burn/explode/disintegrate trying to keep up. [/quote] The speaker is rated to thermally disspate 500W, it does not demand 500W from the amplifier. The 10W amplifier is rated to supply 10W (rms, AES, peak, phony Watts, makebelieve Watts, whatever) to the speaker. If the amplifier burns/explodes/disintegrates it is either due to a fault condition or poor design engineering and implementation, i.e. unable to operate at maximum power.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1353351721' post='1874141'] Watts don't break cabs. Stupid breaks cabs. Ask him if he's stupid, if he says 'no', you can assure him in that case the cab won't break. That's science. [/quote] agree, and put another way, when it sounds like you are destroying your speakers, you are. When it 'farts' turn it down. Action: Point to volume control in exaggerated way. I find the Crown XTi 6000 has plenty of 'headroom' into the 4" speaker 2.5W bass cab. Just unable to get the volume knob above 0.5 Have not destroyed the speaker yet.

It is not about need.

Natural finish.. which has best / prettiest grain / joins to your taste Solid finish... which is lightest. Now pickups.... let the debate begin? On a guitard thing I have two USA strats, the ash one is gorgeous to look at, furniture grade piece. weighs a ton . the other (alder/popla IDK) light, responsive, not pretty though, paint sinkage. Tone differences? they are both strats.

The late Boz Burrell, Bad Company. Many stunning songs.

Is there anything you can do to prevent same again, cable ties? break away lead / connector? looped cable to give 'safety margin'? Glad to hear all is good though.