3below

Bought a phone from Martyn. Excellent communication, super rapid posting and arrival. Deal with confidence.

Still use my Peavey PA, with a QSC power amp it is pretty good. I suspect the DBX driverack has some effect Guitarist has Peavey subs, they are up for sale, for some reason (weight...) they do not seem to be selling even though cheap.

Can highly recommend Jon Shuker. Amazing fingerboard, truss rod replacement and stainless frets job on my G&L L1505, Better than when new. I had an incident with the truss rod and the fingerboard parted with the neck. PMd.

In 1977 I bought a spanking new Precision bass. The one in the advert seems to be very different in so many ways, so much so that I would stay a wide country mile away from it.

HAd the MK3 combo and then 300W version. Used the Mk3 from 1982 until 2008/9 ish. Bomb proof, fixable (though nothing went wrong on mine) other than the glue that held the speaker cone to the frame gave up (as did the foam insert inside the BW speaker magnet). If the cabinet was large enough (and ports suitably modified) these would be something else with an Eminence 3015 speaker. The only reason I gave up with them was the weight. Side handles an excellent improvement.

That is just so 'gutting' and upsetting. there are some very unpleasant people out there. Hope you get it back.

I would always use a discharge tool or at the very least check what (if any) voltage they are showing with a multimeter set to highest range voltage.

a. Longer than you think.... well designed kit will have a 'bleed' resistor to discharge the capacitor on power down to aid safety. Resistor failure and/or dielectric absorption may give you a nasty surprise b. Discharge through a resistor and led or the 'proper tool' e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ANRIS-Discharger-Protection-Electrician-Discharging/dp/B074PQF6GC - you can make your own. c. or, as my colleague took great joy in demonstrating, put a screwdriver across the terminals with a direct short circuit (he was/is braver than me, even assembled a bank of capacitors for extra effect ). Let's be careful out there ...

Unfortunately Bill I have done this one once was enough...

An eminently sensible suggestion

If you are ok with a soldering iron this is an easy DIY job on a vintage amp like this (usual caveats about safety etc, possible damage to other components caused by the failure). If there is minimal damage other than the capacitors it should not be expensive if taken to an amp tech. The capacitors are inexpensive, components.

I have also bought a 'new' bass from my reputable local music shop, a G&L 1505. It was / is a very nice example. Made in 2005/6 sold in 2017 and it really was new, unused and with all the case candy present etc. I was happy with the price and the deal so all is well. I just wonder how much NOS kit is out there, where do these basses reside, how do they emerge?

I might go about this in a different way. Plane the neck down at the heel, glue on a suitable length of maple (or whatever). Re-shape heel to fit the singlecut neck pocket. Downsides: refinish neck, where is the truss rod? In reality this would be a 'neck too far' for me.

LOL, you must have heard my bass tone... mine with the Gibbo bass is instant Jack or Andy.

Having owned he real things - 100W and 200W Hiwatt in my youth I am more than happy, it is close enough. With my QSC GX7 it is also way lighter than the originals, but I do have a hankering.

I am also very enamoured with my Leeds pedal. I just want a Leeds Deluxe, please.

Depending on how diy electronics you are, the following website looks useful. TR1 and TR2 are TO92 packaged BF423 about 12p each. Lots of good pics and even better ,big pcb tracks and full size components. Repair heaven https://www.circuitsonline.net/forum/view/121282/1?query=doe+hand&mode=or Output mosfets can be found, they seem pricey or modern alternatives https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/9502-j50-k135-mosfet-replacments.html https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ECF10P20-ECF10N20-BUZ900-BUZ905-PAIR-TRANSISTOR-TO-3-SOLD-IN-PAIR-/192263936928 it will be £45 to £50 for two pairs. Sorted, this will be an amp for life let me know if you want to send it to a good home....

Super looking bass, I am very envious. Let me know when you want to move it on The HMT has the 'pointy headstock'.... why? who in their right mind would make a pointy/ hockey stickheadstock guitar (apologies to any pointy headstock lovers, just not my cup of tea).

Not a supertwin but two older BF cab experiences. BF Big One followed by BF Dubster (which I have used for about 8 yrs? and still do). With both of these I have been more than happy with the tone I get. Both have needed plenty of Watts, I am currently using a QSC GX7 power amp to drive it - allegedly 1200W into 4 Ohms. Getting what I want for tone has not been quite as 'plug and play' as the Hiwatt and Marshall into 4 x 12s of my youth but the weight reduction and volume available without speaker flapping / destruction are beyond compare. edited to change font to something readable in size

Very nice, it has made me want to get the Warwick corvette fretless out

I have built a fearful 15/6/1 clone in conjunction with Shermann audio who did it as a one off / explore the possibilities. It is a seriously good cab, however it does have an appetite for watts, I find 700W into 8 ohms adequate.

In the same mob, Snudge played a 57 Telecaster with a Tweed bassman. Awesome.Coincidently Bootsie's real name was Alfie Bass.

Wait until you have the TI flats on before hitting the wallet. I will be surprised if you do not find a what you want with the standard pickups. TIs are my string of choice on a diverse range of basses. Used on my Gibson SG bass I can get serious low end thump through to twangy-clanky.