3below

Super skill with the control plate and a nice touch using purfling / strip to take the saw kerf up. I feel the need to bring my 335 type bass to you for some cosmetic fettling in the bridge area.

JAN3 seems good, I fitted one to a W that I bought that had suffered the JAN2 broken tabs. Am not sure the brass version is worth £££ more. Cheapest price I found on JAN3 was from Australia, go figure

Same seller has a Rockbass Corvette at an eyewatering BIN price. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Warwick-Corvette-5-string-rock-bass-guitar-/222185740093?hash=item33bb4d573d:g:h8UAAOSwygJXhptN

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1468786114' post='3093332'] Yes, I agree - a fully rearward bridge is a must. The best example of that is the Cort Curbow - looks and feels like a short scale and is, in fact, the full 34" Interestingly, this is one of the issues faced with the semi-acoustic (ie the other new project just started). The bridge placement and resulting neck placement actually makes it pretty impossible to reach the first fret... [/quote] I have a 335 / EB2 long scale that verges on that same problem. Then again I am only 5'3" and have short arms It does balance fairly well though. The mahogany looks stunning btw.

Currently owning an SG bass and thinking a long scale version would be rather nice I have given some thought to the neck dive issue. My thoughts were move the bridge as far back as possible and possibly lengthen the body slightly. A few inches gained this way would certainly help with the balance in addition to lightweight tuners etc. Even with the timber cut as shown in the pictures there is some length gain still available. Look forward to seeing the build

Do you have access to a luthier near to you. Get them to look at the cracks and give a diagnosis. My initial feeling from the pictures is that I would not describe it as EX condition.

Truss rod buzzes usually sorted by adjusting truss rod. Tighten slightly, or if this fails, loosen rod, give neck a gentle push in the middle whilst holding headstock then retighten rod. If this fails I am with Grangur on this one, it is something else. One of my Warwicks has a seriously irritating buzz on unfretted A. I know it is the truss rod cover and one day will sort it, one day soon

6 Ohms is quite OK. Solid state amps will just deal with that, problems start at low impedance. Some solid state amps will deliver down to 2 ohms, others get a little unhappy with less than 4 ohms. As I understand it, if you have an impedance mismatch with valve amps a speaker impedance less than amp output impedance is preferable (e.g.speakers 6 ohm, amp output 8 ohms). The 'rated' / 'quoted' impedances are not exact since they change with frequency (and quite significantly around resonance). With only 2 ohms difference between 8 and 4 with your 6 ohm cab I would not worry about it, but then again it is not my kit. If you want a 4 ohm 2 x 15 bass cab that is virtually indestructible my advice would be sell the Peavey and add your proposed replacement driver expenditure to that. Use it to buy a BF Dubster or Vintage. It will be (IMO) far more cost effective and someone else has done all the design work for you. Biased viewpoint, I have a BF Dubster and s/h it cost less than the drivers it contains.

The build speed is seriously impressive. Makes me tired just contemplating it, however it also makes me think I must do something with 3015 Kappalites and two sheets of 9mm birch ply I have in my parts store

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1468488334' post='3091223'] In my Tesco it does. Brown and bruised Vs Nice and Yellow - no contest. Sorry, I'm not helping am I? [/quote] What is wrong with reliced bananas?

I will enjoy reading the sound review after dinner

[quote name='Pow_22' timestamp='1468394925' post='3090581'] Out of the above id go either Marshall or SC120 amps, cabwise it would have to be the marshall. Barefaced just don't do anything for me, never tried a BFM or Shermann [/quote] The marshall cab was built like the proverbial outhouse, the weight of them is something else. It would survive heavy touring

If you provide the internal dimensions of the cabinet, the current port diameters and lengths, you will find that others will be along with suggestions based on the modelling software.

Ladies and Gentlemen, choose your weapons: Amps: Marshall VBA 400, Sound City 120, Peavey Firebass 700, Peavey Tour 700. Cabs : Barefaced Big One, Barefaced Dubster, BFM Omni 15 and Shermann Audio 15/6/1 (think Fearful 15/6/1) (common denominator Eminence 3015LF) and finally an old school Marshall 2x15 DBS7215 [b] [color=#222222]What was your choice? Having had all the above in my possession nearly all at once (don't ask), the Tour 700 is my first choice with all the above cabs. The VBA 400 was loudest by a long way, immense amounts of bass, The Sound City a closest second (these are obviously subjective). The key deciding factor for me was the 'tightness' / 'control' / 'woolliness' of the bass. With all the cabs above the solid state amps were much more to my taste. [/color][/b] I am not saying solid state is better than valves, far from it, what I would say is you must comprehensively try before you buy. Most valve amps are not cheap these days (unless you get lucky - my Sound City was and I still haveit ) and the market is harsh.

Snobbery? As others state, surely the 'compleat bass player' will be able to do it all. At one time I could use a plectrum reasonably well, these days (idleness etc) I am very lacking in that ability. I regard that as a weakness in my current playing.

As suggested by several others you will be surprised how much fret wear can be resolved with levelling and re-profiling before a refret is needed. If this is a long term keeper / investment you may want to think about using flats to minimise the fret wear.

Do not be worried about the screw spacing on the baseplate. Measure the screw hole separation and post here. See what suggestions arise. If the screw spacings are not a direct replacement just remove the old bridge, glue dowels into old screw holes, drill new pilot holes and you are good to go. Wilkinson do some very nice Fender style bridges for about £13 (as do fender).

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1468271466' post='3089801'] THAT'S what I wanted to hear! [/quote] +1

Annoying I have done the same with my USA telecaster. I am much more careful when I solder now. Weirdly I recently dented the same Telecaster on the body 'shoulder' by the neckplate. How I did that I have no idea. Many years ago my daughter aged 2 or 3 managed to knock another USA guitar off a stand and consequently it has a great dent on the front where it impacted something. Red solid finish so the white undercoat shows through. Have subsequently sold daughter. If you are brave.... you can fill and level these dents /marks with superglue, wet and dry etc. I have fixed natural maple neck chips / dings this way. I also sorted a dent in a sunburst finish by the same method. You can of course make it worse in the effort. YMMV.

20 mm/s is a pretty impressive cutting rate. Apart from the upfront capital costs I can see many advantages of laser cut for sheet work, not least no dust (other than initial down size from 8 x 4), no blade sharpening, much less edge fettling etc. Any thoughts of selling flat pack BFMs?

I thought I had dome well getting industrial bandsaw, table saw and various other bits of kit past swmbo. Laser cutter of this size will present a challenge Having no experience in this field, how long did the actual panel cutting take in total?

Yes, own stupidity Amazed no injury since it was a fair drop, might have have been due to influence of alcohol. A gig that will be forever in my memory for a whole host of wrong reasons, we were young and foolish

Should be finished by Sunday afternoon at this rate

From experience with some of my kit: If you are keeping existing pickups the Artec is really good value for money. With EMGs you may not need a pre-amp, the passive tone control on my JJ set actually seems to have some effect.