3below

I think we should get to see the rest of the bass

They look good, look in keeping with 'vintage' repair

Here's one I made earlier. The old surface layer chiselled off easily with no significant damage having previously sanded back the edges to prevent 'chip out'. With the wood looking quite reasonable I just went for sanding and tru oil. The logo is a vinyl sticker, it will do until I find something better, there is a 60s similar screw on logo on ebay at the moment, at a price :(. Whilst cleaning up and restringing the bass (the set on it were the original Roto Tru Bass strings, at 42 years old they lasted well) I noticed (for the first time!) that the marker dots are at 3,5,7, and 10. When I made that build blunder I ended making a new fretboard. Thanks to @Andyjr1515, @AndyTravis, @Maude for suggestions and advice.

Ebay (again) digital vernier calipers, about £5 - 6. One of the most useful and essential tools in my woodworking kit Accurate measurements of the posts, holes, inner and outer diameter of the bushings will help considerably. Play in the posts seems quite common even with new tuners which I find quite surprising from an engineering point of view.

Following on from @Matt P excellent suggestions, the word model made me think of model engineering clubs. Within that world you will find people who can knock up new bushes based on the existing one, probably for minimal cost as well. Sadly, as I am now a gentleman of leisure, I no longer have access to such facilities and people who could do these type of jobs on the side.

Those are some nice vintage tuners, the EKO ones (which you are welcome to) are cheap tat (20:1 ok when new, now just worn out). I would be trying to keep the Framus as original as possible. An engineering workshop would be able to turn some replicas for you (at a price). Solution 1: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224073512235?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item342bd2752b:g:6xgAAOSwPCRfBwLd&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4NearL6bnYd%2B0DgvFGQ15a6Pn1HstEsOm2Kc%2FxvsQSf9uZnzewTwQagYpTM5LLvqTaRyRkYpcZItJwTychIRsCt%2Fv9y6trbBTTmtonphU6%2FWWG939bNUC%2BOZl78UN5AWfG%2FWL7yAqgV%2FA7fOFPF1QTbbH7og1WKZLGwqTRPtzU9g4105srHTiVS7K5Udn793hnI5SCc7vTaJxFrR4PcYuUx%2FxNZ94%2Bay757zZLydyAbWvHc6X96Dpa7DAGn1joVWbwJ039t8iDg14kylvOnxAd%2FjcZazPdM6IEPV%2FvP7AYhF|tkp%3ABFBMzJuU3ZVg You would need to enlarge the bushing hole to 14mm, but they look like bushes and being sintered bronze will last a lifetime. Sensible price. Solution2: (downside is they are not cheap, it seems they will do custom sizes/shapes) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192939815778?chn=ps&var=493125108022&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=493125108022_192939815778&targetid=&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007449&poi=&campaignid=16789158644&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9300845&merchantid=7148914&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmuiTBhDoARIsAPiv6L-D7YCiawoyLsZqRzRdEEDQlS7CjEq1Woxi5ec4ALSIWNDpPc8PqdgaAsalEALw_wcB Although the holes only go up to 8mm it would be easy to choose suitable size hole and drill (or ream) it out to the required 9mm. You could then glue on either: M13 washer (ebay again) with the collar slightly proud, or m9 washer with the collar flush. Hope this helps.

Just measured the push in bushings I have spare, no go, these are 12mm bush and 10mm shaft (Eko bass from 1980ish). Do you particularly need to keep the old machine heads? If not I would be tempted to increase the 13mm hole to 14mm and use modern small Schaller/Gotoh/Hipshot/copy types. If you do this there are some blunders that can be avoided - experience is a good school. There are possible other workarounds, I have various spares that can be donated free gratis. Pictures would really help.

Are you looking for the press in type or screw in type. If it is the screw in type, is it the thread on the inside or outside of the tuner type? Help might be available

As a (now retired) physicist /engineer I rapidly analysed the many variables in this problem. I quickly reached a simple conclusion. Just play it where you get the tones you want

Corrected that for you

Careful what you wish for, it could be done

The 'break' angles and friction where the strings exit the bridge to the machine heads will make for interesting tuning issues (unless there have been modifications). I think I will give this one a miss....

