3below

Can you post some close up pictures of both sides of the broken bit - repair may (and is only may) be possible.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1349211592' post='1823479'] So 3below - at the risk of hijacking this thread - what kind of gigs do you do, and what is your rig? [/quote] Mainly at work these days (don't ask), involving audience up to 800, no pa support. Barefaced Dubster and before that Big One. Light, sensible size,loud and great clarity - the big hifi is my best take. Hope that helps.

The wait will be worth it - trust me

High powered valve head and passive cooling should be possible. How high powered are we going? Simple solution is a 'birdcage', complying with current regs about mesh size (what can / can not be inserted lol) combined with making the footprint large. For the more trad look (Hiwatt/Marshall etc) starting point will be back and front of amp are open at the lower parts (above control and output/mains plate) with the typical expanded mesh found on valve amps. Top is also extensively open with mesh. Inside you would have a stand off aluminium reflector plate above the chassis (say 5mm above), this would have some thermal insulation board below it to reduce conduction into the chassis and hence internal components. It could have slight curvature like electric fire? Layout should space the power amp valves as well apart as possible. Aluminium plates fixed at the sides of amp to channel convection currents and minimise radiation transfer into transformers. Must dig out text book on thermal transfer calcs if I have a sleepless night.

While waiting you could always construct a cab using the suggested Eminence designs. Get local timber supplier to cut plywood to size, get nail gun and expanding polyurethane glue. Enjoy. If is sounds good (and should do) finish with Tuffcab and way to go.

Day job, 7:45 start, finished 6:30, 10 mins lunch, eating while working (the hours are just part of the job, no overtime here lol) Band cancelled this week and is my fault since job moved a meeting at one days notice. What is a bass, do I play one ? I do enjoy my job, it is rewarding, and is nuts at times. Some might call it a career/profession/vocation.

[quote name='Marvin' timestamp='1348566487' post='1815168'] Theory just describes what your ears are telling you play. Who honestly, when they are playing, thinks "I'm going to play an 11th or 6th now". It just flows on what you know sounds right falling off that fretboard. It should be intuitive because music is an expression of yourself, an art, not numbers, dots and squiggles. [/quote] I so agree with this, and yes I did know my scales and stuff once. These days it just pops out in my hands, I know what sounds right and wrong. Theory has helped me increase the amount of right notes I get in the stages before automaticity. Zen and the art of bass playing. Trouble is with age I forget chord structures of songs, crib sheets with big writing is the answer lol.

There are other notes? I am worried, what have I been missing....

[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1348398475' post='1813073'] .... I can't see how it could make a difference once you are fretting a note. What matters with a nut is that it is cut well. [/quote] Agree fully on this one. Metal nut might make the open strings sound similar to fretted (if they did not before).

Enjoy being young and talented, at the other end is being old and treated as if you are past it This is just as annoying. Perhaps there is a slot in the middle when you get treated at the age you are, think I missed that bit though.

Physicist at work here and bass player stunned by quality of Chinese Warwicks If the woods are of the same types and the construction is similar then some reasonable pickups could get you very near. When dealing with commodity kit (bolt on alder/ash/poplar body, maple neck) once the fit and finish are adequate it is only the electronics left to sort. Try some MM basses and see how they compare, are they x6.5 (approx) better sounding?

Is this a limited edition and rare thread? As I understand it there were not many of these threads made in the UK. Very hard to find and collectible.

I want one, now. The one bass I regret selling was my 58 EB2. The Precision I got to replace it was better, but this Gibbo has the 34" scale length. I want one now. Bass sales start soon.

Owning cabs powered by 3015LF and 3015 my advice would have been go with either. If you can, change order back to 3015. BF knows his stuff.

I have owned both, the 300 has the edge on clean headroom. The 300 was noticeably heavier to lift and carry. My Mk3 was bought new in 1983/4?, it is still going strong, although not with me. The only failure was the speaker about 5 years ago, the glue holding cone to frame gave up with age. Bought a 15" Eminence from this forum and it lives on.

Tried repairing Peavey B/W where the cone edging had lifted from the metal frame - age caused glue to fail. It was not a good result (I am pretty fair at repairs - usually) There is a good amount of info about how to recone available - shims to set voice coil in correct position seems to be the secret. What is blown? describe the damage - cone damage to paper can be fixed with varying degrees of success.

Decal surrounds / edges look unlike any Fender I have owned (4 from 1977) or any Fender I have seen (countless). Caveat emptor m'lud.

Seems to be no simple explanations of this in my experience. My most lively bass - acoustically and amped is the Kramer. It is also the heaviest by a long way. After that no obvious pattern, they are all just different. Have same with two USA 1990s Strats I have, they are so different in character.

My thinking was the stud inserts will have grooves / indents. PVA wood glue would set into these grooves / indents and wedge the inserts in. Should removal ever be needed they could be heated up and break the glue down. Agree - Araldite / epoxy combined with roughening the inserts - fixed for life.