3below

Based on the 6 degrees of separation theory, through BC we should be able to track him down. The first inductee into the BC hall of fame / shame?

Had a Rockbass Corvette fretless 5 stringer. Quality 10/10, sound 10/10, playability 10/10. Currently have Rockbass Corvette 4 string (Also have two german ones for comparison). As before on quality, sound and playability. The newer ones have the two part bridge, mixed blessing, the 'traditional' BBOT Fender bridge is more than adequate. [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] €[/font][/color]250 seems ok, try for [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] €200.[/font][/color] I like my German ones, the Chinese one is different but just as good and if it was stolen / damaged is of no consequence, replacement is cheap

You will not be disappointed. Nice to have the width to match the amp head.

To my way of thinking your plan is good. Your belt sander with some form of jig to help present the bridge square onto the sander seems a good way to proceed as you suggest. Some advice on Internet suggests that removing string tension (to remove bridge) can lead to soundpost moving (or worse, dislodging). I have no experience to judge this either way so would advise caution. Keep bass on back and do not move much until restrung. I have just purchased an adjustable maple bridge (with two! soundposts included, why?), Ebay £11 or so. Disaster is not the end of the world unless your bridge is very high quality etc.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1457637496' post='3000540'] .....As for the previous replies, they would be accurate if the Bassman was a SS amp, but it isn't. [/quote] Age and experience both of which I place myself in. Sense and sanity are another set of issues

Soft and flexible yet able to take hard playing - TI flats or Chromes. I am very partial to TIs, they last forever, > 8 years on one bass. With the durability comes the added bonus of getting them s/h via bc I have them on short, intermediate and full 34" basses. All is good.

The Elecord is sane money, Takamine TB 10 is divorce money and the Gibson EB750 is pretty much unobtanium (45 in total?). Time for messrs Chown or Whiteley to commission something suitable?

AX84.com, and Merlin [url="http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/"]http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/[/url] are good starting points. You can change the 12AX7 for a 5751 or 12AT7 valve (in UK money ECC83, ECC82, ECC81 - not sure without detailed looking if ECC82 is the equivalent of 5751). There is a whole world of gain out there [url="http://www.valveshouse.fr/gain-des-12ax7-12at7-12au7-12ay7-5751/"]http://www.valveshou...au7-12ay7-5751/[/url] Apologies it is in French but quite understandable (and google is your friend). Do not fork out on 'vintage' valves for 'tone'. I am not convinced how electrons passing through a vacuum shape 'tone'. Vintage Mullards, Pinnacle etc may well be better built, however pre amp valves are by their nature tough / robust.

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1457364393' post='2997783'] I'm sure I've seen a Gibson bass with that control layout. They did an SG guitar with a similar switch system on it. The neck pickup was definitely added afterwards & it looks like an old John Birch pickup to me. [/quote] Neck pickup is John Birch - my Birch 'EB3' had similar pickups. 'Interesting' price in my view.

Here's the useful tip Tie some fishing line or strong cord securely to the shank of the switch. Double strand, good length. Carefully undo the mounting bezel - this is where you slip and scratch the bass so use masking tape, cardboard etc. The switch can be brought out of the f hole and fettled. If it is an open mechanism Switchcraft type they usually 'fix' with some 'bending'. If not solder a replacement in and pull it back through hole with the cord. Wish I had known this when I fixed a semi for a friend in my youth. Plan A - take to tech guy also sounds good. Could you post a review of the bass when it is sorted, the price on Ebay was good and full hollow basses are of interest to me at the moment.

A long time since I played a gig that needed gloves due to the cold. Thankfully Just need Stephen Chown or Scott Whitley to commission something similar at a more accessible price point.

[quote name='SisterAbdullahX' timestamp='1456862292' post='2993038'] Down that path divorce lies...�� [/quote] +1 total agreement, it is about what matters. Stay married long enough and wear down resistance. Now what 2 x 18 cab was I looking at....

They look interesting, I would like to try one. Shades (just) of Gibson EB750 (just need to fit 2 x pickups).

