3below

The Warwicks are in this parish. Wait until a good condition German corvette appears at the £350 - £450 mark. Can't go wrong for the money.

Bought various 6 string Fender USA bits from them (when prices were sane). Reliable and good quality at the time.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1478799464' post='3171770'] Hi I'm sure that there will be many great suggestions (for what it's worth I've been very impressed with the reasonably priced DiMarzio P pickup) but the Squier P bass is a perfectly acceptable framework to put a decent pickup into... [/quote] +1 on this. From personal experience with basses I own, the DiMarzio approaches the G&L MFD P bass type. Both pickups have plenty of output and do the business. Both of these pickups have greater output than some active basses I own, they also have considerable tonal palette with a simple volume / tone setup. Add to the list: Entwistle P bass pickup (Neo)

EB2 will hopefully be hard to move on Ebay / Gumtree / Preloved etc since it is now known on BC. As above there are not a vast amount of them about. have Cash Convertors been told and is the serial number known? Good luck with recovery, some people

[quote name='ash' timestamp='1478637596' post='3170563'] [url="http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/131997420784?_mwBanner=1"]http://m.ebay.co.uk/...784?_mwBanner=1[/url] Opinions? Looks like a car crash bass to me! [/quote] Well adrift of the quality of my 1970s JB EB3 type bass (long since departed from my care). Build quality is not a phrase that springs to mind looking at the pictures. Car crash? more like a train wreck. My £500 will be better used elsewhere.

Sufficient time to build the drum shells then Crack on .......

[quote name='Twigman' timestamp='1478539451' post='3169727'] i was window shopping at Thomann yesterday...I had 3 items in my basket...I left it last night at £187...this moring I thought sod it I'll buy...went to checkout...price jumped to £232... had to decide that was too much....so didn't bother...now frustrated [/quote] Might be worth trying again in a few days. Some businesses have demand / interest led pricing in which the price changes. A well known online bookseller (and everything else these days) is a particular proponent. I have seen the same with a tool supplier when I purchased a bandsaw, it went up by £5 overnight.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1478461656' post='3169209'] Yes - I agree, 3below. I also look forward to finding out how it should be done Certainly got no idea at the moment! [/quote] I was relying on you for this one It is time someone invented 'perfect finish', you just spray it on after 80 grit sanding, it self levels, fills large flaws, does not run and sets in 1 hour (ideally less) and repels dust (small insects, dog / cat hairs etc). After the hour a quick buffing with T cut or similar results in a gloss finish that is rock hard yet impervious to dings. Perfect finish is a one coat solution. In other news I just saw a flying pink pig pass over the garden.

My first tactic would be purchase a sanding detail stick (aka fret dressing / crowning stick £5 tops), masking tape or fret protector strip and a short length of straight metal (you can purchase a fret rocker if you want). Remove strings, adjust neck to flat and crown frets spending a bit more time on any that are 'high'. It is unlikely that there will be any major issues on a bass of this quality. Put strings back on and adjust truss rod, saddles and neck shim if needed (there are many good setup guides on youtube). It really is an easy DIY job and with a sanding detail stick you can not do any significant damage. If this does not work then Grangur's advice is on the money. At that point it is a matter of cost - benefit - how much do you like the bass (unless you can diy level and recrown).

It will be 'interesting' getting the finish inside the curves. I look forward to finding out how it should be done

Am thinking that the issue was how much wood was left above the wing cut outs etc. The answer is above from Beedster. As for DIY bridge adjustment it depends on how much your action needs lowering. Three to four mm I would go for it DIY personally. With my DB I spent £12 on a replacement bridge (Chinese maple) and fettled it based on the original one (my original bridge was 'buckling' and increasingly of no use).

Best advice is wait until one appears for sale on BC. Not that long ago one appeared on an Epi EB bass here for very sensible money, they do appear regularly. With the supertone, the allen screws that lock the saddles laterally can present sharp edges to your palm. Fit them from underneath and the problem goes away.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1478378054' post='3168776'] That's looking really nice [/quote] Thank you Thinking about finishes, which you did reply to previously on your EB3 type build. I am aiming for brown (like your LP Junior) - Chestnut brown mahogany spirit dye?

[quote name='scrumpymike' timestamp='1478371565' post='3168735'] Well done! IMHO W machine-head alignment suits headstock design. [/quote] Thank you, I could run a BC poll lol

Slightly better pictures

Fair progress with good technique today. Only one design blunder that I would do differently next time. Tried 3 times with this photo, poor quality image Neck pocket is super fit, better than anything USA made that I currently own Time well spent on constructing template and much improved router skills. I pondered leaving the pocket in old Fender style, i.e. loosen neck to access truss rod. Decided not to, ho hum hence the design error, truss rod adjusting rout way too big for what is required. Looking like a bass now. design error now stylishly covered, totally intentional. Laminations, set square and careful centre line measurement get the machine heads in line. Extra care taken with drilling following Andy's helpful lead in this aspect Choices now, traditional machine head layout or W style? Finally the moment of truth, string alignment with bridge. Have my measurements, centre line and 'skill' produced something that aligns correctly? Amazingly the answer is yes

This chancer is so far adrift of the ethos and spirit of BC.

Are the black lines in the body finish or actual 'cuts' through the body ?

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I use the very same strings on several short scale basses. Particularly impressive (to my ears) on my SG bass.

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1477861137' post='3164926'] Here's [url="http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/summit-ergonomic-fret-cutter.html"]a link[/url] to the best on the market [/quote] Surely this: £24.99 bargain, however I have found it leaves marks on the fingerboard if you are not careful. In all seriousness it is surprising that the 'defret' pedal does not exist.

How DIY are you? Self build e.g. steel frame, timber cladding could reduce costs considerably. If you are using a concrete slab floor I would strongly suggest getting it made to current building regs standards with insulation. The difference with a fully insulated building is quite staggering - I do not need to use the heating in my south facing 'hutch'.

Before undertaking wholesale stripping, try some paint stripper under the pickguard, see what happens. I have a body that was so resistant to paint stripper and the heat gun that I gave up. Another possibility would be to key the existing finish and spray onto that. Again try in an inconspicuous spot first just in case that the paint reacts. Others who have much more experience will be along soon

Onwards progress and another unforced error Body sides routed to template using the 2" down spiral bit (a 'serious' cutter). Only one small tear out (my fault whilst waiting for the router to spin down ). I was able to lose it with a bit of judicious template adjustment. Round over on the top went well apart from some cutter scorch marks. Will try slower router speed next time however I have had this problem with Oak before even at slowest speed. Round Over on the back went well until I forgot to stop at the jack socket hole (which I had thought about and planned to hand profile similar to where the binding ends on the unmentionable 4001 bass). Needless to say the roundover bit wandered into the hole. Repair section let in which should hide reasonably well when I stain the body 'dark brown'. Body now sanded to 180, sides all level with router ripples removed. Time to get my new toy out, Veritas cabinet scraper and remove the planer - thicknesser ripples. So many things I will do differently on the next incarnation.