3below

Just needs a Telecaster style headstock

Phil Lynott - Vagabonds of The Western World, Andy Fraser - Free Live, John Entwistle - Live at Leeds. All of these have inspired me over my many years of bass playing, the tone, the technique. I might get there one day

Probably;y telling you the obvious, before you chisel down the grain into the 'belly cut', tenon saw plenty of cuts at right angles and just above the 'belly cut' depth / profile. This video (just one I found on YT, nothing 'special') gives you the idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2j57h3E3m4 This method prevents 'massive', ''unfortunate' splits along the grain etc, the kind of moments you do not want and makes it all easier. Apols if you know this and were going to do it anyway.

Probably too late for a 'helpful suggestion' ? The deed will have been done in these times of lock down?

One of my ex students went on a guitar building course with Ben. The resulting guitar was quite impressive, I learned a lot from what my student had picked up.

Bought a p bass pickup from Vinorange. Excellent transaction, communication and speedy arrival despite these strange times. Really well packed. Many thanks.

Where are you based? Somewhat important in these times.

With just the hex slot being rounded I would try the Stewmac tool (Or the diy version filed Allen key) first. Another variant is a flat blade screwdriver of suitable width inserted across the 'corners' of the hex slot. It may have sufficient 'grip'. You may need to file the screwdriver blade to size.

You say the nut is stripped, do you mean that the Hex part of the truss rod nut Allen socket is rounded? If that is the case then epoxying an Allen socket cap into the damaged socket might work. If you mean that the the truss rod nut just turns and nothing happens then @Manton Customs have given you the best ways forward. Extracting the truss rod requires "Lady Luck" being on your side. If the truss rod was welded 'cleanly, and /or the welds were ground smooth, and the truss rod slot is not tight, and the end of the rod is not wider than truss rod channel, the and the rod is sufficiently flexible, and the slot in the headstock is long enough then you might be able to grasp the rod with suitable long nose pliers and pull it out. You could get a garage to 'stud weld' a body pulling wire onto it and then extract it using a car body puller. There is one last scenario where you might get lucky. Low tension strings and the neck relief sets up ok without any adjustment needed

Your suggestion is worth a try if the price is right. Stew mac have a tool with a tapered hex for this situation. https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Truss_Rods/Gripper_Truss_Rod_Wrenches.html The video is worth looking at. With care and time you can make your own with a file / sharpening plate / stone.

Same issue with my Gibson SG bass and Hipshots. I made shims from strips of plastic cut from milk cartons. Perfect fit

There are also countless schematics available for pedals. Once you have a grasp of the basics, the schematics become highly educational.

These online resources are a pretty good starting point (and as a bonus are free). There are some mistakes in them, I do not know if these have been corrected, likewise I do not know if the answers are available online. (I finally retired from teaching last year and am now out of the loop). https://resources.eduqas.co.uk/Pages/ResourceSingle.aspx?rIid=937 https://resources.eduqas.co.uk/Pages/ResourceSingle.aspx?rIid=1179 and a 'real' paper book which I think is also a pretty good book. It appears now and then s/h at sane prices, it also appears at bonkers prices!. A Level Electronics Explained M W Brimicombe ISBN-10: 9780174483038 ISBN-13: 978-0174483038 ASIN: 0174483031 Finally, an A level website: https://reviseomatic.org/rOmV4/ HTH.

Also interested if the price is right....

I have the pickups to do this in my trove, are you pleased with the result?

I also did this modification with the same result :). Subsequently built my own replacement body (age 14!) using hand tools. It wasn't too bad (even allowing for rose tinted spectacles / things were better in the old days)

In the 70s, HH IC100 vs HH VS Bass amp vs Stingray bass amp, or my Hiwatt 200. Happy days.

Agree on probably wrong side of £££. Would it be a compound radius? I am just thinking about how I construct regular wood fret-boards. Plane board flat, glue onto neck blank, band-saw then router neck to tapered shape, hand tool shape back, finally sand radius on using radius block. It is a fixed radius. I would envisage starting with a 6 mm (?) thick stainless rectangular block. Mill the radius along whole block, then laser cut the neck profile narrow nut end to wide butt end of fret-board. Am now wondering about truss rods, neck relief and 'substantial' slabs of stainless steel so perhaps not a good idea. One thing to think about (based on my Kramer DMZ 4001) will be coldness to touch in winter. Stick bass in car, drive to gig, get bass out, it takes a while to warm up again. Even with the wood inserts the aluminium is 'cold' until it reaches room temp.

+1 to above, you could contract the fingerboard cutting and radiusing to a metal machining shop?

As long as you are getting around ‑20dBFS when you record everything should be fine. You can add more volume in the mix at a later stage whereas you can not remove distortion/clipping if you have recorded too 'hot'. This was the first hard learned lesson in my case. I find the Scarlett records my bass (and guitars) really well on the instrument input. Usually the bass just needs a touch of compression post recording and nothing else. Sansamps also work really well into the mic inputs for both guitar and bass.