3below

As always, some parts seem quite straightforward, others much more subtle and involved. I am surprised how similar the frequency spectrum (harmonic content) of basses are. My Warwick Corvettes, fretless and fretted (with same strings) are remarkably similar and not that different to Gibson SG. Re-learning university mathematical Physics is an interesting experience 36 years later, so much I have forgotten .

[quote name='McBass' timestamp='1462533758' post='3043816'] Long shot, but does anyone know of a DAW plug in that'll make and electric bass sound remotely like an upright? My hands won't handle an upright due to tendonitis. [/quote] At the moment I am exploring some solutions to this end, possibly leading to the 'Uprighter' pedal. To date I have sampled my various basses (fretted and fretless) and double bass. Fourier spectrum and envelope analysis points the way forward. I have also identified some problems that require further thought.

[quote name='Tim Chapple' timestamp='1462809553' post='3045831'] Still more fun than a "which bass is best for metal?" post though right? [/quote] Someone will have to step up to the plate. Cometh the hour, cometh the question: "Which castors are best for metal?"

pmd

You could try emailing Peavey support in USA. I have found them to be excellent, to give an example I enquired about the heater current available from a 1980s valve amplifier transformer. Answer (and other useful information) came back very quickly. You could also try the Peavey forums. If you were closer I would offer to take a look and see what might be awry.

You will need a mesh cage over those exposed ports Porting upwards into the space where the head was could be a 'cool' solution. Is there sufficient space and length?

[quote name='jimbartlett' timestamp='1462254913' post='3041422'] I had a look after you posted this and they do stick out slightly but I've never noticed a problem. I must have hard skin on my hand due to the original bridge �� [/quote] My delicate palm and soft hands I suspect it was one of those thing that once noticed becomes irritating. The solution for Hipshot is quite simple and applies to all their saddles of this type.

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1462224858' post='3041330'] At least once a fortnight a thread about string recommendations [/quote] Had not factored in string choice in the Barefaced A-Z. Serious omission which will be addressed in volume 2

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1462135484' post='3040589'] Yes might be a good idea. [/quote] Then again it might be better to ignore my advice and take advantage of Phil Starr's rather more scientific offer

Next construct plywood port cover (e.g. 5" x 5" square), and screw this down so that it can be rotated to cover the port varying amounts. Try different port blocking until you find the optimum tuning that removes the booming. At that point screw the port cover down.

[quote name='taunton-hobbit' timestamp='1462129075' post='3040518'] A - My handles have never fallen off........... B - 2 x Dubsters........ .......wanna fight?........ [/quote] Having one Dubster in my possession, I am at a loss what are you using 2 x Dusbters for? Stacked or V plated ?

Just to finish H - Averse to HEFT ™ I - of weak mental disposition J - financially challenged K - unable to use strap handles L - do not like loud clear bass M - using the wrong basses N - sonically challenged O - unable to admit your other poor purchases P - a bedroom player Q - using your existing cabinets as part of a body building regime R - deluded by the advertising of other manufacturers S - not using a flat EQ T - in a highly lucrative endorsement deal with another organisation U - underpowering your cabinet V - misguidedly worshipping false cabinets W - locked in the 1980s 1990s 2000s 2010s using a smiley EQ (circle as needed) X - in need of scuffed / torn tolex for the RnR look Y - wanting a 'Fridge' since everyone uses a 'Fridge' because 'Fridges' are cool Z - thinking that 10s and 12s are too fast compared to 15s and 18s Choose reasons to suit own situation from the above, please feel free to add other reasons I was tempted to add 'Free of GAS' as a possible choice, however this seems so improbable and is thus a negligible value choice.

With my Supertone bridge (Gibbo 3 point) I found the grub screws that lock the string spacing stuck out ever so slightly resulting in 'sharp' edges. Solved by screwing them in from underneath. Not as adjustment friendly but much more gentle on the palm. I did raise this (and a solution) with Hipshot.