Great advice from @AndyTravis and @Andyjr1515, I am on the case and await developments. I had thought of enquiring at Brandoni guitars (they bought vast amounts of Eko parts), but they are on hold at the moment: " Due to the untimely passing of Mr Roberto Brandoni, we will be temporarily suspending all our business activities."

Have owned this from new in 1980 and used in various folk bands over the years. Time to give it some TLC, it has sentimental value rather than actual £££. Two questions for the collective wisdom and advice of BC a) The headstock plate has disintegrated (age / sunlight, not impact damage). It appears to be a transparent plastic plate, painted black on the back. The EKO logo is a metal foil affair stuck onto the underside of the headstock plate. The missing bit is MIA many years ago. The finish on the neck is thick polyester? and likely to chip out. My thoughts are a) score and file carefully around the headstock plate and eventually remove it minimising damage to the edge finish. Replace with something e.g. maple and suitable EKO transfer (I do not hold out much hope of getting an actual metal foil logo or headstock plate) or b) simpler solution, make a 'cover' to glue over the damaged bits. or c) find someone who can replicate the old one. b) Although it is well built (solid top, neat bracing etc) it was built down to a price. The back binding is simply painted on. This has bugged me for many years, how feasible is retro fitting a plastic binding? What do we think?

Bought a set of Trubass strings from @Moose. Excellent deal, great communication and the strings arrived faster than a fast thing. Many Thanks.

Nice plugs, there is nothing quite like a good solid plug

Practice runs in scrap timer are an excellent idea😊

Useful reading https://www.projectguitar.com/tutorials/instrument-building/router-basics-simple-soapbar-pickup-routing-r72/

'Sellock roll pins' will yield results on *bay or your local engineering factors. Drive it out with a hammer and a piece of round bar the same diameter as the hole. It should go back in OK as well. This thread is really useful since I am also pondering the same issues with my Clifton EUB.

Does this mean that the stated pre amp output of 0dB in the Sansamp RB1 manual is almost meaningless? The manual not indicate whether it is dBu, dBV or dBm and we now know it has maximum output of ~3V rms. The manual states "The standard output level range of the SansAmp RBI is 0dB due to the popularity of digital recorders, which are unforgiving to excessive input levels. This prevents overloading the input of a digital recorder.", Is it the case that that the 0dB figure is the capability we just "have to know" it can do far more? My background is Physics / Engineering not pro audio. As said above, the flashing clip limit LEDs does suggest that the problems are after the power amp (I missed the clip LED statement, read the op too fast).

Looking at the manuals (and from experience from sometimes using a similar setup) I think you are on the money. Sansamp has 0dBu output, QSC requires +3.5dBU input for max power at 8Ohms (the 2450 is +4dBu, next column in the manual in small print). 0dBu means the Sansamp maximum output will be 0.775V 3.5dBu means that the QSC requires 1.16V to give the maximum output (as stated in the manual) Thus on paper the Sansamp is only providing about 66% of the maximum input required, hence the low power output. However..... in a 2015 Basschat thread about the same issue https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/272772-best-power-amp-for-tech-21-sansamp-rbi-preamp/ Tech21NYC stated ".....we have been through this numerous times on the Talk Bass forum years back. We even measured our RBI's output to duplicate Crown's test specs. These are the results: With a -10dB 1kz sine wave (which is what Crown uses for the specs) (.3V rms which is an instrument level signal) and all the EQ controls on the RBI set flat, output level at 3 o'clock and the blend off, the output voltage of the RBI is 3.6 V rms........." So I am now left wondering (or getting the test kit out).

Probably stating the obvious so apologies in advance. Wait until you have the plug / dowel wood in your possession before choosing the drill size. I have bought 10mm plugs, happily drilled away ready to plug, when they arrived they were 9mm or thereabouts.

Much good advice previously. Easy out first if getting a hole in the screw is possible. If this proves resistant you could try drilling holes around the screws with a 1mm / 1.5mm drill bit (they break very easily) to reduce the grip on the screw and then try the easy out again. If this fails try a partial core drilling, just deep enough to let you grip the screw with pliers or cutters. Finally if all else fails, use the full core drill. It is all fixable

Immense scale length on that bass