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3below

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Everything posted by 3below

  1. Probably not I did mail them with the above suggestions a few years back. Polite but bland reply afair.
  2. This ^, and I have a Leeds in my possession. It is seriously good, it curbed my gas for owning a Hiwatt 200 again.. I wish they did a Leeds Deluxe (i.e Leeds version of VT Deluxe).
  3. Records really well when plugged straight into my Scarlett interface.
  4. Seems that Andy Fraser was not a great bass player then. At least I now know that for all these years I have misunderstood what being a great player is....
  5. Bought some TI Flats from Paul. Excellent transaction, arrived next day despite these extraordinary times. Many thanks.
  6. Like trains, they come along I have also missed several sets recently and 'got lucky' this time.
  7. Just like a previous transaction (many years ago now), spot on. Bought a P bas pickup from Lee, it arrived quickly (considering these strange times), really well packed. Great communication. Top chap, deal with confidence.
  8. Nothing new here, some USA Standards circa late 80s and into the 90s were veneered tops e.g. US Telecaster Plus. I spent considerable time avoiding buying a Tele with this 'feature' ). Until recently I had an Ash Strat, beautiful thing, would be a custom shop body in today's world. I also needed a body building course, it was a boat anchor.
  9. Just needs a Telecaster style headstock
  10. Phil Lynott - Vagabonds of The Western World, Andy Fraser - Free Live, John Entwistle - Live at Leeds. All of these have inspired me over my many years of bass playing, the tone, the technique. I might get there one day
  11. Probably;y telling you the obvious, before you chisel down the grain into the 'belly cut', tenon saw plenty of cuts at right angles and just above the 'belly cut' depth / profile. This video (just one I found on YT, nothing 'special') gives you the idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2j57h3E3m4 This method prevents 'massive', ''unfortunate' splits along the grain etc, the kind of moments you do not want and makes it all easier. Apols if you know this and were going to do it anyway.
  12. Probably too late for a 'helpful suggestion' ? The deed will have been done in these times of lock down?
  13. One of my ex students went on a guitar building course with Ben. The resulting guitar was quite impressive, I learned a lot from what my student had picked up.
  14. Bought a p bass pickup from Vinorange. Excellent transaction, communication and speedy arrival despite these strange times. Really well packed. Many thanks.
  15. Where are you based? Somewhat important in these times.
  16. Hard to say, string choice and amps nowhere near as good then (1974) as they are now. Mine had a chrome cover (flat, thick, heavy, nickel plate? , with a plastic shim under it) not a deep pressed one like yours. I remember measuring the output of the pickup using an oscilloscope (Physics degree), 1.5V pk-pk on the E string. It had the baritone switch, two post 'bar' bridge and reverse wind machines. It was very 'bassy' even with Rotosound Swingbass strings. The frets were soft, 3 years of 2+ gigs per week wore them down in no time. It was a very well built bass, solid, dependable and really well made. I miss it... (probably missing my youth lol) but we all have basses we should have kept.
  17. I had a sunburst early (Orange label) EB2 in my youth. Such a well built bass. This is a stunning example.
  18. With just the hex slot being rounded I would try the Stewmac tool (Or the diy version filed Allen key) first. Another variant is a flat blade screwdriver of suitable width inserted across the 'corners' of the hex slot. It may have sufficient 'grip'. You may need to file the screwdriver blade to size.
  19. You say the nut is stripped, do you mean that the Hex part of the truss rod nut Allen socket is rounded? If that is the case then epoxying an Allen socket cap into the damaged socket might work. If you mean that the the truss rod nut just turns and nothing happens then @Manton Customs have given you the best ways forward. Extracting the truss rod requires "Lady Luck" being on your side. If the truss rod was welded 'cleanly, and /or the welds were ground smooth, and the truss rod slot is not tight, and the end of the rod is not wider than truss rod channel, the and the rod is sufficiently flexible, and the slot in the headstock is long enough then you might be able to grasp the rod with suitable long nose pliers and pull it out. You could get a garage to 'stud weld' a body pulling wire onto it and then extract it using a car body puller. There is one last scenario where you might get lucky. Low tension strings and the neck relief sets up ok without any adjustment needed
  20. Your suggestion is worth a try if the price is right. Stew mac have a tool with a tapered hex for this situation. https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Truss_Rods/Gripper_Truss_Rod_Wrenches.html The video is worth looking at. With care and time you can make your own with a file / sharpening plate / stone.
  21. Same issue with my Gibson SG bass and Hipshots. I made shims from strips of plastic cut from milk cartons. Perfect fit
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