High Excursion Fundamental Trouserflap

Top money

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1461828428' post='3037884'] It's Peavey BW is the Black Widow series of speakers, Peaveys best and still up to decent modern standards.You can also replace all the working parts in a single basket change. Parts are still available and it's a simple DIY job. The only problem is that you can buy a new speaker from Eminence and the like for the same price or less. I've found that BW speakers o this vintage have problems with the adhesive used to make them breaking down. The dust cap dome in the middle of the speaker can partially come away and the cone can separate from the corrugated surround. It can be successfully stuck back together with Copydex. Have fun [/quote] Exactly my experience with the BW combo. Unfortunately I terminated my BW speaker in a gig when the glue failed on the cone. It was replaced with a 15" Eminece (s/h ex Fender) with no thoughts about Thiele-Small parameters, port sizes etc. It continued to sound good. I used it from 1983/4? until about 2008, many gigs (including University rag balls) and it was faultless.

[quote name='pfretrock' timestamp='1461842932' post='3038066'] Wire a jack plug to a jack socket with 2 short lengths of hook up wire. Connect in line between bass and lead. Connect capacitors to taste. Saves messing around inside the cavity. Keep soldering iron well away from body (yours and the bass). Yes report back, unless you get the black smoke. [/quote] Even better solution Even stranger I am teaching A level Electronics today.

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1461837806' post='3038004'] The simple test, as mentioned above, is to just do it; connect the capacitor between the o/p jack 'live' connection, where the pre-amp signal is connected, the other end to earth. This will not explode the pre-amp, and will cut some signal, depending on the frequencies being played. If you like it, solder it in place. If it doesn't please, try other values until you find one that does what you want. Report back here in case of problems, success, black smoke or howling feedback. [/quote] +1 Dad3353. As a variation, you could make up two wires with croc clips on the ends (better still, borrow these - e.g. find a local school science teacher). Affix these to the jack socket ring and tip connections. The other ends can be used to investigate which capacitor you want. There are many other 'test rig ' possibilities (as mentioned in the earlier thread).

Without finding a schematic for the amplifier, I will make an educated guess that the boost circuit is a simple capacitor / resistor combination that is engaged by pulling the potentiometer out. Some possible faults in no particular order:[list] [*]defective potentiometer - it has a poor internal connection when pulled out [*]defective solder joint on one of the potentiometer terminals [*]defective solder joint on the capacitor and or resistor used in the 'bass boost' part of the circuit [*]defective capacitor and or resistor in the 'bass boost' part of the circuit [/list] Re-reading your description I am tending towards the first fault in my list. It may only be contact oxidation and you might even get a fix by squirting some contact cleaner (e.g. Servisol) into the afflicted potentiometer.

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1461789961' post='3037743'] Initially just wrap the legs around the signal and ground wire at the output socket and see if that gives you the effect you want. [/quote] Sound non invasive advice (pun unintended) and this follows on from what was established in the previous thread.

[font="arial, helvetica, sans-serif"]On another line of enquiry, "[/font][font="arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][color="#000000"]Four10 - only 30 years late to the party!", I make it 45 years late to the party, although not like for like the Fender Bassman 10 4 x 10 50W (later 70W) bass combo appeared in 1972 - 1982. From my ownership of two BF cabs I suspect the BF 4x10 is in a different performance league.[/color][/font]

[quote name='taunton-hobbit' timestamp='1461169902' post='3032153'] I'm not selling my Dubsters anytime soon........... [/quote] Where are you playing? I find one Dubster is enough for most demolition work (though in moments of power crazed madness I keep thinking is a 700W amp enough?)

Try some TIs, They seem to work ok on my Artcore 4 stringer and (and just about anything else I have). Wait until a used 4 string set appears on this parish and then pm me, I have the B string with very low mileage.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1461004785' post='3030589'] To be honest I hate the fact it's a copied design most basses out there look the bloody same because of it. And I dislike all these pseudo "custom" basses that look pretty much like a p or jazz apart from the headstock. Try coming up with something original eh! It's fair enough pickup placement and other essential hardware bits, but having the near enough the same body shape, the same pick guard and control plate etc is so boring. The only basses that should resemble a p bass or jazz is a Fender or Squire. [/quote] Agree that many basses look the same. Once you start building a 'two horn' type bass everything looks a bit similar in the body department. It is a case of function over form. Another example (loosely) is the Gibson Thunderbird shape which could conceivably be traced back to the Telecaster - just 'push' the upper body back.

+1 to ikay