[quote name='SisterAbdullahX' timestamp='1456861113' post='2993024'] Yeah, every time I play through a 15 I find myself loving it, yet when the time comes to buy a cab I always think better go for 10's. Just don't have the courage of my convictions! I seem to have been conditioned into thinking a 15 will always be lacking something..."what if I need a Marcus Miller tone at any point? 15s can't do that! Or what if I need more mids? They can't do that, better with 12s..." [/quote] Problem solved. Just succumb to GAS, have one of everything.

[quote name='taunton-hobbit' timestamp='1456833157' post='2992621'] I deliberately opted for Barefaced Dubsters (2x15) when they were a new(ish) model. They more than made up for my six Tannoy 15s, and I don't ever see me looking seriously at anything else (although the recently 'announced' Barefaced 18 sub might be fun)... .....stop it.....stop it now...... [/quote] Barefaced dubster here as well. I use it to stress test buildings and put loud drummers in their place. For smaller venues a Shermann custom build 15/6/1 Kappalite 3015LF. Both are adequate the 3015LFs do like plenty of Watts.

Have two of them The second was such a good price it seemed a waste not to. At one point I also owned a Marshall VBA 400 and was able to AB the Tour 700 and Marshall with my Barefaced cabs. I no longer have the Marshall, the bass was to my hearing and taste much 'tighter' and 'controlled' with the Peavey. The weight was rather more acceptable as well. I find the Kosmos feature of no use.

Much good advice above. The worst case I ever had of this caused much grief (and some stupidity on my part). The eventual cause was a 'duff' string.

Small hands here as well. Played Precision sized necks until 'discovering' narrower J style necks in the last few years. Youth helped with 34" scale basses and I was able to do the one fret per finger, thumb behind neck technique for many years. These days I am using my short scale bass much more extensively and a mixture of thumb behind neck and wrap over on E string. Conversely my EKO acoustic bass, 35" scale and neck like a large baseball bat (same width as a Warwick 5 stringer) is a pleasure to play. As mentioned earlier, find a bass that is comfortable and develop a technique that is effective for what you play.

[quote name='UglyDog' timestamp='1412604694' post='2570275'] [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFdas-kMF74[/media] The classic Alan Perry/William Gardner Orchestra recording of "Sailing By", as used by BBC radio for their late night shipping forecast, contains a fairly formidable bassfail -- a very [i]very[/i] bum note at 1:54, followed by a bar of "oh god, where am I?" chart-searching silence, and then back on the money. Once you know it's there, you're listening for it every time. [/quote] Now I am worried, how many times have I listened to this (since the early 80s in my case) and enjoyed it, but never noticed the bum note. How bad is my bass playing if I have not noticed this No answers please!

[quote name='timmo' timestamp='1455827345' post='2982833'] Sounds like the best mistake you have ever made. Perhaps we could get a crappy basschat bass just so we can sneakily get it delivered, then make out we are just selling a bass to fund a new one. What can possibly go wrong? [/quote] This has mileage, seems like one of the best moves I have encountered in a long time. Someone should organise a poll - what colour is the basschat 'deceiver' bass

I can find you some ex coppers (not sure if any play bass, one plays banjo), what speciality do you want? Firearms, drugs, child protection, miners strike, TSG, rural beat, 'rubber heels' or PPU? Any particular force in the UK required? Interesting user name Jack

Providing you have a suitable number of holes in the bass (body or scratchplate) this will be straightforward. The only issue could be 'strange' non-standard potentiometer (pot) values (as I found with an 80s Aria). What make is the pre-amp, a circuit schematic might be available which will make identifying suitable pots easy. If not, You may be able to read the resistance of each potentiometer printed on them, you may not. If not de-solder one of the outer wires on each of the stacked pots and measure the resistance between the outer two connections. Also measure the resistance between an outer connection and the middle with the pot rotated half way. This will identify a) the pot value and whether they are linear or logarithmic pots.

Keep the bass playing and BC going. Give up the stuff you do not enjoy. New interesting 'stuff' will emerge.