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[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1468488334' post='3091223'] In my Tesco it does. Brown and bruised Vs Nice and Yellow - no contest. Sorry, I'm not helping am I? [/quote] What is wrong with reliced bananas?

I will enjoy reading the sound review after dinner

[quote name='Pow_22' timestamp='1468394925' post='3090581'] Out of the above id go either Marshall or SC120 amps, cabwise it would have to be the marshall. Barefaced just don't do anything for me, never tried a BFM or Shermann [/quote] The marshall cab was built like the proverbial outhouse, the weight of them is something else. It would survive heavy touring

If you provide the internal dimensions of the cabinet, the current port diameters and lengths, you will find that others will be along with suggestions based on the modelling software.

Ladies and Gentlemen, choose your weapons: Amps: Marshall VBA 400, Sound City 120, Peavey Firebass 700, Peavey Tour 700. Cabs : Barefaced Big One, Barefaced Dubster, BFM Omni 15 and Shermann Audio 15/6/1 (think Fearful 15/6/1) (common denominator Eminence 3015LF) and finally an old school Marshall 2x15 DBS7215 [b] [color=#222222]What was your choice? Having had all the above in my possession nearly all at once (don't ask), the Tour 700 is my first choice with all the above cabs. The VBA 400 was loudest by a long way, immense amounts of bass, The Sound City a closest second (these are obviously subjective). The key deciding factor for me was the 'tightness' / 'control' / 'woolliness' of the bass. With all the cabs above the solid state amps were much more to my taste. [/color][/b] I am not saying solid state is better than valves, far from it, what I would say is you must comprehensively try before you buy. Most valve amps are not cheap these days (unless you get lucky - my Sound City was and I still haveit ) and the market is harsh.

Snobbery? As others state, surely the 'compleat bass player' will be able to do it all. At one time I could use a plectrum reasonably well, these days (idleness etc) I am very lacking in that ability. I regard that as a weakness in my current playing.

As suggested by several others you will be surprised how much fret wear can be resolved with levelling and re-profiling before a refret is needed. If this is a long term keeper / investment you may want to think about using flats to minimise the fret wear.

Do not be worried about the screw spacing on the baseplate. Measure the screw hole separation and post here. See what suggestions arise. If the screw spacings are not a direct replacement just remove the old bridge, glue dowels into old screw holes, drill new pilot holes and you are good to go. Wilkinson do some very nice Fender style bridges for about £13 (as do fender).

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1468271466' post='3089801'] THAT'S what I wanted to hear! [/quote] +1

Annoying I have done the same with my USA telecaster. I am much more careful when I solder now. Weirdly I recently dented the same Telecaster on the body 'shoulder' by the neckplate. How I did that I have no idea. Many years ago my daughter aged 2 or 3 managed to knock another USA guitar off a stand and consequently it has a great dent on the front where it impacted something. Red solid finish so the white undercoat shows through. Have subsequently sold daughter. If you are brave.... you can fill and level these dents /marks with superglue, wet and dry etc. I have fixed natural maple neck chips / dings this way. I also sorted a dent in a sunburst finish by the same method. You can of course make it worse in the effort. YMMV.

20 mm/s is a pretty impressive cutting rate. Apart from the upfront capital costs I can see many advantages of laser cut for sheet work, not least no dust (other than initial down size from 8 x 4), no blade sharpening, much less edge fettling etc. Any thoughts of selling flat pack BFMs?

I thought I had dome well getting industrial bandsaw, table saw and various other bits of kit past swmbo. Laser cutter of this size will present a challenge Having no experience in this field, how long did the actual panel cutting take in total?

Yes, own stupidity Amazed no injury since it was a fair drop, might have have been due to influence of alcohol. A gig that will be forever in my memory for a whole host of wrong reasons, we were young and foolish

Should be finished by Sunday afternoon at this rate

From experience with some of my kit: If you are keeping existing pickups the Artec is really good value for money. With EMGs you may not need a pre-amp, the passive tone control on my JJ set actually seems to have some effect.

Really like the idea of laser cutting the panels I will be interested to know how you get on with PU adhesive and the staple gun. My attempt looked good but I found the joints lacked strength. I resorted to tacking with staple gun followed by clamping whilst glue set. Did you ever 'dispose' of the unloaded J15s?

[quote name='Bassman Sam' timestamp='1467927349' post='3087453'] Really? Any links? Not surprised though. It seems to me that Angus is the controlling one . Look how he treated Brian Johnson after all these years of service. [/quote] No links, no reality, just a thought based on what has happened with many bands at the end of the line.

Borrowing a plot previously shown elsewhere Brian and Cliff will start AC/DC regenerated / rectified / full wave / 3 phase or whatever. There will then be prolonged legal battles between all parties upon which ten years later a sell out re-union tour will be needed to pay the legal costs.

Bassbunny gets the prize for the winning solution

Marshall VBA, epic performance, though I moved mine on due to weight and age (and I preferred my Peavey Tour 700) . Simple controls and British made. Hiwatt Dr103 / 201 originals. Epic price, epic performance. British made, premium quality. Fender Bassman 100 / 135. Simple, classic, easily repairable, sane weight. Not British. Possibly lacking power in these days depending on what context you play in. Plan b. Sansamp VT deluxe and a class D poweramp. Simple and flexible with the 6 stored sounds.

If none of the above work, you may be able to drill it out and then use an 'easy out' or allen key driven into drilled grub screw to remove the drilled grub screw. Drilling this accurately with a 2 or 3mm bit will require a pillar drill. Simpler answer as suggested is new saddle. Post a picture and some dimensions, you might be surprised what people have in their spares boxes

A well sorted cheap bass is a thing of pleasure. Great satisfaction of getting good tone and playability for cheap as chips money, sort of an anti-bass

[quote name='butlerk02' timestamp='1467061456' post='3080951'] OK. Thanks guys. Still no idea how much to sell it for [/quote] Difficult one May be worth more split up just to throw complexity into it, what are G12/50s worth on ebay? Greenbacks (the 25w?) seem to fetch staggering money, I remember building a pa using them circa 1974. They were cheap and worked well in a low power (miniscule by today) band.

[quote name='LayDownThaFunk' timestamp='1467062076' post='3080964'] I use a 900w head running at 4 ohms into a Schro 2x12 at half volume. You guys must have really quiet drummers... [/quote] Guitar players using 20W and 30W valve combos. Drummer like a fit version of keith Moon which is why it took 700W into the 4 ohm Barefaced Dubster. We had a dep drummer in the Charlie Watts mode, a much more pleasant experience which hastened the band demise and saved my hearing