3below

Plenty of Mwahh (by my standards) with TI flats on my fretless. YMMV

Had the Black Widow 15 on my Peavey bass combo fail, farty noises was correct description. Being 25+ yrs old the glue that held the cone to the frame had failed. You might get lucky and find that this is the same problem. Copydex, care, clamps and a wood batten are your friends.

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1330339776' post='1555780'] And another thing: the OP says the pad made a large difference when playing on a concrete floor. I have no doubt he believes it did, but perhaps someone could explain to me how the airborne vibrations from the bottom of a cabinet could cause several tons of hard, poured concrete to audibly resonate. [/quote] Barefaced Dubster, 4 ohms, Peavey Tour 700 700W @ 4 ohms, large school hall, and yes the concrete floor can be made to vibrate In another context, modern concrete floors floated on insulation board will vibrate, try jumping on one, you can feel the movement. Resonance ???, maybe in a spare 5 mins I will do the maths of Chladni plates with constrained boundaries, then again red wine is calling.

'String proper' around machine head has never caused any problems on my basses, is the gauge on these larger than previous etc, just thinking 'nut' problem? especially since I have struggled to sort out a Yamaha BB which turns out to be nut problem.

Just noticed price..... should be able to get for less times are hard

Had Peavey MKIII bass combo for about 25 yrs (I think), reliable 100%, heavy, I thought sound was pretty reasonable with Precision, Rickenbacker and finally G&L. Later had 300 combo.... loud and heavy. Seem very cheap for what you get. As ever try before you buy. [edit for spelling]

Peavey Tour into Barefaced Big One - I was more than happy. Into Barefaced Dubster is just immense, I can make concrete floor at work vibrate Sound good imo as well.

As with Rasta, if there is anyway it can be fitted to Warwick Corvette I am up for one. Corvette has four knobs, two vol, one blend, one tone, and dinky pots. When I am back home I will measure diameter if that helps.

Quite a few basses seem to use small diameter pots and in the case of my Warwick Rockbass the larger CTS pots will not fit. Choice may be a good thing here ot the option above, board only.

If the base plate on the lightweight ones is too small, cut larger one from plywood, drill suitable holes and cable tie on if in a hurry.

[quote name='subrob' timestamp='1333754440' post='1606227'] Whatever i can get away with, without it cutting out incessantly *grumbles* [/quote] Mine cut out, I found the problem. There is a thermal protection thermistor(I think) near the power supply. It is a disk shaped component that bridges two pcb boards and is mounted in turrets. It was not soldered in to one turret (push fit I guess). Soldered it in, no cut out problems again.

BB300, 1980s (I think) very beat up, but is superb bit of kit, solid and with a bit of fettling is on a par with my G&L and the USA precision I owned from new in 77. The plus is it was only £100 - result. Is almost cheaper to wear these basses out than have refrets on high end instruments.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1333561908' post='1603654'] Consider it is the amp that makes the tone not the valves. Modifying the preamp circuit and amount of gain is going to make far more difference to the punch and grit. [/quote] Fully agree, read Merlin's books, [url="http://www.freewebs.com/valvewizard/"]http://www.freewebs.com/valvewizard/[/url] then get modding.

Biased viewpoint here.... get those TI flats on any one of your basses And, for Gary Mac... TI flats on my G&L SB1 immense, no shortage of harmonics /treble when needed, can do the Andy Fraser EB3 sound with it, clean hifi, a fair approximation of the Ric 4001 I once owned. They last forever, 7 yrs + on SB1 so despite initial £££ they work out cheap in long run. Big plus is zero fret wear as well.

Many years ago I 'upgraded' a 1958 EB2 to 1977 Precision. Wish I could downgrade back to the EB2, is the one bass I miss. Unlike horses, cars, wives, girlfriends, etc basses do not consume money. If you can afford to keep, keep. You will only regret it later.

500V should be ok. Remove power tubes, clean contacts, inspect closely, may be worth changing any suspicious valve bases. I have found JJ tubes pretty good. Then again my Sound City and Marshall still have original (as far as I know) Mullards in and are still good to go .

[quote name='jakenewmanbass' timestamp='1263897689' post='717569'] Hi Steve, I've had a DB in a micra so I'd be very surprised if you couldn't get it in a mondeo. Jake [/quote] Same here