3below

Should be finished by Sunday afternoon at this rate

From experience with some of my kit: If you are keeping existing pickups the Artec is really good value for money. With EMGs you may not need a pre-amp, the passive tone control on my JJ set actually seems to have some effect.

Really like the idea of laser cutting the panels I will be interested to know how you get on with PU adhesive and the staple gun. My attempt looked good but I found the joints lacked strength. I resorted to tacking with staple gun followed by clamping whilst glue set. Did you ever 'dispose' of the unloaded J15s?

[quote name='Bassman Sam' timestamp='1467927349' post='3087453'] Really? Any links? Not surprised though. It seems to me that Angus is the controlling one . Look how he treated Brian Johnson after all these years of service. [/quote] No links, no reality, just a thought based on what has happened with many bands at the end of the line.

Borrowing a plot previously shown elsewhere Brian and Cliff will start AC/DC regenerated / rectified / full wave / 3 phase or whatever. There will then be prolonged legal battles between all parties upon which ten years later a sell out re-union tour will be needed to pay the legal costs.

Bassbunny gets the prize for the winning solution

Marshall VBA, epic performance, though I moved mine on due to weight and age (and I preferred my Peavey Tour 700) . Simple controls and British made. Hiwatt Dr103 / 201 originals. Epic price, epic performance. British made, premium quality. Fender Bassman 100 / 135. Simple, classic, easily repairable, sane weight. Not British. Possibly lacking power in these days depending on what context you play in. Plan b. Sansamp VT deluxe and a class D poweramp. Simple and flexible with the 6 stored sounds.

If none of the above work, you may be able to drill it out and then use an 'easy out' or allen key driven into drilled grub screw to remove the drilled grub screw. Drilling this accurately with a 2 or 3mm bit will require a pillar drill. Simpler answer as suggested is new saddle. Post a picture and some dimensions, you might be surprised what people have in their spares boxes

A well sorted cheap bass is a thing of pleasure. Great satisfaction of getting good tone and playability for cheap as chips money, sort of an anti-bass

[quote name='butlerk02' timestamp='1467061456' post='3080951'] OK. Thanks guys. Still no idea how much to sell it for [/quote] Difficult one May be worth more split up just to throw complexity into it, what are G12/50s worth on ebay? Greenbacks (the 25w?) seem to fetch staggering money, I remember building a pa using them circa 1974. They were cheap and worked well in a low power (miniscule by today) band.

[quote name='LayDownThaFunk' timestamp='1467062076' post='3080964'] I use a 900w head running at 4 ohms into a Schro 2x12 at half volume. You guys must have really quiet drummers... [/quote] Guitar players using 20W and 30W valve combos. Drummer like a fit version of keith Moon which is why it took 700W into the 4 ohm Barefaced Dubster. We had a dep drummer in the Charlie Watts mode, a much more pleasant experience which hastened the band demise and saved my hearing

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1467057859' post='3080910'] ..... I used to use a BF Compact a while ago, and although it's a more powerful cab than what I use now I sometimes found myself pushing harder than I do now. It appears that my new cabs give me the sound I want more easily. It's their voicing. ............ [/quote] The voicing aspect is worth exploring. The 'clean' / 'uncoloured' / whatever you want to call it sound I get from BF cabs can result in me creating large spls without realising it close to the cab (700W non class D amp). Usual giveaway is the floor vibration (concrete raft) or band members telling me so. Conversely I recently bought a 15W Laney practice amp, this is also surprisingly loud but does not deliver the low end in the same amount (not surprising). How did I cope with 4x12 and Hiwatt 100 (before that HH 100, Vox AC 50), in the 1970s/80s, more so when guitar players were using Marshall / Fender / Hiwatt / Orange 100 watters.

The plus is you have a well built cab made from quality birch ply. Used at sensible volume it will withstand heavy road use and last a lifetime. Added bonus, they also look very good with a DR103 or DR201 on the top

I will add to the more speakers route. Small rig is Shermann 15/6/1 custom build (previously BF Big One). Big rig is Barefaced Dubster. The increase in output with the Dubster is very noticeable. In the interests of pseudo scientific fairness, all cabs have the Eminence 3015LF 15" bass driver and I use the same amp..

