3below

Where are you based? Somewhat important in these times.

With just the hex slot being rounded I would try the Stewmac tool (Or the diy version filed Allen key) first. Another variant is a flat blade screwdriver of suitable width inserted across the 'corners' of the hex slot. It may have sufficient 'grip'. You may need to file the screwdriver blade to size.

You say the nut is stripped, do you mean that the Hex part of the truss rod nut Allen socket is rounded? If that is the case then epoxying an Allen socket cap into the damaged socket might work. If you mean that the the truss rod nut just turns and nothing happens then @Manton Customs have given you the best ways forward. Extracting the truss rod requires "Lady Luck" being on your side. If the truss rod was welded 'cleanly, and /or the welds were ground smooth, and the truss rod slot is not tight, and the end of the rod is not wider than truss rod channel, the and the rod is sufficiently flexible, and the slot in the headstock is long enough then you might be able to grasp the rod with suitable long nose pliers and pull it out. You could get a garage to 'stud weld' a body pulling wire onto it and then extract it using a car body puller. There is one last scenario where you might get lucky. Low tension strings and the neck relief sets up ok without any adjustment needed

Your suggestion is worth a try if the price is right. Stew mac have a tool with a tapered hex for this situation. https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Truss_Rods/Gripper_Truss_Rod_Wrenches.html The video is worth looking at. With care and time you can make your own with a file / sharpening plate / stone.

Same issue with my Gibson SG bass and Hipshots. I made shims from strips of plastic cut from milk cartons. Perfect fit

There are also countless schematics available for pedals. Once you have a grasp of the basics, the schematics become highly educational.

These online resources are a pretty good starting point (and as a bonus are free). There are some mistakes in them, I do not know if these have been corrected, likewise I do not know if the answers are available online. (I finally retired from teaching last year and am now out of the loop). https://resources.eduqas.co.uk/Pages/ResourceSingle.aspx?rIid=937 https://resources.eduqas.co.uk/Pages/ResourceSingle.aspx?rIid=1179 and a 'real' paper book which I think is also a pretty good book. It appears now and then s/h at sane prices, it also appears at bonkers prices!. A Level Electronics Explained M W Brimicombe ISBN-10: 9780174483038 ISBN-13: 978-0174483038 ASIN: 0174483031 Finally, an A level website: https://reviseomatic.org/rOmV4/ HTH.

Also interested if the price is right....

I have the pickups to do this in my trove, are you pleased with the result?

I also did this modification with the same result :). Subsequently built my own replacement body (age 14!) using hand tools. It wasn't too bad (even allowing for rose tinted spectacles / things were better in the old days)

In the 70s, HH IC100 vs HH VS Bass amp vs Stingray bass amp, or my Hiwatt 200. Happy days.

Agree on probably wrong side of £££. Would it be a compound radius? I am just thinking about how I construct regular wood fret-boards. Plane board flat, glue onto neck blank, band-saw then router neck to tapered shape, hand tool shape back, finally sand radius on using radius block. It is a fixed radius. I would envisage starting with a 6 mm (?) thick stainless rectangular block. Mill the radius along whole block, then laser cut the neck profile narrow nut end to wide butt end of fret-board. Am now wondering about truss rods, neck relief and 'substantial' slabs of stainless steel so perhaps not a good idea. One thing to think about (based on my Kramer DMZ 4001) will be coldness to touch in winter. Stick bass in car, drive to gig, get bass out, it takes a while to warm up again. Even with the wood inserts the aluminium is 'cold' until it reaches room temp.

+1 to above, you could contract the fingerboard cutting and radiusing to a metal machining shop?

As long as you are getting around ‑20dBFS when you record everything should be fine. You can add more volume in the mix at a later stage whereas you can not remove distortion/clipping if you have recorded too 'hot'. This was the first hard learned lesson in my case. I find the Scarlett records my bass (and guitars) really well on the instrument input. Usually the bass just needs a touch of compression post recording and nothing else. Sansamps also work really well into the mic inputs for both guitar and bass.

Use it. If it self destructs wait until a cheap s/h 15" appears on this chapel. I replaced my done for BW with a £25 'Fender' 15" bought in this parish. It was better than before, very unscientific approach, no T/S parameters, measuring cab volume, no changing port length and/or size, just luck

You might want to check how well the speaker cones are glued to the chassis. Check of they are loose, can be lifted with up from the chassis. For about 25 years I used a Peavey bass combo (bought new) fitted with BW speaker. At the 25 year point the combo became very 'farty' in a gig. It transpired that the paper cone was no longer glued to the chassis in any serious way. It is fixable with an appropriate glue e.g. Evostik, PVA, copydex, thixofix. Do it sonner rather than later, I damaged mine terminally. Also check if the speakers have some 'foam' in the magnet as a 'dust trap'. In mine this had disintegrated with age. Equally well it could just be a loose speaker, check they are well screwed against the baffle, it could also just be a vibrating panel. Vibrating panels can be cheaply fixed with cross bracing using cut down broom handle glued in. See Bill's post https://www.talkbass.com/threads/adding-bracing-to-a-cabinet.876201/

I was extremely mortified at the time. The crack of the fingerboard as I tweaked the truss rod will not be forgotten in a long time.

You might (and it is a big might) get lucky (it will be a lot of luck) with the truss rod. Depending on how it has been installed and the type, some dual action rods can be pulled out and a new one pushed in. Try gripping the truss adjuster with some small nosed pliers and see if it will pull out. In my bass and cbg build I have tried by judicious routing to ensure the truss rod can be pulled out in the event of a breakage. A good luthier should be able to get the fingerboard off, plane the twist out (or other suitable fixes), replace the rod and re-affix the fingerboard for not too much money. Good luck with it, you have my sympathy, you might imagine how P***d I was when I broke the fingerboard on my G&L L1505 with the truss rod compressing the wood inside the neck.

Worst case scenario, get a replacement neck made. I can highly recommend Jon Shuker, there are many good luthiers about.

^ as above I seem to make most basses sound pretty much the same. Not sure what I do to them.... When I get to the volume needed to deal with play with a drummer any tone subtleties (real or perceived) with different bridges (or even £ vs £££ basses) are lost.

Just need to purchase the upgraded recordings. All the bass tracks have been digitally enhanced to himass bridge sound rather than BBOT bridge sound.