<Bodge Alert> If you can get the 1/4 inch socket on the truss rod nut then you may be able to insert an appropriate size flat head screwdriver blade into the 1/4" drive socket (ideally across the diagonal). You will be able to do this at an angle that clears the truss rod 'trench' </Bodge Alert> Dad3353's suggestion reminded me of the bodge method.

You may need to get the Gibson adjusting tool mentioned by Ikay previously. P Plan b. 1/4 socket universal drive or flexible drive Plan c. Cut the box spanner down. The length wants to be about t0 / 15 mm shorter than the truss rod 'trench' (this will allow easy on and off the truss rod nut). Drill two sets of staggered holes at 90 degrees some distance away from the hexagonal part of the spanner. Use a hole diameter that will let you insert a short bar (or Phillips screwdriver) to rotate the box spanner.

[quote name='DanOwens' timestamp='1466846623' post='3079288'] I didn't get a clear explanation as I got the impression that diagnosing the problem would have been the costly bit. [/quote] Might be worth finding a hobby electronics person / friend who can look.

[quote name='DanOwens' timestamp='1466793751' post='3078965'] I have a Hartke A35 that I put in storage for a while and on taking it out, discovered a fault. I sent it to an amp tech who said there's a fault on the board that wouldn't be worth fixing. [/quote] As this is a low power amp it will be fairly straightforward and low component count.The Tech can locate the fault, I just wonder what can be so wrong that it is not worth fixing? Did you get a clear detailed explanation?

Not an EB2 user these days (had one in my youth, long gone) but use my SG bass a great deal. It came with Pyramid golds on - these were instant Jack Bruce / Andy Fraser. Due to a slightly odd E string imbalance (to my hearing) I change to regular TI flats (long scale). I really like these, with that bass they give a great compressed thick tone, plus plenty of 'twang' if needed. OTOH TI flats less successful on an Aria Pro II LP style bass I have. In my EB2 days I ended up using RS66 swingbass most of the time. They devoured the frets in no time

The unmentionable John Hall bass. I used a 4001 for about 8 years in a very successful ceildh band. It was the late 70s early 80s If the EBMM works stick with it. You could always go to the dark side and get the big acoustic double thingy

Having owned the real thing (100w and 200w) in the late 1970s I find the Hiway 100 and 200 models are fairly sound. They remind me of what the real thing was like. I wish Tech 21 Sansamp would do a Leeds deluxe pedal - or even better a bass deluxe pedal. This would have SVT, Hiwatt, Marshall in one bank, Fender Bassman, Acoustic 370 and something else modern / clean in second bank. Covers most bases or basses

Camera bags? Laptop bags as mentioned above - my last two name brand laptop bags, bought used but like new for £2 or so at boot sales.

Good news above I was about to suggest the other possible DIY fix is with the power switch. Depending on the switch, you may be able to squirt a small amount of contact cleaner into it. The other strategy is to replace the switch.

[quote name='JoeEvans' timestamp='1466026066' post='3072950'] If you get hooked, at some stage you are going to want to spend £2k+ (+++) on a decent solid wood bass, perhaps an older one that has settled in properly and been well set-up. When that day comes, you are going to want to spend a few hours in a room with a good number of nice old basses, trying them all to see which one is really right. But to choose the right bass, you need to be able to play the damn thing reasonably well, so that you can get the best out of them and see if they can make the kind of noises you like making. So you need a temporary bass, good enough to get your skill level up but cheap and battered enough that you can do pub gigs without getting stressed, and not new so that you can sell it for something close to what you paid for it after a year or two when you buy the really nice bass. On that basis you might look for an older Czech or Hungarian plywood or solid top bass for under a grand - Golden Strad, Boosey and Hawkes 400 or similar, maybe. [/quote] +1 on this advice. You might also find that you have the initial enthusiasm, get reasonable (or even good) then as with many things interest diminishes. Every so often I get fired up with my DB, use it a fair amount, then get fed up with lugging it around (with car so not a real effort). At this point I realise I bought fairly well: hybrid Czech bass in fair condition at a fair price. I will have had my money's worth when I move it on, will not lose and have enjoyed it.